Yep, easy. Take the vacuum hose and suck on the end of it. You may end up with a mitsubishi aftertaste but it will be more than adequate vacuum to make the advance on the distributor actuate.
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Yep, easy. Take the vacuum hose and suck on the end of it. You may end up with a mitsubishi aftertaste but it will be more than adequate vacuum to make the advance on the distributor actuate.
Just a quick update. I've talked to a local guy that works on Carbs, hes going to rebuild the one that i got on my truck, and take a look at the distributor and if it needs work, fix it up as well. I've also talked to my painter about touch ups and different things. Hopefully i will have more updates over the next couple weeks.
Update: Funds have been low since my last post and haven't had money nor time to get the carb rebuilt, however i've been on a mission to fix all leaks that are present.
At this point i have it narrowed down to one last "leak". Coming from my Fuel Pump is a vent or something of that sort that runs from the top of the pump down to below the oil pan and then nowhere. Fuel spritzes out of that while the engine is running, is this supposed to happen or is it a sign of a bad fuel pump?
That should run back to a tube on the firewall and into the tank. If gas is coming out thats a bad thing.
that is the return line from the pump to the tank - there is supposed to be a small line that the hose goes on that goes back to the tank.
Alright, well that is something that i need to fix then, does anybody maybe know where to find a diagram of it. i checked the manual and its not quite clear.
Alright, i looked it up in the manual and it is of no help at all. Maybe i can get some more clarification from you guys I've circled the item in question.
Attachment 12224
Fuel return
Fuel pump
If your hood has not been replaced there should be a sticker. Some times you get lucky.Quote:
Originally Posted by asmyser
not original hood and the hood is to a different engine size so that doesn't help...I'm still having a hard time finding anything that is missing connections. I can't find where this thing would go...
I'm also having other issues, i believe my timing is off a tooth. ALSO i'm having a weird thing happening with the coolant. When i try to start the vehicle the coolant gets pressurized, and is pressurized even after trying to start the vehicle, this is when its cold as so heat isn't causing it. I'm not sure what would cause this.
I suck at camera phone. Can someone flip the images? From my Motor emissions guide, HTH.
Attachment 12245
Attachment 12246
Attachment 12247
Attachment 12248
Attachment 12249
Flipped.
If the coolant is pressurizing immediately after cranking, you have engine compression leaking into your cooling system - maybe head gasket or cracked head or block. That is the only way it could pressurize the system so quickly. Surprized it didn't blow out freeze plugs or hoses.
without tearing it apart is there a way to see which one if either is blown, i don't know why it would have blown i only ran it for 15 minutes and it didn't get that hot.
Compression test or take plugs out and disconnect coil and turn it over to see which one shoots water out of it. Also the one with a clean spark plug will also tell you.
Deciding on which cylinder is not going to fix it, you will have to remove the head anyway and fix it. Just hope the head doesn't have a crack, usually between MCA jet valve or intake and exhaust valves. Still fixable though.
Pressurizing the overflow tank is also a good sign you have a popped head gasket. I have had one balloon out until it was almost round.
Running time doesn't matter, it could of blown after you shut the truck off just the time before. Motors will climb in heat after shutting down and if the weather is cold enough it will suck some in and crack it. It doesn't take much to crack or blow a gasket in these trucks. Age is a good way, overheat, or it just decides to do it. It's nothing really abnormal with our trucks, some just take extra precautions to try and prevent it.
well looks like i'm tearing the manifolds off and checking the head tomorrow. updates probably for tomorrow
Yes notorious for cracking....⬇
coolant...
So I took it down and it looks like a cracked head. I'm taking it to a guy for a second opinion. The question next is, where do I get another?
You have 3 choices eather get the one you have cleaned and fixed depending on where the crack is . buy a used j yard head or buy a new one online there are several sites online that will sell you a new or refurbished head it just cost a lot 300-400 range complete.
I have a head off an '89 2.0 I have no use for. I don't know if it's cracked or not (the truck did overheat) but I can take it off tomorrow night (left tools at the shop) and check it. You can have it if you pay shipping.
Well, I'm sorry I had to give you the bad news prior to the bad news. But, there is good times ahead for you. This forum for one is the best and as you can see...people come to help. Now all you need to do is decided which way your going to go with repairs.
The thing I noticed to be one of the best things in preventing heads from cracking is to re-torque the head about 500 miles after installing a fixed or rebuilt head. Over heating is the number one problem of course for these issues and that is your number 2 things to do. Watch the temps on these trucks. If you see it climbing, pull it over fast and check for problems.
I heard a rumor about Mitsubishi years ago concerning the engine assembly and torqueing of head bolts from the factory. I'm not sure of any fact to this, but apparently when heads were installed on many Mitsubishi engines the rear head bolts were not torqued correctly. This was thought to be the main reason for numbers of crack heads and blown head gaskets in past trucks. Though the history I have seen with the trucks includes inferior metals and bad castings in many of Mitsubishi vehicles in the '80's years. One example are these darn exhaust manifolds that once were recalled for cracks.
Anyway, your not the lone ranger with your truck. We all have had the same thing happen to us long time owners as you have. I personally replaced the head 3 times and my 4th has been perfect. This might of been because I purchased a head without them MCA Jet valves. I just don't think the engine likes the burst of incoming air like that and creates a hot torch effect IMO.
Keep us posted on your fix, we can help with any issues you have during your fix.
that and dissimilar metals expanding and contracting at different rates - like putting a wedge in the middle of a log and slowly pushing until the log splits. Jet valves did help with performance when the trucks were new, but were a nightmare for the long haul
I got a brand new head from Clearwater Cylinder Head with the cam and valves installed, ready to bolt in for $375. My engine was rebuilt a year ago and the head wasn't replaced at that time.( It was a reman that I had put on 5 years ago to replace the original that was cracked). 8 months after the rebuild I was going through coolant again. I never had coolant in any of the cylinders like you have in the pic, just one really clean cylinder. I bought a new head from Clearwater and installed it myself. One thing I noticed was that the top of the block had been machined flat during the rebuild. That was never done when the first head was replaced as the engine stayed in the truck. I've since been told that could have been the reason for my subsequent troubles. I would check the top of that block to be sure its perfectly flat before you put a new head on it. Torquing the head bolts again when the engine is hot is also important.
Ok, i'll keep that in mind, i'm about ready to put the head in but i noticed that i may me missing some pins that go between the head and the block to line everything up. Can anybody shed some light on if they are needed and where i can maybe get new ones?
After much research I noticed there should be dowel pins to align the head gasket and head to the block. Got my local machine shop to whip me up some, but I noticed a bad vacuum line going from the brake booster to the intake. Any help where I may get one of these from. Local auto parts store said junkyard. Any other ideas out there floating around?
If its a hard line, make it out of a length of fuel line tubing the same size from the parts store - use vacuum hose and clamps to hook it up.
I seem to remember the alignment pins being hollow alignment tubes. There was one at the front and one at the rear. This pic shows them clearly. Attachment 12419. Fluid probably needs to flow through them, coolant or oil. These were the only pins on my 2.6
TopEnd Performance (vendor that sold me my Weber) has 2 NEW heads that will drop on these motors (mine same as yours). Both are machined w/out Jet Valves ( very good idea if replacing a head). Last time I checked (2.5 yrs. ago) the least expensive was just over $300. The more expensive head designed for Turbo setups, so not really needed for G63B naturally aspirated motors.Quote:
Originally Posted by asmyser
Just a FYI: should replace head bolts (if you don't have studs)... some people reuse old, but those threads collapse on 1st torqueing and do not torque accurately or hold torque after 1st use. I just replaced my head, had difficulty finding head bolts. Found 'em at HeadBolts.com (owner was extremely helpful: did not have 'em when I first spoke with him but he found them for me).
FYIW II: I'm new working on these old Mighty Max trucks (used to restore old SAABS for a hobby, maintained small fleet of Chevy/GM trucks when I used to swing a hammer for a living: eg. have experience and can figure things out, but these truck have their peculiarities/uniqueness). Mostly because of time constraints, just finishing my truck up last few weeks. Full motor rebuild. After getting acquainted w/my MM (mostly reading here) also decided to spring for the Weber and install an electric fuel pump.
Just finishing final testing today, but had it out for +/- 30 miles of driving in last few days and it's... sweet. Runs smoother/stronger by a good margin on the Weber. I largely decided to go with it because, although several local Carb shops said they could rebuild my Mikuni... after reading up found out practically nobody had one of those successfully rebuilt (for many reasons).
Ok, just my $0.186 (and falling).
Good luck w/your truck.
Is there a specific location on our site where the manuals you mention, and others are located?Quote:
Originally Posted by BradMph
I've also seen references from experienced posters here they have a "page" or "file" on specific subjects, but through this last few weeks getting my truck spruced up finding these has been hit or miss. I've found/read your wiki articles (very helpful), but that's only tech articles I found in one spot.
All manuals and other source reference can be found here. http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...esource-Center
ok, so i got it all back together.Howqever she doesn't run. I either have a timing issue. although the marks by the belt are both spot on. And i replaced my mechanical fuel pump and i may have switched the lines going to the carb. Does anybody that knows mikuni carbs know which line goes to what location on the carb.
what i need to know is: does the red line hook up to the top line or the bottom line on the fuel pump. I know i have the intake line properly installed.
Attachment 12497
Are you sure you have the mechanical pump arm in the right way onto the cam - are you getting fuel flow from the pump to the carb? The big line coming from the frame goes to the inlet side of the pump (bottom), the line to the carb is the middle, and the small top fitting goes on the line back to the tank.
well that confuses me, because i have three that are about the same size, and then a smaller one on top the fuel pump. The one coming directly frum the fuel filter from the tank i believe is the one that goes on the arm of the fuel pump that is single. Its the other arm that has two more hookups that i may have gotten confused on.
I need to know where 3 and 4 go to on the card, i believe i either have issues with timing, or the fuel lines being swapped.I'm pretty sure i got the fuel pump installed properly with the pin installed properly and all that.
Attachment 12499
If You go to the Wiki page you will see a Fuel Management System forum. In that forum you will find a mechanical fuel pump diagram. Try pouring a bottle cap full of gas down the carb with the throttle wide open. When you close the throttle the choke should close. Then crank it over. It may take more rpm than your battery can give you to pull fuel all the way back up from the tank. If your timing is right and you have a spark it should fire and that will prime your fuel pump. You may have to repeat this a couple of times.
Yeah I've looked at that diagram a couple times but the return to tank also goes to the carb. Along with the line to the carb
An easy test for your fuel line hookups to pump is, disconnect top line coming out of pump at carb & get someone to crank the motor. If you are getting fuel, you've got it right.
As far as identifying which line is which: there's 3 lines connected to the tank. Supply, return and vapor.
- vapor line runs down firewall from charcol box, winds behind brake master cylinder (I have same year MM as you).
- Supply line comes into engine bay from frame a bit more forward then return line. The metal line (eg: where it connects to flexible line, just above motor mount if I recall) is slightly bigger then return line. The supply line flexible section to fuel pump has a hard, plastic section over it shaped somewhat in shape of a long "S" (maybe 18 inches long). This hard section is longer and has more twists then the one on return line.
- Again, return line comes into engine bay a bit further back towards firewall then supply line. If you can get a light down there (or get underneath and observe), you can visually see the smaller hard line (return).
I just finished replacing my Mikuni w/a Webber and do not recall fuel hookup locations for the Mikuni... I pulled Mikuni off and threw it away.
As far as timing goes: did you pull distributor out completely?
If so, I had to do something do get it back in properly I haven't seen mentioned here or in YouTube Videos on how to do this: eg. I had to remove thermostat casing from intake manifold. I installed my dist. several time before doing this, and that casing always forced me to turn dist. housing a bit clockwise further then seemed correct.... motor would puff and hickup like it wanted to start but never got past that. Read a bunch of stuff where others tried "guessing" tricks. Decided to pull that thermostat flange, distributor went in much more smoothly and motor fired right up afterwards.
Well that clears some stuff up. But from my last picture line 3 and 4 both go to the carb....and always have, even before swapping to a new one
Don't know if I can provide you certainty on this... sure one of more experienced hands here will chime in. I have no diagram of Mikuni fuel line locations w/me. If nobody helps, I take a look @ my Chilton's manual when I get home later today.Quote:
Originally Posted by asmyser
Here's a good diagram of fuel pump connections (posted by Brad).
yeah i got it figured out, got it all back together and it runs better then i remember. I went out this morning verified all timing marks, and crank it a dozen times or so and it started right up, it must have been flooded yesterday. I didn't take it for a spin since there's an inch of ice outside and the truck is two wheel, but it idles great... Updates when the weather is nicer. Thanks for everyones help thus far.
Success stories are what keep us going here, plus the billions of dollars in donations we get each quarter,jk!. Congratulations on a healthy running truck :clap:.
Well i can't guarantee its completely healthy yet, but hopefully this weekend will melt all ice and snow and i can take it for a ride. Speaking of donations, i did what i can.
Well iwas looking back at pictures and maxdsm posted the following picture on post number 120 and that pictures shows the same thing i have coming from my fuel pump, i think.
Attachment 12623
This is one ling thread that's for sure. Sorry I haven't been much help lately but for the slow season things have been real busy.
CorrectionQuote:
Originally Posted by maxdsm
This picture the line in front of the block that attaches to the block is what goes to the fuel pump . it must be an overflow or breather for the fuel pump but it connect s to nothing .I slid the line over it and it fits perfectly.
Ok so the thing I circled in the picture in your truck also just goes under the engine and then nowhere, just like mine.
Ok, timing gurus out there. The truck idles ok, (its cold outside). I may or may not have an issue with my timing. And here's why i think this. The truck seems to run okay, but when i hook up the timing light to it, the mark shows up at about 10 or 11 o'clock. which is way outside of the "window" on the cover for the belts. Now, we had a hard time getting the thing to start the first time, Has anyone else ran into this issue before? When i turn the distributor so the marks get closer to lining up the engine almost shuts itself off. I'm not sure if this is something to be concerned about or not, Hopefully you guys can tell me.
It sounds like timing. The timing light shows when spark occurs with relation to crank position. If all the ignition wires are properly connected and in the correct firing order, and you can't keep it idling at 7-10 degrees advance, my guess would be you have a valve timing issue. Being one tooth off on the timing belt might be the cause.
I checked the two belt timing marks multiple times they are both dead on. And as far as the firing order i went by what the haynes manual shows.
could the dizzy be off 1 tooth?
Well that's my thought. i got so frustrated with getting that in place and running i have no idea if its in time or not, i got to a point where i was guessing and going by if it sounded like it was going to start. I didn't realize the gear had a timing mark on it until a couple hours ago, so i went by placement of the rotor and where it was pointing. i just don't want to take that out and end up with it all messed up again. Am i right in thinking that there are timing marks on the distributor?
You can mark the distributer below the cap right under where the #1 cylinder wire is. Then take the cap off and turn the engine with a ratchet until the timing mark hits TDC. One end of the rotor should line up with the mark you made. If it doesn't then your distributer is off a tooth. Just pull it out until you can just turn the rotor and move it one tooth. If it lines up with your mark when you push it back in it should be good.
So I took the truck out for a little today. Everything seems to be resolved. Even the studdering and jerking it did at a constant speed before. The only thing is I think I still have some tiny timing issue. When I really punch the gas it seems a little sluggish.
As long as it is not Jerking and that is causing the stuttering, lol Im sorry I couldn't help it. ;)
Glad your trucks working better...Is your distributor advancing ok for you, accelerator pump squirting into carb, Vacuum lines all good. Timing should be around 7º BTDC? Should have that on a sticker under hood. Check the burn by looking at plugs, might help show lean or rich. Sluggish sounds like a lean problem.
well the 7degrees is what i can't get. It runs and starts so well, however the last time i checked the timing the mark was around 11 o'clockish. I haven't checked since i got it working so well so maybe it came around and is on the mark now, i'll have to check and get back to you.
I'm assuming by saying 11:00 that your telling us your timing is advanced. Did you disconnect the vacuum advance and plug the hose when checking the timing? If you did and you can't get the timing down to between 7 and 10 degrees at around 800 rpm you might be a bit too lean as Brad mentioned. What kind of timing light are you using?
Well i got her out and started her up, ran a little rough for a couple minutes and then smoothed out. I still think there is a carb issue so i'm going to finally take to to a carb guy to look at and give his 2 cents.
also unfortunately i have a couple drips (half dollar sized) under the engine everytime i park it, so i have a leak somewhere towards the back of the engine, i believe its anti-freeze since thats what i smell, as well as the consistency of color of the liquid under the vehicle matches. unfortunately in my town is impossible to get pressure tubing\hose on this truck now.
can you see around your heater hoses to see if its wet there?
Yeah, i'm pretty sure its coming from somewhere around the heater hoses on the back side of the engine. however, it is reall yhard to see with the air filter on, so i'll hav eto run it for a little someday and then take the air filter and housing off so i can see back there to locate it.
Well the dreaded leak was right where i should have thought it would have been. The valve cover didn't make a good seal towards the back drivers side. I took it apart and found the leak once i could see better back there. i ran it for about 15 miles and it appears that there is no leak yet. Now to get it inspected and registered again, and then take her to the carb guy to work his magic...
So while doing my quarterly backup of all my stuff i found my pictures from 2008 when i replaced the front end of my truck
Attachment 14257Attachment 14258Attachment 14259Attachment 14260
What does the first one go toQuote:
Originally Posted by asmyser
i need to know what the first goes toQuote:
Originally Posted by asmyser
So i dropped a new battery in it this past weekend and took her out for a spin. After some new gas it ran well. But still doesnt seem to be times right or something. Theres alot of rattle at "bogged down"/low rpm running, and im not sure where to start. Ive come to get some help if at all possible, lets see if we cant get it running like its prime again. I appriciate any help anybody can give.
One detail that i believe is important, it idles perfect, for hours
Check that your vacuum advance on the distributor is working. Every distributor I have looked at in JY's have non-functioning vacuum units. This will definitely kill acceleration from a standing start and throttle response. p.s. new genuine distributors are still available from various Mitsubishi parts warehouses from as little as $42 US.
Ok, can you give me some more direction as to how to do that, do you mean for just leaks or anything in particular?
Easy to test it - take the vacuum hose for the distributor advance from the carb end and suck on it. If you can draw air through it without it holding vacuum, the diaphragm inside of it has split. Hopefully this will help to identify the problem and you can get back to enjoying the truck running properly again.
I checked the vacuum, seems fine. Unsure of what to check next.
Anybody else have any ideas for me? I Guess i could always check the timing again.