Engine stalling while idling. Rough idle

Okay so i didnt get a chance to go to the shop today to work on it because it stalled about 2-3 miles from my house and i was thinking i would give it time to cool off and come back later. I got back to the truck a few hours later and tried to get it started. Turned the key a bunch of times and could not get it to turn over. I was facing uphill at this time and managed to turn it around so it was facing down hill. A few more unsuccessful turns and then on the 4th it started and i drove it home no stall. While in neutral and parked I let it idle for a few minutes and it did not shut off. I turned it off and then tried to turn it back on and same 3-4 key turns until it fired. Did this 3 times and every time it hesitated to start and then finally did. Every time I was not giving gas I was just turning the key. See video below.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A2kBDwzeDlA

LAZY ME not having read through all the posting on this thread is wondering if your truck uses mech or elec fuel pump..? What causes an engine to die (besides all those complicated electronics icm fuel injectors maf TPS etc???)
1) Loss of spark
2) No fuel or fuel problems
3) Failed alternator

SERVICE ORDER
1) Load test battery
2) Test fuel pump pressure
3) Test alternator

Test drive & report any further problems to customer esp if reported problems cannot be duplicated ~ probable replacement of ICM is required if unable to diagnose causes of customer complaints...
Parts: $577.00
Labor: $1,349.00
FACTORY ICM: $721.00
TAX: $98.00

TOTAL $2,745.00

:cloud9: <---- you'll fix it soon

This post about a failing alternator may be relevant to your interests:
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...ll=1#post78545

I have a new ignition switch coming. I have been able to get my self out of a stall by jiggling the key and trying to start it. Sometimes it will run for the entire time i drive it sometimes it runs rough and stalls until i jiggle just right and start it. I will report back after i replace the ignition switch. I replaced the alternator and was having the same issues. Im really hoping all the issues are stemming from the ignition switch.

Replaced the ignition switch and no luck same issues. Do you think my starter is bad and that is causing the inconsistent start and the stalling? I attached 2 more videos. First is it starting and the second is it stalling. I also adjusted my tps and it seemed to ran better but still stalling and having starting issues.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0EwA-IQ1SY4
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oaM6r-UIdn4

Does your truck have wire type fusible links coming off the + battery terminal that supply 12V to the wiring harnesses; maybe a bad wire or loose connection..? I posted plenty photos of "fusible links" check those photos

Only recently have I learned that the big red cable on the + pos battery terminal is ONLY powering the starter motor ~ smaller wires off the battery power all the other stuff ~ themz is what needs checking to be sure 12V power is being constantly supplied ~ some guys hate Scotty Kilmer auto mechanic on YouTube ~ maybe google search him diagnosing a similar problem as yours
Good Luck & Enjoy the Fixing
Aloha ~ George

That starter sounds like the pinion isnt retracting properly and the solenoid is ticking
you might pull it out and inspect the flywheel ring gear teeth (engines tend to stop at the same spot, so it might be that the teeth in 1/4 of it are damaged, sometimes it gets past that section and starts)
and also check that you have the correct gear on the starter, and that it is moving in and out.


but i dont think that that is the issue, it still sounds to me like the timing is wrong when starting. do you have a timing light?
too advanced timing will give that kind of starting and run "ok"


you should check the pully to see if its wandering, and maybe inspect the timing belt and tensioner, a bad tensioner will let the timing wander about by a few teeth
a bad harmonic damper will also wander around abit

i say that because the engine seems to run fine (belt is tensioned by the engine spinning) and then it sounds like its kicking back when you try start it (slack belt has altered the timing) if its then wandering when the idle speed drops, it loses its timing and stalls out

hard to diagnose over the internet of course

another thing iv been suggested is an internally corroded positive battery cable, giving intermittent high resistance


but consensus is that the timing is out

Rehashed ~ your truck is fuel injected, right ? What have you done to ensure its not a fuel problem ? 4G64 is that 2.0 or 2 4L engine ?

yes fuel injected 2.4L. I changed the fuel filter. I bought a fuel pressure sensor that I will be replacing this weekend. I also changed the icm did not fix. I am also going to put the original starter back In. I had switched I thinking it was bad but it ended up being the neutral safety switch on the clutch pedal broken

its kicking back on the starter, Its textbook trying to crank against an ignition stroke.
Check your timing, either retard the distributor a little, or soemthings up with the reluctorwheel (these engines had both but i think you would have the distributor for that year)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Rehashed

yes fuel injected 2.4L. I changed the fuel filter. I bought a fuel pressure sensor that I will be replacing this weekend. I also changed the icm did not fix. I am also going to put the original starter back In. I had switched I thinking it was bad but it ended up being the neutral safety switch on the clutch pedal broken

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THANKS FOR THE FEEDBACK ~ YOUR TRUCK IS DRIVING ME NUTS :smileyinthebox: TORTRON :eek1: ACTUALLY, SEEMS YOU'RE LEARNING A LOT MORE ABOUT THESE THINGS ~ CAN'T WAIT TILL YOU FIND THE MAIN PROBLEM ~ SERIOUSLY, CHECK OUT SOME YOUTUBE VIDS ABOUT THIS ISSUE, MIGHT GET LUCKY ~ WISH I COULD HELP MORE BUT MY TRUCK IS CARBURATED ~ I THINK SOMETHING IS CAUSING THE ENGINE TO RECIEVE EITHER TOO MUCH FUEL OR NOT ENUFF FUEL (SIGNALS TO THE FUEL INJECTORS FROM A BAD SENSOR?) OR, SOMETHING IS CAUSING AN INTERMITTENT LOSS OF ELECTRICAL POWER SOMEWHERE ~ A TIMING LIGHT & TACHOMETER IS HELPFUL TO FINE TUNE THE ENGINE & MAYBE USE THE TIMING LIGHT TO SEE IF TIMING IS ADVERSLEY AFFECTED WHILE REVVING THE ENGINE OR IF IT CHANGES AS THE ENGINE DIES (?) AM WONDERING WHAT YOU CAN DO TO CAUSE THE ENGINE TO DIE (LIKE DOING A DEMONSTRATION TO THE REPAIR SHOP TO PROVE THE PROBLEM EXISTS) IF YOU CAN DO THAT THEN THE PROBLEM IS NEARBY ~ AM BEGGING FOR YOU TO GIVE UP & SELL YOUR TRUCK TO BUY ME A PAIR OF YAMAHA PWC 'n TRAILER <----- JOKING BADLY ~ HAVE A GREAT WEEKEND PLAYING 'n FIXING
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...id=26509&stc=1

@xboxrox i make good money buying cars and motorcycles that "dont run" and getting them going within a few hours. You just have to go through methodically,throwing new parts at something without finding the root cause is probably the most stressful way to do it

Yea I am definitely doing this the most stressful way. It’s just difficult because my problems are intermittent and I think I have fixed and tuned up the truck it runs better and then it always comes back and has this stall. Do you think all these symptoms could be from the timing being off. I’m going to do the timing tomorrow. I do not have any codes which hopefully is another good indicator of it being timing and not a sensor of some sort.

The rough starting sounds like every time i have had a car with the timing out, the way it runs and dies would also make sense. Its something thats easy enough and free to check

(but you know, diagnosing over the internet is hard, i actually walked my brother through getting his new barnfind (23 years sitting) running last night over the phone, so sometimes it works)

My truck had a carburetor float that leaked & sunk in the fuel bowl causing flooding & no start ~ one year later & a ton of parts thrown at the problem could have been avoided had I known the float was the only problem a $15.00 part 'n 2 or 3 hours labor ~ live & learn

Update. I found my issue and it ended up being something that I had addressed early on but missed. The female end on the connector from the main harness to the coil. One side of the inside of the female connector was bent and wasn't making good enough contact at all times causing the intermittent issues. I used a little pin and pushed the contacts closer and she fires right up no issues no stalling. So good news is i made sure timing is perfect its running incredible now. I likely cleared up issues with the full tune up as well so im not unhappy with how it all worked out. Thanks for all the help and ill update the post with anything new!

:thumbup: X10