New member 88 Mightymax 4WD possible 4G63 swap in CA?

I got some more updates to post.
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as you can tell I got the non jet valve head all installed, and I deleted balance shafts, and I installed the main timing chain, and the smaller secondary one installed, I also painted the oil pan, and balance shaft inspection cover gold, it was in an effort to try and match the brass freeze plugs theme.

Here are a few free general tips for other DIY guys, that plan to rebuild their own motor, if you decide to use a cheep gasket set I strongly recommend that you not use the head gasket that is included in these cheep sets, all the other gaskets are okay in the cheep gasket set for the most part, but I have personally had cheep head gaskets blow on me, ether in between cylinders, or just not seal at all this has happened on at least 3 occasions, and these were not high HP builds ether, so from now on I like to use the fel-pro perma torque head gaskets, so far no issues with them, also skip using the oil pan gasket, especially if your oil pan is flat, it might be a good option for guys that have somewhat bent oil pans, but even in these cases, I suggest you still apply a light application of RTV on both sides of the oil pan gasket before installation, I like to use just the gray high temp RTV silicone sealant on good flat oil pans, doing it this way I have never had an oil pan leak on me, the trick is to apply an even smooth clean layer of RTV over the pan, install the pan on the block not fully torqued, just snug, meaning you still need to crush the lock washers on the small M10 oil pan bolts wait about 5-10 minutes and then torque them down fully, and try to avoid getting any rtv in the threads of the block, I have heard of guys using black high temp RTV with good results too, but most oil pans are black [not in my case, since I painted it gold lol]so it can sometimes be hard to tell if you have even coverage of sealant on the pan, hence why I like to use the gray over the black sealant, but ether will work, you just have to have a keen eye with the black RTV.
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I spent some time polishing my valve cover to a mild chrome finish.
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I got the motor in the truck, I'm waiting on some other parts at the moment namely I ordered an all aluminum radiator, some spark plug boots and some other parts that I'm waiting on more updates soon.

Sort of a little update: okay I got the motor and trans in the truck, the motor needs to be broken in, but i'm not sure if I have everything setup right, any tips or help is greatly appreciated.

Question 1: Here goes, I installed an after-market electric fuel pump [ I used the all too common chrome Mr gasket chevy fuel pump block off plate], and I'm not sure if I installed the fuel hoses correctly at the carb, the pump is located correctly under the fuel tank and at a close enough proximity that it won't burn out, [I ordered a basic mechanical pump for future install it's on the way along with the 2 book set of factory service manuals for my "88 truck, thanks to ebay] i'm not sure if I can get it to pass CA emissions with the universal electric pump on it, but I think I should be okay, but you never know.

Q 2: So another question is could I be pushing too much fuel into the stock mikuni carb running this after-market electric fuel pump I don't want to run rich or too lean on a new motor?

Q 3: I have 3 fuel hose fittings how I have to route and 2 hoses a return line and the supply so what do I do here do I plug the return or do I keep it...

...If someone could show me how they set up the fuel hoses, on the stock mikuni carb, I'd appreciate it, I have sort of made an effort to look for some info on here via google,but most of what I have seen deal with weber installs... any links would help if you have any, to build threads where they touch up on this subject better thanks.

also some insight into what I did on the truck, I installed, a new fuel filter, I replaced the fuel filler hose with one from Napa along with all the hoses and clamps, located above the fuel tank, that go to the supply return filter etc, all have been replaced, just because I had the fuel tank off, for the filler hose replacement and I did not want to have to go back in there again if any of them were bad, also the carb thats on the truck is a re-manufactured unit I saw an inspected by sticker on it, and it looks sort of chromed, I also replaced the secondary vacuum diaphragm the old one was leaking, threw a brand new 02/oxygen sensor on there, put new plugs wires cap rotor, timing is set to the best of my knowledge but I'll check it with my timing light when the car is really running, not sure if I have to remove any vacuum lines or ground any wires to check timing on these trucks but I'll figure that out later.

You need a fuel flow splitter canister to split the fuel delivery. It looks like a fuel filter but it has 3 hose barbs on it and all are facing the same way on one side of the can body (they came in all metal or all plastic assemblies). Early Mitsubishis that ran a single fuel line in/out mechanical pump used these to divide the fuel delivery between the main fuel inlet and the accelerator enrichment pump on the side of the carb. You will need this for your carb to work properly. Don't plug the return or it will cause grief. This type of set up isn't needed on Webers as the main fuel inlet covers all the bases. You will not need to disconnect any of the vac lines to set your distributor as it won't receive any vacuum from idle.

Thank you Geezer101, I recently I spotted a fwd auo trans G54B Chrysler new yorker "84 I got to say it's kinda crazy having a water pump above the bell housing, I was tempted to pull the carburetor too [as a spare] but it had a gear style choke where as my MM has the electric looking choke...hmm these are in short supply maybe i should have pulled it.

The Chrysler set up is the same as the FWD Magna 2.6 engine. It's "unnatural" to see a pulley hanging off the back of a 4G54 head lol. But if you wanted to run a remote electric water pump this engine would be perfect.

One thing that I did like, on the Chrysler NY, is the location of the fuel filter being mounted on the valve cover, so I ordered a brand new fuel filter for the "84 Chrysler NY, one that mounts on the valve cover, I might run both the mighty max one thats under the truck by the fuel tank, and the NY one under the hood, but I doubt that much filtering is necessary, I could just delete the one by the tank and only run the one under the hood it would make replacement a breeze.

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Originally Posted by mitsubishikid

One thing that I did like, on the Chrysler NY, is the location of the fuel filter being mounted on the valve cover, so I ordered a brand new fuel filter for the "84 Chrysler NY, one that mounts on the valve cover, I might run both the mighty max one thats under the truck by the fuel tank, and the NY one under the hood, but I doubt that much filtering is necessary, I could just delete the one by the tank and only run the one under the hood it would make replacement a breeze.

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I would leave the tank filter where it is. Reason for that is I had a car that I had resurrected had a ton of fine sediment sitting in the bottom of the tank. With a decent improvement in power to weight, it only took one good launch and it killed the car. It stirred all the sediment up from the tank and it literally blocked the entire fuel line from front to rear. Purging a solid fuel line and trying to completely clean it out is a PITA.

yry on amazon i just bought a brand new complete head for 369.99 with free shipping non jet head got it in 2 days

surprised the new Yorker head didn't have an air pump driven off the cam - I have seen them on many a caravan in the JY. Don't waste your time with the carb - totally different from the truck and not worth the hassle to use it or parts off of it. The carb could be the reason it is in the JY in the first place. The head on the other hand should be a non jet valve head, but most likely cracked anyways.

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Originally Posted by rattler

yry on amazon i just bought a brand new complete head for 369.99 with free shipping non jet head got it in 2 days

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I got my head off of amazon too, [helpful warning] look out, I found aluminum shavings in mine, and I also found some sand blasting media as well so put some safety goggles on and use an air compressor to blow any foreign matter out.

Update: I think I fixed my dash and brake light problem I was wiggling wires under the dash and the illumination lights would go on and off, I eventually discovered that there was a black connector under the dash, the turn signal stalk goes to it, I disconnected it and found out one of the pins was bent oddly the wire was green white, so I bent it lightly back so it would tightly contact the pin on the opposite side and so far problem solved.