1985 Dodge Ram 50 2.6L "How do I adjust the throttle cable?/ accelerator pedal"

Hello all, my accelerator pedal kinda has bit more freeplay than prior, as I may have accelerated a bit much at one point. Anyways, I already have adjusted my clutch cable a few times already, but how do I adjust both the throttle cable along with the accelerator pedal at the same time I presume.

I don't think it takes a whole lot, but my main hunch is that I just move it left to right from the middle screw if possible, (also I think it may look just a bit bent up)

(trying to post image if it will allow...)

http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...id=28620&stc=1

For reference, I've gone 7 years already with a stock mikuni rebuilt carb, but unsure if throttle cable requires some major disassembly as well to get it going again as the place I got the rebuild before stated it really isn't worth it to just do one small adjustment with the low cost of a rebuild he is willing to perform. Idk is that true, I see no leaks and the idle and rpms, mpgs appear quite normal as of recent?

http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...id=28621&stc=1
This to me seems quite convincing, although any recommendation would be appreciated as I may give it a crack soon.

UPDATE (think I got it good): I was able to adjust the pedal with the top of the bracket piece pretty easy to do, I think I ended up finding the reason why I had a bit more play however; as there was prior a bit of sticking of throttle feel for a few months now that I recall.

Should I be a bit worried for having to compensate here? (it looks like some type of plastic piece, I just sprayed a bit more cable lube to help out the exposed areas and internals a bit)
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...id=28622&stc=1

http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...id=28623&stc=1

Here is a better view or idea, sorry my image kept failing and I just used file converter and kept going back and forth till it worked....

Yeah, for early trucks like yours, you'd adjust cable slack/pedal free-play by loosening that cable-housing bracket on the valve cover, then gently tug the cable housing away from the carb (i.e. towards the exhaust side) to take up any slack, then re-tighten the housing bracket.

While adjusting the slack, make sure the linkage arm on the carb (the thing the cable acts on) is at-rest and fully seated to its base-idle position (i.e., no fast-idle engaged for the choke or A/C).

Don't pull the housing fully taut; leave a little bit of slack, just enough so the cable at-rest has no tension at all in any circumstance, so the base-idle speed will be determined solely by the idle stop screw, not by cable tension.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by SubGothius

Yeah, for early trucks like yours, you'd adjust cable slack/pedal free-play by loosening that cable-housing bracket on the valve cover, then gently tug the cable housing away from the carb (i.e. towards the exhaust side) to take up any slack, then re-tighten the housing bracket.

While adjusting the slack, make sure the linkage arm on the carb (the thing the cable acts on) is at-rest and fully seated to its base-idle position (i.e., no fast-idle engaged for the choke or A/C).

Don't pull the housing fully taut; leave a little bit of slack, just enough so the cable at-rest has no tension at all in any circumstance, so the base-idle speed will be determined solely by the idle stop screw, not by cable tension.

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Sounds like I got it pretty bang on (idle and deccelaration is clean), made sure I didn't tighten it to max and at least and checked and gave decent enough clearance for both pedal and cable; gave a few hairs of clearance for another few clicks of adjustment on the bar itself in case of later needed adjustment, but overall it felt much better after giving it a good test drive. Will keep my eyes peeled of course.

By chance, I bet you could extend this little bracket if you really needed to gain a bit more tightness in a way huh. Alas thankfully I didn't need it on this occasion.