Are the mounts welded on or bolted? If they were bolted on you could possibly swap from either side and add a spacer plate or shim etc. Should bring it close.
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Are the mounts welded on or bolted? If they were bolted on you could possibly swap from either side and add a spacer plate or shim etc. Should bring it close.
I welded up some brackets to day and got it mounted. Still need to figure out how to mount my turn signals. It's not ready for any winching yet I need to add a few gussets for strength. I think with a little bit of tweaking I can straighten it up. It definitely wasn't built straight but I'll make it work.
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A tweak or 2 and a couple of hits with a mallet with bring it into shape. Have mercy on any fool that ends up on the receiving end of that bumper. Jeez this thing is lethal...
It looked the the po hit something with it on the drivers side. The center section is solid but the outside is kinda flimsy.
Haven't been driving it much lately since I've got a company truck I figured I'd better start it up an clear the snow off. It started right up it was a little cold natured til the choke opened but ran fine after that.
Any plans for a small winch on that beast of a bumper?
A decent come a long would pull one of these trucks out of anything ;)
A couple of pulleys and strops and you should be set up for most anything.
I have ideas for a rear mounted winch. Or maybe actually just keep a come a long under the tray with some tools
Haha I was in a raffle for a winch from a local 4x4 shop I was hoping to win. But probably gonna get a harbor freight special. Probably after the holidays I'll get it. And may have a chance to go test it out while clearing old logging roads on the farm.
A good quality used gadget will always trump a cheap new one :thumbup: Might be worth your while to rebuild an old one...Quote:
Originally Posted by 87junker
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Bought a winch and some lights for turn signals and hopefully I'll have it all on and and my stinger hoop welded on this weekend.
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Got my winch and stinger installed.
You plan on using your truck for rescue retrievals? That is some serious gear :thumbup:
I just plan on tinkering around the farm clearing old logging roads and not getting stuck.
Very cool dude. Makes the dealer option bull bars we had over here look like match sticks
You could give discount prostate exams with that thing too, you know, to help pay for new parts and stuff :lmao:
Oh, and it looks bad ass! :thumbup:
My wife says it looks obnoxious and I said I know I love it.
Some jackass in an SUV is going to back into it and take out their rear window :lmao:I'd opt for function over form any day of the week...
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It sticks out a little bit. I definitely get a lot of funny looks going down the roaroad.
A bit like a reverse tow truck!
Run some cordage from the hoop up to your headache bar. It'll lift up any tree limbs on the trail as you drive through
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Got a chance to do a wheeling in the woods. This little truck did awesome. Sloppy mud all the way up the hill dodging ruts (2 foot deep) the whole way. Just wish I had a little more clearance tagged a rock with the lower a arm. Center skid plates are already in the works. I'm definitely going to be installing an electric fan. Never pegged the gauge but to high for comfort.
Naw, just these pics.Quote:
Originally Posted by 87junker
She has come a long way in a short time :thumbup:
Still having some issues with timing. Especially when its cold. Seems like I'm having some kind of issue with vacuum advance.
Try disconnecting the vacuum advance and watch with a timing light as you rev the engine. Cold weather is here, maybe they used a heavy grease when lubing the fly weights in the distributor and it's sticking? Once warmed up things will move a bit easier. A handheld vacuum pump to check the vacuum advance will let you do the same thing.
I got to mess with it a little this evening. With vac line disconnected holding it at 2k rpm it barely moved to about 6-7 btdc. On idle it was at 5. With the line hooked up it's at 5* btdc. Holding it @ 2k rpm it was at 30+ btdc. Even after it warmed up really good it still tries to hiccup and backfire thru the carb. I feel like its advancing way too much.
Any tips on how to reduce advanced timing?
I think you have two problems but let others chime in as well. At 2k rpm i believe you should be seeing more advance from the mechanical advance. Base timing should be 7 degrees, at least on my 89. I believe your mechanical advance may be sticking. 30 seems a bit high for the vacuum advance, especially if your mechanical isn't engaging. When I replaced my distributor this summer, it was listed as working with a ram 50 or starion. The vacuum advance unit that came on the distributor was pulling way too much advance causing all kinds of pinging under light cruise. I had a new vacuum advance unit and I swapped it out and it was fine after that. There were numbers stamped on the arm of the vacuum advance unit. The distributor I believe came with a "12" and the new one I had on the shelf I believe was stamped "10". I'm guessing it's mm of pull, but I'm not sure. Someone on here who knows mitsubishis better than myself may have better technical information than that.
I would start by disassembling the distributor. Mark the gear with witness marks before pulling it off the shaft so that it goes back on the same way.
Check the mechanical advance linkage for any binding or scoring. Also, see if there are any numbers stamped on your vacuum unit. I'll see if I can dig mine out in the garage to confirm the numbers.
5* is where I've got it to run the best. I'll definitely take a look to see if I can find any numbers stamped on it.
I suspect it runs best at 5 degrees because the vacuum is over advancing it. The arm on the one that did not work was stamped 11.5 I measured the travel at 5mm, so i'm not sure what the 11.5 means. Maybe corresponds to a vacuum level to make it actuate? I may pull my distributor tomorrow to replace the distributor drive gear on the cam. I have been meaning to put it in for a little while now. If I do I'll pop off the vacuum unit and see what the numbers are that are stamped on the one that works well.
Is it the counterweights' actual weight in grams? :shrug:Quote:
Originally Posted by Giovanni89
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Not the best shots, but you can see the numbers stamped on the arm. When I installed my new distributor it ran like crap. Check to see if you have any numbers stamped on yours. 11.5 was no good. 10 runs great. Luckily I had the new advance unit sitting on the shelf. I had planned on overhauling the original dizzy, but I had a ton of wear in the mechanical advance that was more trouble than the cost of a new one.
Ah, ok. It's not what I thought - it's the servo linkage. Nup, doesn't help. Still haven't got a clue what it translates to...
I will definitely pop mine open to check it.
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Looks like 11.5 to me. Any suggestions where to find a 10?
Mine was from rock auto. Standard Motor Products VC268. About 15 bucks.
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My next project as soon as I get a free minute to install.
Say goodbye to overheating...Quote:
Originally Posted by 87junker
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Only had a little bit of daylight to tinker this evening.
Any luck getting your vacuum advance solenoid?
It's the next project on my list been cold and nasty and too many other priorities right now. But I will definitely let u know how it goes.
https://youtu.be/SF5GuW6QkZc
https://youtu.be/7r_ml1-x2ik
Finished wiring up the new electric fan. Everything seems to be working good. Gonna test drive it tomorrow to make sure. Seems to be moving some good air.
The old junker did great today. Usually by time I get to the farm (45 min drive) and go to climb the hill it's always running hot when i get to the top. Today it was still normal temp and stayed normal while pulled my brothers jeep Cherokee out of the mud. All without shutting it off to let it cool down. But I did find I'm in need of some rear tow or anchor points for sure.
I think you need to upgrade her status from junker to beater :thumbup:
Your truck is in a woeful state - and it still pulled a Jeep out of trouble... says lot don't it :)Quote:
Originally Posted by 87junker
Quote:
Originally Posted by geezer101
Its come a long way since I got it.
..and it's only now I've noticed you are already on PAGE 10 of your thread :shock:Quote:
Originally Posted by 87junker
Quote:
Originally Posted by geezer101
Well I believe I've jinxed myself..
Uh oh?
Transmission issues. I hoping it's the throw out bearing. Took it on the interstate since it was running good and a few mile of running 70 it started making a loud chattering noise.
Well let's hope this is all it is.
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not uncommon on trucks that see mud. Take a good look at the flywheel, friction disc, and pressure plate while you have it apart.
Well the fun has begun.
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Got the transmission out. Pilot bearing is iffy and the throw out bearing seems the same. Clutch looks brand new like the po said. Input shaft didn't have any play and it felt solid. I'm gonna get a new pilot bearing and put it back and see how it goes.
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Definitely replace the pilot bearing. Get a sealed bearing and avoid those with metal shielding. The sealed type bearings are more effective at keeping out water and dirt. I've had two shielded bearings fail due to rust. When they bind or seize, it can destroy the input shaft.
junker -- if your truck is still disassembled -- check the transmission input shaft bearing (if that's possible..?) My truck at 127,900 miles has a noisy bearing & read other guys had a similar problem at about 125,000 miles...
Just Passing this info along -- My skill level is changing crankcase oil & filter
It seemed tight no play back and forth. I didn't put a dial on it but very very little movement in any direction. But I just got it back in all I have to do is some electrical and some small bolts here and there and I'll be ready for a trial run.Quote:
Originally Posted by xboxrox
Sounds like good progress :thumbup:
Well back to square one. Same deal. Any tips on rebuilding a km-145 or just get the used v5m21?
Best of luck getting a good fix -- keep us posted, alright... I have much to learn, my truck makes a noise too depending on clutch in or out... All the clutch stuff was replaced new about two years ago (500 miles ago)... So I am thinking the transmission input shaft bearing is making noise with truck in neutral & clutch out...
Just picked up my different transmission from the junkyard.
Round 2 is off to a rough start. "NEW" deal for the transfer case front output was not new someone returned a used one to autozone and I ended up with it. But went ahead with reinstall sp far so good. Can anyone tell me what the 4th sensor on a v5m21 is? The other 3 are reverse, 4 hi and 4 low switches this one is on the driver side of transfer case.
Ok so I figured out it's called a pulse generator? Wonder if this will affect transfer case operation?
I don't have any experience with these trucks in particular in 4wd. Is it a manual shift or electric shift transfer case? I'm assuming electric shift. The pulse generator on other transfer cases typically looks at the speed of the output shafts. When the truck gets going over a certain speed (usually somewhere in the 50mph range) it will automatically disengage the transfer case and return it to 2wd. Another possibility is that it has something to do with the servo motor that actually shifts it in and out of 4wd, but in my experience that is typically located on the servo motor its self.
It's still a manual shift like the km-145 was that sensor is the only difference so far.
The pulse generator detects rotation of the front drive shaft and sends a signal to the automatic free-wheeling hub indicator control unit to turn on or off the "Wheel Lock" indicator in the gauge cluster. Its basically a sending unit and its function is strictly electrical. If not connected electrically, it won't impact the t-case's mechanical operation.
I figured it wasnt going to affect mechanics but thanks for the reply.Quote:
Originally Posted by FMS88
I just noticed the two shifters in the earlier picture... don't mind me :rolleyes:
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Good news is I drove it off the ramps bad news clutch pedal is super stiff and doesn't start to grab till it's all the way out. Need to adjust the clutch but the sound in the transmission is gone. now.
Make sure your clutch cable isn't garbage. I've been caught once or twice thinking the clutch was toast and it turned out to be a binding cable.
Well I found that the cable wasnt seated in the bracket fully so that was an easy fix. But... second gear is harder to find than big foot and the speedometer isnt working now.
Well still more fun. Took it ridge running and it got too hot. I think I'm gonna drill a hole in the thermostat to hopefully help with heat issues got a water pump on the way. Also the rear passenger brake is locking up and brake fluid has vanished not sure where its leaking no we spots visible hope it's not seeping into the brake booster. But other than that it's still running ok and me and second gear are friends now.
might be worth picking up a "block checker". checks for combustion gasses in the coolant. The crack in my jet valve head was so small that only under certain circumstances would it start to get hot. I drove it for over 10K miles with that cracked head before putting on a new non jet valve head. I also had the same electric fan. It would work in normal driving, but under heavy demand it couldn't keep up.
Drilled a hole in the thermostat and took it wheeling never got hot even while creeping in 4lo.
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Nice! My truck has always gotten up to about 220deg when started cold. then the thermostat opens and it drops down to 190. If the engine is shut off but still has some heat in it when I start driving again, it just climbs to normal temp. Curious if the hole in your thermostat will help that? Mind watching the gauge next time it warms up? How big a hole did you drill?
Hmm, interesting. There are bigger valve thermostats on the market but the bypass hole idea seems logical. +1 on making observations on your engine temps :thumbup:
Took it for a drive today just to get it out and it seemed to get hot enough to kick the fan on but by the gauge it was still a little cool. Ran fine and had normal power. But it did something different than usual when I shut it off. I normally have to stall it to keep it from dieseling today it just shut off like its supposed to.
Hmm, that can only be a good thing...
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Gave the ole junker a workout today. Hauled a 4 wheeler to the farm and added some wheel spacers.
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Been running with no front turn signals for a while figured I better get legal before I recieved a driving award.
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Finally got around to swapping out the vacuum advance valve so far it seems to have helped. I can run it up to 3-4k rpm and not lean out and feels like it has more power. I still might change a few jets in the carb to help with around 4500 rpm it gets lean.
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Finally got around to the water pump as well. Old pump seemed ok. I tried to get the impeller to spin on the shaft but it wouldn't budge but I went ahead and installed the new one. Took it slow out a back road it never got excessively hot. So fingers crossed it will stay cool now.
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Cheapo hood scoops are cool right? Either way the deed is done holes and all.
I was thinking about doing something similar but having it reversed so it acts like a vent rather than a scoop over the exhaust side of the engine to reduce heat soak. The problem is the lack of spare parts for Gen 1's. Chopping up a decent hood is blasphemy...