1 bolt for the crank pulley - then the cover will come off. Since someone changed the belts recently, it may come off easily.
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1 bolt for the crank pulley - then the cover will come off. Since someone changed the belts recently, it may come off easily.
The manual shows one bolt, I can feel 3
Should be 4 - and a roll pin as a dowel. The bolts mount the pulley to the crank timing sprocket. The big @ss centre bolt mounts the whole deal to the crank (I know, Captain freakin' Obvious....)
p.s it is easier to loosen the 4 bolts while the main mounting bolt is still torqued. They can be a pain to undo when the entire assembly is removed as a single unit.
And the big one in the middle is a 19MM put it in gear, chock the wheels and grab a breaker bar...and maybe a pipe :-)
Or pull the coil lead, put a socket and breaker bar on it, rest the end of the bar on the drivers' frame rail and flick the ignition switch. Cracks them every time :thumbup:Quote:
Originally Posted by LSR Mike
I won't be home for another day or two but yes, the big one in the center of the pulley is 19mm, the the other ones around the 19mm are much smaller (I'm guessing 10 or 12mm?). Do they all need to come out? The manual shows one bolt to remove the pulley. I just need to get the timing cover off so that I can double check and make sure that everything lines up on the timing marks at TDC
Only remove the belt pulleys. If you try to yank the whole assembly off you'll take out the timing belt (literally). Yes, the pulley bolts are 12mm.
Marks aligned
Attachment 20278
Harmonic Balancer
Attachment 20279
Now looking at these Pix The Big 19MM doesn't have to be removed? Been a while...
The main crank bolt only needs to be removed when taking out the crank timing sprocket. I've wondered if there's an actual benefit to using a harmonically balanced pulley on the earlier G63B engines (both of my 2.0's don't have harmonic balancers on them....)Quote:
Originally Posted by LSR Mike
LSRMike, I hope you don't mind, I copied your photo and drew on it.
LowLifer, an important note on Mike's picture - the B belt is absent. So I copied the photo and drew some crappy arrows to show you the 4 points of timing marks you have to align. The B belt has a question mark, because I don't quite remember where the timing mark is.
It is very much a challenge to get these marks lined up - then you hand-turn the engine 6 revolutions, and they should line up again. Your manual has the details.
Mike's timing marks are seen in white on his engine. My crappy arrows almost cover them up. (Click image to enlarge)
Attachment 20280
No worries about the pix, No "b" Belt because I did the Balance shaft delete on this motor.
What you really want is this book
http://mmeierle.com/images/Max/1G%20...2%20ENGINE.pdf
Timing belt procedure starts at 11C-28...
Ah yes, thanks for the pics and off, Mike. Roy, thanks for the "crappy arrows" haha (they did actually). Well, I'm back at home and have a fairly open schedule today so, it's back to it. Thanks again, guys
I also got my front valance from the FedEx man this morning so I'm pretty excited to get that mounted as well. EBay made it sound like it was a brand new part but it looks like it's been on a truck before. It's nice and straight, just a little scuffed up which is fine cause it'll likely get some fresh paint in the near future
I'll get some pics of it mounted up later today
Sooo, no hardware for the valance. Probably a long shot but does anyone know the size of bolt and thread pitch to mount this thing up? I want to avoid using zip ties
A lot of repro parts aren't handled with the level of care an OEM would get. They're normally not even wrapped in foam to prevent them from sliding around in the box while being shipped. Hopefully it'll bolt straight up and everything will be aligned (there really is some junk on the market when it comes to repro parts...)Quote:
Originally Posted by LowLifer1990
I just mocked it up with zip ties to how it looks but it seems to fit fairly well, I just don't have the hardware to mount it up proper like
You need speed nuts/u clips - check ebay. You should be able to buy any retainer or fastener you might, could or would ever need on ebay way cheaper than over the counter.
Speed nuts/u clips, copy. Thanks Geezer
I see a few different types and sizes. Would these here do the trick?
https://m.ebay.com/itm/170-Pc-U-Clip...rd!97477!US!-1
For exterior panels you'll need something that is heavy duty and has a captive threaded insert. Something more like this -
https://www.ebay.com/itm/20X-Metal-M....c100753.m4841
If you have any of the original ones to use as a guide it will be a big help to you, just take measurements off them and get new panel bolts to match (I think these are close to what Mitsubishi uses)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/VW-Body-Bol...taALFQ&vxp=mtr
Alright fellas, I've been pretty busy with a nasty breakup. Anyhow, I'm still trying to time this old girl. I took the bottom pulley off and the timing cover still won't come off, I think I have to take my cooling fan off as well in order to remove the cover. Not a big deal, I'll get to it but where should the timing be. I wanna say 5 degrees?
You have to put the ECU in "Timing Mode" and the Base timing is 7 Degrees atdc.
If you haven't already done it Download the haynes manual
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...-Manual-inside
Timing is addresses in this post
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...tor-Allignment
I have the manual. I still can't get the damn cover off, I got it loose enough to work around it and I think I got it timed pretty well, it felt a lot better today. So I grounded the ecu with an alligator before starting the engine and then I timed it and removed the ground wire from the ecu plug after shutting the engine off. There's several timing marks on the timing cover, only one is marked for 10 degrees. Can anyone tell me what the other couple marks are?
I got it timed to what I'm pretty sure is 7 degrees. It sounds and feels pretty good while I'm driving it. I got a fresh set of tires all the way around today, I was gonna have it aligned but it turns out I have a bent tie Ron on the passenger side which explains the horribly uneven wear on my tires, so my tie rods will be here tomorrow night, installed Wednesday morning and she'll be back on the road again:thumbup:
I think all the timing increments are 5 degrees apart. Nearly there. Sounds like you are about ready for the road. So, what's next?
She just died in the freeway last night. I tried to turn the key to start her back up and nothing happens. I don't k ow what to do now. Just spent about 800 dollars on new tires and an alignment and this happens. So frustrating.
No sign of life from it? It's going to be something small - you'll spot it eventually. It is likely a problem that has been created by a PO (like an intermittent wiring fault)