Did a block test came out good the head isnt cracked just the exhaust lol also did a compression test got 165-170-155-170 so one isnt quite as good but satisfactory numbers all around so now to figure out the issues
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Did a block test came out good the head isnt cracked just the exhaust lol also did a compression test got 165-170-155-170 so one isnt quite as good but satisfactory numbers all around so now to figure out the issues
how do the plugs look?
Plugs were fine a little black from running rich but ok other than that ive checked the codes finally and got only the iac motor position sensor code now so im gonna try to find a new one once i get some money and hopefully it will start cold then
Back to the original topic ive talked to some local guys searched a bunch more on the web and looks like a dohc head on my block will yeild between 11-12:1 compression does anyone have any verification of this? I havent found head cc measurements yet to do the math on
that's a cool truck! My '90 was that same Fiji Blue color - but not a Macro. :thumbup:
has anybody tried the 16 valve sohc head from the 4g64 3rd gen eclipse or dodge stratus? thinking im gonna try that swap if i can find a cheap head
nevermind just compared head gaskets not gonna happen theres multiple differences mainly added oil drain passages so its not gonna happen
Your hard starting and bucking problems could be a distributor cap problem also, how does it look?
Cap looks OK but im gonna get a new one soon the thing that makes me think its not that is its not always hard only dead cold
The motor position code has to do with the distributor as I was told by LSR Mike.
According to the fsm its the iac motor position sensor and it doesnt have high idle when cold and doesnt start when cold so im gonna go with that troble is getting a known good one as the only one in the jy is still throwing the code and new from napa is $250
well this cold snap in all of america except for florida ive barely driven the truck but the dusting of snow i got one night it was good and sideways once i got her warm so a lot of thinking with this time without a job has gotten me 3 options for the truck do i swap in a 318 5 speed combo with highway gears or a 4bt 6 speed or dohc swap and tall tires or dohc swap now and 318 later? options that i cannot make a decision on because im sure with a taller gear in the axle, little bit taller tires and dohc i could see somewhere in the mid 30s for mpg or a 4bt and easily get into the 40s or just say the hell with it put in a v8 and make it badass and get like 22mpg freeway(same as what i get now) what are yalls opinions?
Done right a 318 would get better mileage then that, My 302 with an old worn out carb is getting 16-18 mpg in the city and 24-26mpg on the highway with 3.45 gears in back. With a 6 speed you could probably hit in the Mid 30 mpg with a 318. Before the carb went south I was getting around 26-28 mpg in the city and 44-46 mpg on the highway in Overdrive.
the sideways was on pupose its actually quite easy to drive in bad conditions i just love going sideways thats why i emptied the bed lol and if i go 318 its gonna be a magnum 5 speed setup from a dakota on factory ecu and really tall gears in the rear end somewhere between 2.75 and 3.23 and yes i know the stock axle will not allow that im either gonna use a yota axle or 5 lug swap with an 8.8 disk axle but who knows at this point we will see what i want to do after a school since im enlisting in the navy
Get a rear end out of a montero 2nd gen - its a 9" unit based on the ford 9" design, only heavier built, and disk brakes
Yeah more info!!! Id like to keep the 6 lug just cause thats what it is lol kinda fun to have multiple lugs with all the different vehicles my 78 power wagon is 5x4.5 my d200 is 8 lug but will become 5 x 5.5 and then my 250 is 8 lug the neons are 5x100 and then the 6x5.5 d50!
And i have 5 acres so spare tires/wheels have plenty of room
it has to be from a 2nd gen montero, not the sport, or the 1 ton trucks. the only downside is the fact that they come with 4.63 gears, and higher gears (lower numerically) are hard to find - I have read that ford ring and pinions fit, but I have never tried that so I can't confirm. They do have 31 spline axles, so that could be a good clue.
My 1990MM was getting 10 mpg . I change out the fuel injectors. And fuel pressure regulators . Still ran the same. Turned out I had a bad ecu.
my 88 ram 50 with a 2bbl 17,XXX miles on it I had a very similar problem it had a loss of power, would not go over 55mph, would barely run on its own, fuel got in the oil, bad gas mileage, and it smoked really bad out the exhaust. I thought it was a timing belt was off by a tooth or two, but when I checked it was fine. I did a compression test on it and it passed perfectly (I didn't think it was the rings with it only having 17k on it) so I took it to my automotive class and I did an ignition scope on it to find out spark plug wire 2 and 3 were switched. after that I cleaned the plugs and changed the gas filled oil and boom he runs great now... I bought it for 700 thinking it needed an engine to figure out it was 2 and 3 spark plug wires were switched
great catch - so now you have a great running truck on the cheap
mine runs pretty decent but is efi and just doesnt start well when cold and gets crappy mpgs
Goddamn pos mitsubishi this thing is getting a 360 as soon as i can get a tranny, clutch, flywheel, and rebuild kit anybody happen to have a 4 or 5 speed trans? An no im not keeping the 4cyl trans thats pointless but for now i need to get it to run so who knows whats wrong? The only code is for the motor position sensor which ive had that code forever but it wolnt run randomly if anybody saw my posts on fb it starts and dies the timing belt isbgood and on time the different sensors if i unplug any one does not affect it so im at a loss im about to unbolt the downpipe and see if the cat is clogged cause im at that much of a loss i have checked the fuel pump it works and im getting fuel to the rail so its not a clogged filter anybody have ideas?