ive tried before, but it would have been more than a rebuild. or it probably would have needed rebuilt
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ive tried before, but it would have been more than a rebuild. or it probably would have needed rebuilt
so i got my ecu yesterday, the guy wareenteed it for me still, even though it was my problem why the ecu kept shitting out. but the truck has a battery draw problem. my dash voltmeter flickers whenever i use something in the trcuk. like lights or the stereo. so is this normal with the truck off because the battery isnt being charged. so i havent put the ecu in. i will when i figure this last stupid thing out.
Come on, stick that ecu in and let us know if it starts! I'm dying here!
Clean all body, frame and engine grounds.make sure the ecu one is cleaned too. just unbolt them and use a little sand paper to make sure they are bare metal and sand around the bolt/screw hold as well.
ok, ill do that. the guys at hot rod coffee shop said the power flickering was normal with no regulation of voltage from the altenator, but cleaning grounds wont hurt.
Have you got the truck running yet? I also live in california. where abouts are you?
My dad and I actually added another ground wire to mine, from the engine to the firewall. We also cleaned all the other body, frame, and engine grounds, like Fordubishi suggested. I honestly don't remember why we did it right now, but making sure everything is properly grounded is a must.
I'm assuming you mean the voltmeter idiot light is what's flickering. I haven't had that happen on mine, so I don't know what to tell you on that.
You could take a voltmeter gauge (the same kind you mount inside your truck), and wire it to where you could plug it into the cigarette lighter (using the wire and plug-in from, say, an electric air pump). That way, you could hold it in your hand, or sit it somewhere close, so you can see the draw on the battery. All while sitting comfortably inside the truck. Since it's plugged into the cigarette lighter, and not hooked directly to the battery, the voltage won't be perfectly precise, maybe off by a volt or two, but for quick checking, it'll serve its purpose. Or, just run the wire from the gauge out to the battery, if you have enough wire, or you could hook up a voltmeter to the battery, and check for a drain that way. Either way, you'll be able to see what's going on. :thumbup:
Crap, I meant electric air/tire pump.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MightyMaxNick
No i havent its been to cold/wet to do anything. but im in garden valley its up past sacramento. i still have to drill out a bolt that mounts the ecu down and put it in, im a lil scared to do it though i dont want the ecu to short out again.
Im up by Eureka, In Fortuna. Just make shure your ground is in and everything is connected and you will be fine!
we put the ecu in and it was trying to start and i was getting tach signal. but the cps wires busted out of the plug. were going to put another one on tomorrow. but just to be sure on things the firing order is 1-2-3-4-5-6 right? so does that mean i put them on according to the numbers on the dizzy cap and to the cylinder #.
I had troubles with this when i was putting the cap on after i did the valve job, the firing order is, 1-2-3-4-5-6. The wires are kinda weird to put on, im pretty shure you just put them on according to the numbers on the dizzy cap and to the cylinder #. if that doesent work, post a picture of where u got your wires at.
Yes Haynes says 123456, but remember cylinder order on engine:
5 6
3 4
1 2
distributor order:
....2..6
..1......4
....3..5
Droppedmitsu... What direction is the distributor rotate? Clock wise or counter clock wise? Also do you know if it's in right. If it's off a tooth or 2 then it will try, but back fire. Recheck every thing before you try again. Check all timing, crank and cam marks and look at the rotor position. Sounds like you are in position to win the battle...... Once you get it going I'll buy you lunch.
Now if what you are showing is correct then the firing order is not 123456. That just does not sound right. It can be one of two ways. But that depends on the rotor rotation. Ether,Quote:
Originally Posted by DroppedMitsu
CW. 1-2-6-4-5-3 OR CCW. 1-3-5-4-6-2
Yea you're right the Hayne's book contradicts itself. It says rotation is counterclockwise. Another interesting note, Chiltons manual says firing order is the same,123456, but shows a different pattern on distributor.
Camoit's reply shows the correct sequence. I double checked my 3.0 and it is like his post, with the 5 and 6 wires closest to the firewall.
thanks for getting that all cleard up for me guys, im pretty sure we had it right.
with #1 spark Plug wire to # 1 plug on the dizzy?
Yes. Then the #2 cyl. to the # 2 post on the dist. and so on.. Do them 1 at a time. You can tell what direction the rotor will spin by looking at the vacuum advance. It will pull the opposite direction of rotation. This moves the advance plate so the spark hits sooner in relation to piston position. AKA advance. If you move the plate in the same direction as the rotor spins then it retards the spark.Quote:
Originally Posted by joey_crandall
If droppedmits is correct on the rotation then the firing order will be CCW. 1-3-5-4-6-2 You will be able to double check this by looking at the vacuum advance pull direction. Don't rush it after all this time. You don't want to fry anything. You can always crank it with the coil wire off the dist to confirm spark to that point. Better safe then sorry.
Then all you need to do is confirm the rotor position to the cap. Put the engine on #1 TDC and pull the dist. cap. Look at where the rotor is and see if it is aligned with the #1 post on the cap or real close. If not pull the dist. and rotate the rotor. Re install and check for alignment. It sounds like you are close.
Looking at the top of the cap starting at #1, go CCW to 3,5,4,6,2 spark plugs with your wires. If you look INSIDE the cap at the electrodes, they do not match up with the wires. As the rotor turns it will fire 1,2,3,4,5,6. Look under the cap and it will all be clear to you.
Dave so what you are saying is it has some kind of funky cap????? So they don't just stick straight through?Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave the dude
its called across fire cap and it is not uncommon in japanese and europen cars.
Yep, I remember these things. So why in Gods name would they build the cap like that??? So it costs more? Or so they can just use the same Dist. on several engines. There must be a reason the over achieving 10 year old engineers came up with the idea.
cool deal, imma go home and try this, also getting the new cps plug soldered on today. ill let you guys know later today or tomorrow.
well we got everything all together and is still didnt want. today my brother figured out the dizzy was still of a tooth and the spark plugs were rusty/corroded he said it looked like the shop that changed teh head didnt replace the spark plugs.
it starts runs and drives now, ill try to get proof uploaded on monday, camoit where we goin for lunch.
Right on bro. There is a place called Cricket and Company off auburn Blvd. They have the best food. They are open for breakfast and lunch. Otherwise we can go to La Piñata in Del Paso Heights. They have killer burritos. I think they still have a kitchen. I'm sure we can come up with somthing.
So what was the problems??????
Details we want details....... We all need closure on this 3 page 127 comment repair thread...... I think this makes a new record on the longest repair.
the crank position sensor wires being backwards kept shorting the ecu out.
after that the timing was 180 out and from there it was getting it to the right tooth and the correct firing order and count less minuets it cranking it over. then i put some cheap oil in it to flush the condensation soaked oil. and drive it to burn the condensation out of the exhaust.
it still has a slight miss but its been narrowed down to my shitty looking plug wires.
and when its legal to drive ill hit you up for lunch.
Well you know where to find me. Just let me know when. Then we will give you the directions to Area 51. But I can not confirm or deny the existence of the place.
Besides for as many things that them Russian guys run into you will probably come down to the yard soon enough.
haha yeah, but we havent been sending trucks to there for repair lately.
I would not let them work on my stuff. There a bunch of goobers. I have seen them drag a trailer 1 mile down the road before they figured out 1 of the brakes were locked up. Then they drug it back. Black marks the hole way including the blown tires and the "U" Turn. They have crashed into the front fence, the middle gates, the side fence, each other, and a parked trailer.
i know there idiots, but sometimes we get that one guy that is there "friend" and takes it there.
So this hole time it was the crank sensor wiring??? Was the plug replaced by some one or did it look like it was stock? We need the readers digest version of what you did and went through. Some one is going to see this thread and look for the fix you found.
what we thinks is it looks like when it got taken to the shop after the ecu burned up the first time there were ruling other things out first, os it looks like they pulled to plug off the cps to test that and the wires pulled out of it, and they accidently put the plug on upside down and paid no attention to it after reassembly.
Good deal Joey!!!!!!!! i know you have been ripping your hair out on this one............im assuming its not for sale anymore lol..
Congrads!!
haha yeah i pulled some hair with this one, and no its not for sale, its a cool truck its a quick lil bastard
You called ?? :)
Anyways congrats on fixing it.
i though of that about 10 minuets after i posted it it.Quote:
Originally Posted by LiL Bastard