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Have to make sure you are using the right point on the Weber for the distributor vac advance or it'll be running advance all the time. If it was running before and it's set up the same, it's either picked up a vacuum leak and/or the ignition timing is off.Quote:
Originally Posted by BJH324JH
make sure u have 12v to carb solenoid, or they will idle like crap. Assuming cam & ignition timing are correct
The Weber only runs an electric choke. There are variants that have a fuel circuit cut solenoid but they are only found on a few OEM fitted European cars.Quote:
Originally Posted by dash
Found out manifold vacuum is fine for ignition advance, even preferable, as long as you don't need to pass emissions testing. They only started using "ported" vacuum (taking vacuum from juuust above the closed throttle butterfly) to improve emissions at idle. Otherwise, manifold vacuum will apply full vac advance at idle, keeping the engine cooler and smoother-running at idle and improving fuel economy. Source:Quote:
Originally Posted by geezer101
http://chevellestuff.net/tech/articl...r_manifold.htm
negative on that. My genuine redline conversion kit for toyota 3tc, definitely had the 'pencil-type' fuel solenoid 32/36Quote:
The Weber only runs an electric choke. There are variants that have a fuel circuit cut solenoid but they are only found on a few OEM fitted European cars
Connect just as oem toyota Aisin carb - one 12v+ for the solenoid, then the other thicker wire for the choke coil
Odd. Was it an add on to the kit? I can find the idle cut solenoid as a separate part (it replaces the primary jet) but no kits with it as a complete unit.Quote:
Originally Posted by dash
*it appears that the fuel cut solenoid is only specifically suitable for Weber 32/36 DGEV with 'big' primary idle jets (didn't know there were different designed jets...) :shrug:
32/36 kit came like that. I've never actaully seen a oem-apllication 32/36. Seen a crapload of holley 5200s tho. Look like same carb
strange call to help a buddy sort out a weird 16V corolla, as he knew nobody who'd touch the new Aisin-copy carb, his son bought online
I happen to have gaskets spares, that fixed the prob. Car started half a crank, drove/idled perfect. Surprised how peppy it was!
I thought.... why are folks paying $400 to 'adapt' a 32/36, if this little $80 direct fit gem, performs the way it does ??
Performance prolly deterioates with age? dunno..
Yeah the Holley 5200 is basically a clone of a 32/36 DGAV. I've seen Webers on Ford Escort 1.6's and pushrod straight 6's from factory, and I pulled a 34DATA from a Lancia (which is an oddball carb in itself) Wonder how much difference there is in installing a 5200 on something like a 4G52/54 or G63B...
I 'adapted' a 5200 to a nissan 2.4L pickup, that had some weird oem 3-bolt carb pattern.
made a plate from 3/8 aluminium/ Carb nos ebay ~$80 iirc. Got the job done
Owner said even if a weber 32/36 kit was avaiable, no way was it worth $400 to him
the Holley - Weber 5200 carb is an emissions carb with all kinds of wacky bits that can clog and go out of adjustment. Because of the complexity, many of the rebuilt 5200s are poorly rebuilt, and will run poorly. They will bolt to the same adaptors as the weber, but I have the same Weber on Geronimo since 1983, so is 300-400 too much for a good running carb?
same $400 question came to mind, after the recent rolla experience. Why ?
Car ran crappy. Needed a carb. $80 later (Aisin oem copy, Alibaba I think he said) = solid running/performing vehicle
I'd welcome any carb mitsu pickup that equalled that rolla. Will it last ? dunno. Mitsu version available ? Never looked.
early 5200 are not "emission carbs". Naked as any bare bones weber. Early 70s pinto 2000cc & chevy vega 2300, for eg.
Oem car warranty, so you know 5200 functioning & longevity had to be top notch. Now those later chrysler 5200s - whoa! Run
Point was.....
If you have the time, skill, knowledge... avenues open up. In essence, the sub $100 nissan/5200 carb job. $400... 'optional'
Idea only came to mind, remembering vega carb looked same as my rwd rolla 3TC $170 weber kit.. (then onto $450 mikuni sidedrafts)
Grew older/wiser. Turbo swaps made toooo much more sense. Overall cheaper, actually if diy. Performance difference.... a joke.
Figured out why the engine wasn't idling properly. :) It was a loose brass screw, tightened her up and now it idles. I guess vibration loosened it up possibly? Although, now it idles very high. A friend suggested doing a compression test. He said that can give me an idea of the work the engine builders performed. What kinda of results should I be getting on the compression test for my g54b engine?
Main thing is to look for roughly even figures across the board; a little variation is okay, as long as you don't have any cylinder(s) wildly off vs. the others.Quote:
Originally Posted by BJH324JH
That said, bad compression would tend to manifest as rough/uneven running like a misfire, not just a high idle.
+1 on that. Drop in compression will cause low/rough idle, hard starts, loss in power. High idle can be a vacuum leak, over advanced ignition timing or incorrectly adjusted carb. Go back and reset the idle screws to bring the idle down and you should be in the ball park.
elrctric choke coil should be getting 12V(& warm).... otherwise may take a long time to idle 'normal'