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I see on Summit Racing website they sell newly rebuilt ones, pre-set to factory specs on a flow bench before shipping. Does that sound like a good place to get one? Don't really want to do all the tear-down and plug it up stuff yet if I can just plug in a rebuilt. Been working on this project way WAY too long! Then I can take my time with the Weber setup on the other manifold as time allows.
Is it okay to keep using the stock fuel pump on the 1980 D-050 2.6 ltr when putting on the Weber? I notice a lot of references to electric pumps.
The stock pump supplies more fuel pressure than the Weber can handle. 3-5 lbs of fuel pressure max when using a Weber thus all the references to using electric pumps. You don't want a pressure regulator on the stock mechanical pump as it'll eventually kill the pump.
I might be okay as I installed an electric pump years ago by the tank to give an extra boost going up steep jeep trails. I have to fire it up and check the pressure. Do have a pressure valve I could put in-line. Does anyone make block-off plates for the fuel pump etc for the conversion to a Weber?
Quote:
Originally Posted by geezer101
Hey guys. I am new to this web help. But i have an 89 mighty max with a 5 speed, 2.0 inline 4 with the original carb on it. Its time to put a new carb on her. So i did my research and decided these trucks need a weber 32/36 kit with an electric pump. But i would like to know the weber model difference. Dfev and dgev??
Hi and welcome to mightyram. The letters depict the carb configuration. The second letter describes the direction the throttle opens (clockwise "F"/anticlockwise "G") the third letter is choke type ("E" electric/ "A" aqua-water) The last letter describes the secondary throttle operation ("V" variable/"S" synchronous) The carb that operates closest to the factory Mikuni carb is the DFAV but the most common Weber install is the DFEV (the electric choke is a simpler system to rig up and adjust if necessary)
The dfev is oriented the same way as the Mikuni. That means the throttle cable pulls from the same location, and the fuel port is at the front. This is important for trucks with automatic transmission as the kick down cable is right below the throttle linkage. If you mount a dgev with the throttle on the firewall side, it would have to pull from the direction of the drivers side fender. If you mount it with the throttle toward the front of the engine, the throttle will pull from the correct side, but it will require a bracket to hold the throttle cable. The fuel port would be at the firewall side of the carb. The best thing to get would be either the Weber K614 or K610 conversion kit. The K614 comes with the dfev, and the K610 with the dgev. You have a manual tranny so either carb will work. Geezer101 is right that the dfev is the most common. It's the easiest.
I keep having issues with the Weber!
I continue to develop vacuum leaks. The first time , it was probably my fault for boogering the gasket. I re ordered a gasket set and did everything strictly by the book.
That seemed to fix the issue, but about 6 months later I face the issue of mounting bolts backing out of the adapter plates!
I loctited them and tightened them accordingly.
I have taken everything apart again and reordered the gasket set. I've cleaned everything including the bolts and all mounting surfaces and just wait for new gasket to come in.
Does anyone have any suggestions for me as I attempt to do this for the 3rd time?
I used a 1/4" drive torque wrench and torqued to the specs in the instructions. I did not use any thread locker and have had no issues.
Is the adapter plate still true (it has flat faces both sides and hasn't warped)? And have you sealed off the coolant port in the mounting base? I've wondered how many issues have been caused by the coolant port not being sealed off (if any). You could try swapping the bolts for high tensile or SS as they have a tendency to have a sharper thread cut. Upgrading bolts often cures thread tolerance problems.Quote:
Originally Posted by unc25
Coolant port is tapped and plugged.
Middle adapter seams to have a bit of warping.
I'm not sure if it was like this before or after one of my installs, I doubt this is much of an issue as the mounting bolts have clearly backed out and caused my issues.
If you're going to reinstall it from scratch there are a couple of things you could do.
First, run a tap down the the mounting holes all the way to the bottom to clean the threads really well.
Second, blow the bolt holes out with brake cleaner to degrease and remove any oily residue.
Third, blow the holes out with air to remove anything that may be left in there.
If there is anything in the bolt holes, you may have been getting a false torque. The bolts would bottom out on debris or oil deposits before fully tightening up on the adapter plate. Be sure to clean the bolts also. Using a torque wrench will ensure that all the bolts are tightened to the same torque. You shouldn't need to use any thread locker.
If the adapter plate is true I think it will be less likely to expand and 'wriggle' around from constant heat/cold cycling. A few passes on some fine wet and dry sand paper laid out over a sheet of glass should level out the worst of the irregularities and indicate how bad the plate is warped. I've repaired throttle butterfly assemblies using this method as the Mikuni (and most other) carbs end up with some degree of warpage.
I've done most of what you've suggested already Andy except cleaning bolt hole threads with tap. All the bolts have been soaked and cleaned with wire wheels.
Geezer, I like the idea of sanding the adapter plate , just not sure which grit I should use. Maybe something fine and definitely wet sand?
I'm waiting on the gasket set to come in so I've got a little time to get this ready.
Thanks for the replies
Ok, just clean threads up on the bolt holes, but now I have a thought.....
What would be the downside of me putting a dab of jbweld in the carb mounting stud holes on the adapter and then putting the studs in til they bottom out?
It would be very semi permanent, but what's the harm?
use red Loctite - it will keep the studs in and can be removed with some effort. Using the JB Weld will make them permanent - not a good idea.
yep thats what i did i used the red and it worked like a charm :thumbup:
I re-installed everything yesterday. Red thread lock gel on everything...I've torqued it down per instruction and have let it setup overnight.
I'll give it a little bit more time today before I start it up and check for leaks.
I'm hoping this time everything stays together and no more bolts back out....
see thats what i did also i waited for a day before firing my little truck up and i just let it sit and idle for about 30 mins to get the heat up without putting any stress on the carb. so far it has been ok and it,s been over a year and the base plate is still solid as a rock. hope it works out for you unc25
All seems to be well. I drove it yesterday for the first time since re-installing the carb. Drove great!
I'll keep an eye on the bolts and check to see if the red locker was enough...fingers crossed.