click, buzzing, but no start

I got a 1992 mighty max 2.4 4g64. The most persistent issue I’ve had was turning it on. I have gotten a new ecu and new starter twice. Ecu clicks on with ignition, small buzzing noise when trying to crank, but no crank. Sometimes I can turn it on, on the first crank, sometimes it’ll take multiple tries, and ive had occasions where it’ll take over 15mins to turn it on (with unplugging battery, unplugging ecu, unplugging starter power). I did receive a fuel pump code, and it went away. I wonder if that could be the problem to my solution. I got a brand new fuel pump unopened. My questions are:

How do I diagnose my fuel pump or confirm that’s the issue?

How do properly replace it? (parts needed, precautions, and trails)

No crank would suggest a faulty starter or solenoid, rather than anything to do with the ECU/injection/ignition systems.

One thing you might try to confirm: with the trans in Neutral and parking brake on, connect a test wire to the small terminal on the starter solenoid, and touch the other end to the battery (+) terminal. If that still doesn't crank the starter, the solenoid or starter is bad. If so, it may not be necessary to completely replace it with a new unit. A local alternator exchange or automotive electrical shop can usually rebuild them for a very affordable price.

However, if that test wire does crank the starter, you may have a failing ignition switch.

Update:
Tested the starter, and got a crank and start.
Tested the pigtail connector that plugs into the starter solenoid, and it also works.
Getting a new ignition switch, to see if I get a consistent crank.

thanks for the help.

I've got this same issue, was this the fix?

Sorry to piggyback off your post but I’m also having issues with my first gen except when I turn the key there’s no lights, crank, or anything. I originally assumed it was a dead battery so I charged it then hooked up nothing. I then tried a battery off a different running vehicle and still nothing. I wasn’t sure if that could be a starter issue since it’s like I’m not even getting any juice to begin with. Any suggestions would be appreciated thank you!

ZachV there are AFAIK two (should be) fusible links off the + battery terminal connected to the main wiring harness ~ these links are just wiring pieces not a fuse... One of my photo albums has photos & I think there is a "sticky" post about this as well... A fried fusible link could be the problem check for continuity...

I think 1st-gens and early 2nd-gens have a box with fusible links mounted to the inner fender on the battery side, like this:

http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...id=28585&stc=1

It should be pretty obvious if one of the links in that box is burnt out; looks like a PO of my truck had already tried to jerry-rig a substitute here:

http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...id=28586&stc=1

Hey Mighty92, sounds like we're chasing the same issue. I've been documenting it here: http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...5733#post85733

Any update on your end? Were you able to source an ignition switch, and did it make a difference?

I've tried "jump staring" the truck by jumping the leads on the back of the ignition switch, which should in theory eliminate the switch as the culprit, and I get the same clicking still. I'm certain I'm hearing the solenoid activate as a part of the "click" sounds, which makes me think maybe it is just a faulty starter. I'm thowing a starter at it and will update my thread when I do. Let me know if you've had any success on your end. Good luck to us both!

Many times bad battery cables are the problem. Resistance builds up over the years. Then all the do is act like heaters when you want lots of current from the battery. Let's not forget many people remove the ground from the block to the cab. And that causes problems all over the place.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by camoit

...Let's not forget many people remove the ground from the block to the cab. And that causes problems all over the place.

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Or it just breaks or oxidizes away, possibly inside the insulation where you can't see it, or the exhaust manifold stud it's connected to can get rusty over the years making for dodgy continuity. Mine seemed possibly fragile (it's an oddly stiff wire), so as a precaution I supplemented it with a braided ground strap in parallel, connected to the rearmost intake manifold stud instead of the exhaust which looked pretty rusted solid.