I’m going with using an electric fuel pump. I ordered one seen in the photo. That should work right? Also what do I do with the obsolete mechanical fuel pump? How do I remove it from the closed system?
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I’m going with using an electric fuel pump. I ordered one seen in the photo. That should work right? Also what do I do with the obsolete mechanical fuel pump? How do I remove it from the closed system?
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You canbuy a piece to block it off or make one. I made one out of sheet metal and got some shorter bolts. Use a gasket. I also plugged off the return line in the engine bay.
Got a feeling popular inline 6/V8's have aftermarket block off plates that will work for the pump delete...
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...id=25792&stc=1 I’m trying to figure out where this ground goes
.
Assuming you are talking about the brass O connector. Have you had the coil off its mount? That looks like it might be the wire that is grounded under one of the mount bolts on my 85. In that area there is a ground on the frame and the battery tray.
I ended up using the 94’ head with an electric fuel pump.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...id=25841&stc=1
I did a compression test. I’m thinking cylinders #3 & #4 are filling up at the same time. So maybe bad head installation?
I redressed the carburetor. Was a learning experience. Im concerned i got my primary and 2ndary jets mixed up. The Hanes illustration was kinda unclear.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...id=25842&stc=1
also, my fast idle cam isn’t functioning properly. After adjusting the fast idle it doesn’t return to the set position.
Id lean towards needing a re ring on those two because they came up when wet. They are not so low as to show a break in the head gasket between them
a difference of 120 and 90 on an old cold engine is not bad tbh, itl run happily for many miles id say
Maybe check the head bolt torque and see if they need re-torquing? :shrug:
If compression is more then 10% between the PSI the engine needs to either be re ringed or bores need to be oversized. Compression can also be lost through valve leaking through the seats. In that case you need to remove the head(s) and either lap the valves or take them in to get the heads rebuilt. A blown head gasket will push combustion gases into either the cooling system or Oil drain back system. Check the cooling system with the rad cap off and if you see bubbling it's pushing gases into the system. My 302 had that problem last year and the engine would show it was over heating even when the engine was running at 160-175 degrees as Air will heat up more then liquid so the sensor was getting a false reading.
Just a few things to look at, hope this helps.
Pressure came up when wet, so it's the rings for sure. Can do a leak down test to check the head/valves.
Did you get the engine up to running temp before you did the test? If it was on a cold engine, then I wouldn't worry about it, again on those readings, if blow by and oil consumption wasn't excessive I wouldn't worry too much. Maybe think about putting a few bucks aside for a rebuild in the future
Looks like a tear-down is in this engines' future. If the bores aren't ripped up and there isn't an obvious lip on the tops of them, a set of fresh standard rings, de-glaze the bores and a once over of the head will bring it back into service. If the head hasn't come off the engine, it is definitely due for new valve stem seals anyway. Fingers crossed you don't find anything menacing in there while it's apart. The head is the most expensive part of a freshen up - factor in a head gasket kit, timing belts and tensioner, a water pump (engine is out and it'll be the best time to do it) and bare minimum new rings. Consider new alternator/AC belts, a thermostat and new hoses as well.
Where can i find these exhaust manifold bolts?
2 of mine are done.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...id=26485&stc=1
Look up metric exhaust manifold studs. Should be able to source them no problemo :thumbup: Pull a complete one out and measure it (they should be an M8 stud) 1G Talon, Lazer, Eagle, Eclipse etc will be a good place to start a search.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...id=26489&stc=1http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...id=26490&stc=1
im trying to figure out where this (coolant?) port goes to on the throttle body of the carburetor.
IIRC, that goes to the coolant tee on the intake manifold which also feeds the heater.Quote:
Originally Posted by PrestigeWorldwide
thank you!
one more
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...id=26491&stc=1
this guy right here. seems like a hose goes here.
Goes to the vacuum boxQuote:
Originally Posted by PrestigeWorldwide
https://youtu.be/veGXGMIZ33c
new head gasket installed. dash of gas in the air cleaner. wont start. have not troubleshooted to much yet. but ive been fucking with this thing for a year. ready to be done with this. any guidance is appreciated.
PLEASE DON'T GIVE UP ~ ANYTHING NEWER IS ELECTRIC OR EVEN MORE COMPUTER CONTROLLED <--- A.K.A. GOOD LUCK FIXING THEM..! MY TRUCK DROVE ME NUTS TRYING TO GET IT RUNNING OVER THE YEAR BEFORE THE PANDEMIC ~ REBUILT THE CARBURETOR, REPLACED THE DISTRIBUTOR VACUUM ACTUATOR, IGNITION COIL AND ACURATELY SET THE INITIAL, CENTRIFICAL & VACUUM ADVANCE TIMING SETTINGS ~ ALL ELSE ALL NEW (SPARK PLUGS WIRES ETC YADA YADA...)Quote:
Originally Posted by PrestigeWorldwide
FINALLY GOT IT TO START & RUN ~ THE ONLY THING WRONG WAS THE CARBURETOR FLOAT HAD LEAKED AND WAS FULL OF FLUID CAUSING A FLOODING CONDITION ~ DAMN HINDSIGHT IS WONDERFUL ~ SETTING THE TIMING WAS WORTH IT THOUGH, RUNS MUCH BETTER NOW
HAVE A GREAT WEEKEND GUY
Aloha ~ George
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...id=26510&stc=1
just run through it methodically. engine only needs fuel + air, and spark (at the right time) and compression
it sounds to me like the timing is out so double check your timing marks, plug leads are going to the right plug.,
see how it turns over and then kicks back a bit, try retarding the distributor a little. maybe its out 180 degrees
some basic tests you can do in general when an engine wont start are
pull the plugs and visually inspect them while turning the engine over, you should see them all sparking if so ign is good*
put the plugs back in and spray some starting fluid down the intake
if it starts right up on the ether then you probably have a fuel delivery problem (carb jets blocked, float stuck, fuel pump issue, injectors not working)
if it chuffs and backfires and kicks back then there is probably a timing issue
compression is a bit harder to test with no tools, but you will notice it sounds funny when turning it over as the engine turns easier on the bad cylinder
exactly what i needed, thanks guys.
With all spark plugs removed ~ A remote starter switch is handy ~ use it with ign key in ON position to test for spark @ each spark plug ~ use it with ign key in OFF position to check for compression ~ if your thumb gets blown off the spark plug hole then compression is good enuff to start & run the engine ~ good luck
Be careful with key in ON position because the engine could start ~ key in OFF position a remote starter switch will only crank the engine over but there will NOT be any spark @ the plugs
"A remote starter switch is handy" thank you
I did rented a compression tester.
peep my numbers.
Ive been obssessed with these timing marks, this is the best ive ever got them.
I was beginning a timing belt guide that would have me remove a screw from the side of the block to the oil pump, and stick a flat head inside the hole to verify that the oil pump was timed correctly. But that screw was a flat head set screw that instantly became a job. Also, the cylinder header with cam came from a newer model D50. But TPDC should be the same on all models of upper cams right?
The engine lurching during startup is concerning, timing feels off to me to. The upper cam wasn't in the greatest condition. I have not checked spark on plugs yet.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...id=26511&stc=1http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...id=26512&stc=1http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...id=26513&stc=1http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...id=26514&stc=1http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...id=26515&stc=1
https://youtu.be/55sN81qlh0g
todays startup attempt video