cool truck I'm jealous of that tach
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cool truck I'm jealous of that tach
Thanks! its nice having the tach i really dont like driving cars without one my other truck really needs one lol i just need to hook it up to the megasquirt once i get it installed so that it still works lol
the NP 2500
gear ratio
1.......3.79
2.......2.29
3.......1.48
4.......1.00
OD....0.79
Rev...3.90
This is for reference on the gearing of the new trans
Well here are pics of the engine and trans setup finally lol this is what will be going in the pickup
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps77e7b8a2.jpg
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So what these last few pics are is proof of a discovery i made at the jy. The dakota 2.5(and i would presume all 2.2&2.5 motors) have the SAME EXACT CRANK PATTERN!!!!! the bolt pattern and center bore are an exact match to the 2.0/2.4 motors! Pictured is the 2.5 dakota flywheel i snagged bolted up to my sbec 2.4 out of a 2000 stratus. The smaller flexplate is a neon t350 i have laying around and the bigger one is an srt4s t850 that is an exact match for size and starter ring gear with the dakota. My plan is to use the entire dakota setup with the starter flywheel clutch trans slave and possibly master that is still to be determined with the 50 being a cable clutch i have to modify that to make it all work. The biggest hurdle at this point is the crank difference is shallower where the input shaft meets up with it so the bellhousing doesnt sit flush when you bolt it on. More info to come later so you guys dont get bored with how little progress i make lol. The coupe is being put together so the truck cant get any fab work
^^^wow
With the stock stratus head it will retain the intake and exhaust on the same sides as the 4g64 but i will likely keep the intake to the drivers side and keep it away from the exhaust heat and the stratus intake is a long runner so it will build awesome torque i just have to modify it for a forward facing tb so its not hitting the firewall lol
Welp tore down the motor and #3 rod bearing is junk and will likely need a grind yay not what i wanted
Well I pulled out the truck and played with it a little bit.....
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q...psc4jq54rg.jpg
That's not good news about the fragged bearing. Hopefully you won't find anything else nasty in there at the same time. What is the clearance like between the back of the head and the firewall? Looks like there's meant to be a CAS attached to it (and a coolant outlet too)
Glad to see you making some progress on JJ, RNMM. Lots of challenges lay ahead, but I know you're up to them.
A year from now we'll be getting pictures of the body work you're doing, because the engine is running good!
Best of luck to you :)
You have enough room under that hood for 3 of them engines. Count on having dirty hands for the next few months huh? ;)
lol i have a small section of clean clothes in my closet i scrap metal and work on cars and do anything and everything dirty lol. As for the back of the head yes there is a cam sensor that goes on the intake cam and the other port is an egr port, the egr will be blocked off since those just gunk up an engine anyways and the cam sensor will not be used, at least not there. If i go with a factory computer installation i will be using the jeep setup which will give me many advantages for my rwd oreintation(jeep wrangler and liberty were avaliable with the 2.4 for a few years in both rwd and 4wd) that places the cam sensor in the front timing cover and has a trigger wheel that attaches behind the exhaust cam wheel. It will also give me a single serpentine 6 rib belt to run the A/C, alternator, and power steering all together at once. As for that body work roy, IM NOT TOUCHING THE DAMN BODY ITS GOOD ENOUGH lol its actually in remarkable shape and i just dont want to mess with it and the time energy and money it requires lol plus i dont want to hack up and keep it looking as original and factory as possible. Thats the goal of this whole ordeal is to have an OBD2 simple and efficient factory setup that will have more than enough power and get good gas mileage while being way more reliable.
But i may just go with megasquirt since i could always just use my laptop to diagnose anything quickly and easily then and would be a lot easier and quicker than trying to integrate the factory system with the mitsu but we shall see. Im thinking however that i will need to cut and recreate the engine crossmember since it is the one piece that is the most in the way of the oil pan and it is a lot easier to rebuild than to reshape the oilpan
So i need some help guys, I need some pictures of the engine bay and how much room i have to the radiator and core support. As you can see i took off the core support to replace it, and im doing the swap while it is out for ease of driveline installation. If you have your engine out that would work perfect, as would the engine installed. Any measurements would be great but i really only need some reference photos. A shot directly down the radiator without the shroud would be perfect espically an aftermarket aluminum unit that im going to switch to. Also a side shot of the back of the engine to see how far it is from the firewall/ how far into the engine bay the transmission sits. Also if anybody has a picture of how much room from the hood to the valve cover or a measurement instead would be helpful. Lastly i need a picture from either side of the truck of the steering linkage and where it is compared to the oil pan and transmission. Any and all help is greatly appreciated even if you only have one measurement or one picture.
PICTURE DUMP ALERT
Okay so i did some test fitting and without the oilpan i was able to get the engine and trans closeish to where i want it and bolt on one of the manifolds i have as an option this is just mock up and is not where everything will end up
with the oil pan on
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q...psc4jq54rg.jpg
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps3lcicj0i.jpg
Now with the pan off
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps9bae4286.jpg
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps6c445be4.jpg
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I have an option of at least 3 different intakes that i will prefer with caravan and stratus intakes being a much longer runner for superb torque and even the pt or jeep intakes that wrap up over the valve cover that would be similar to the stock mitsu intake
Some of those camera angles are downright artful, RNMM!
Project is looking great, and I know you feel good about working on the truck, again.
So darn CLOSE on a few of those positionings, and yet so far. You'll figure it out, I'm wagering good money on it :)
This one is pure art...Quote:
Some of those camera angles are downright artful, RNMM!
Attachment 11298
lol thanks but its just my iphone5 i just point and shoot lol and try to get the necessary info included in the picture but that last one i have a feeling the brake lines are going to have to move sadly ill take a pic here sometime of the stratus intake i want to use
The good thing about the upper half of your inlet manifold is the thermostat housing is in the right place. What will you need to do to get the throttle body in a forward facing position?
any manifold i will run will have either a forward facing tb or one going over the valve cover like stock 4g64 its just a matter of cut and weld on some aluminum
with the oil pan on did you have room between the oil pan and the hood
Wow ive neglected this thread for a while lol. Ive got another engine, this time complete with ALL the stratus accessories so i can get stuff from a parts store, one of the main goals is long term and simple so avaliable parts is a MUST. I also got a new trans, this time its the newer dakota trans that shares a bellhousing bolt pattern with a slew of other transmissions made by Aisin that are all different later versions of the original that i have, the AX15. This means Toyota R154(supra) and chevy MA5 can be used if i need more beef than the standard one i have. At the moment i have a block with accessories bolted to the transmission ready to be mocked up in the truck, but i need some help. I need a critical measurement to make sure that i am keeping the drivetrain lined up correctly and not screwing with any of the geometry. I need to know where the crankshaft is in relation to the frame, so i can duplicate that number and modify the truck accordingly. Mainly i need the measurement of the crankshaft centerline at the front of the engine compared to the frame. So if you have a stock engine truck that is torn down(front of the motor is all off and you can grab the crankshaft) PLEASE put a ruler or something across the frame and a tape measure next to the crank and take a picture. It will help me immensly.
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q...psis6kvbov.jpg
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I got an entire 1999 stratus engine at the picknpull 50% off sale including alternator, AC compressor, power steering pump, intake and exhaust manifolds, wiring harness, and ecu. This allows me to get off the shelf easy to find parts for a stratus, with just some fabbed motor mounts and fuel system. All of the accessories on the stratus are in the same location that the trucks were originally, so only some custom lines to connect said systems need to be made. The new trans is the later dakota 2.5 transmission, the ax15. The bellhousing to trans pattern is the desirable one that is a rather universal pattern that aisin uses on a range of transmissions from the chrysler/jeep ax15, toyota r series(including supra r154) and chevy ma5 transmission. They are all the same basic transmission, granted some internal differences and external locations and lengths, and are all quite reliable. Also planned now is a 50 Trim or equilavent turbo on a 420A eclipse turbo manifold running 15psi and should be good for 300hp and be big enough to stay OUT of boost for 30+mpg but be more than adequate for towing a neon on a trailer.
(copied from my neons.org project log)
how are we doing?