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the fuel pump won't come out ...
it hits the back of the mikuni carb, that's as far as it goes ...
tried TDC position, does not help, fp lever is far from the cam rod anyway ...
fp slides about 1/2" on the two fp mounting bolts on the engine manifold, then it hits the back of the carb ...
there's another 1/2" or so to go, until the fp could, eventually, get out free ..
must the carb come out ? ... empty the radiator first ?
G54B engine 26.L auto gas
You shouldn't have to remove the carb. (If you do, yes, drain a gallon of coolant first.) If you've turned the engine so the fuel pump arm is on the back of its cam lobe and it still won't come out, try removing one or both mounting studs for the fuel pump using the double nut method.
the cam lobe is on its lowest point, the fp arm is completely not touching the cam for at least 1/2" free playing ...Quote:
Originally Posted by FMS88
double nut to remove the two fp installation studs installed on the engine manifold ? that could work if they come out ...
can't see them studs base, if they are square welded/pressed inserts, or if they are threaded to the manifold itself ...
the fp is on the way to have a clear view, still on the two studs, barely 1/2" out of the manifold spacer towards the driver side direction ...
The fuel pump mounting studs are threaded into the head so they should come out fairly easily. If the studs aren't long enough to allow two nuts and you have a grinder, reduce the thickness of one or both nuts by a millimeter or so. If the gaskets on each side of the spacer aren't glued to the spacer, cut them out to get a little more stud length to work with. I suspect you have removed the valve cover, but if not, do so. Makes working from above much easier.
Or just get a pair of jam nuts from the hardware store; those are half as thick as standard nuts.Quote:
Originally Posted by FMS88
the fuel pump mounting bolts (the studs have threads on both ends, the short end screws into the intake manifold)
are out from the intake manifold with the double nut method,
the old fuel pump is out, with a bit of hammering ... very, very tight ...
the new fp is a Carter from Rockauto, doesn't go in, space is even tighter, the fuel pump rock arm gets stuck
between the jet valve and the head bolt ... way too tight, just not enough clearance ...
can the jet valve be removed & reinstalled without any major issues ?
G54B engine 2.6L auto gas
the fuel pump mounting bolts (the studs have threads on both ends, the short end screws into the intake manifold)
are out from the intake manifold with the double nut method,
the old fuel pump is out, with a bit of hammering ... very, very tight ...
the new fp is a Carter from Rockauto, doesn't go in, space is even tighter, the fuel pump rock arm gets stuck
between the jet valve and the head bolt ... way too tight, just not enough clearance ...
can the jet valve be removed & reinstalled without any major issues ?
G54B engine 2.6L auto gas
Never tried it but can't think of why not as long as the o-ring seal on the jet valve body is in good shape. Even if questionable, a sparing amount of sealer like Permatex will likely suffice.Quote:
Originally Posted by solartony
Alternatively, you could replace all four jet valves with an eliminator kit if one's available.
Remove valve cover & the fuel pump will come off
[QUOTE=xboxrox;85062] Remove valve cover & the fuel pump will come off[/QUOTE
... fp hits against the back of the Mikuni carb 32-35DIDTA ...
was able to 'push' it out,
by removing the valve cover, and hit the end of the fp arm, from the passenger side, over the cam,
with a long extension rod, and a hammer,
very carefully but hard, to force the fp barrel over the egr(?) valve on the carb, and the fp arm
slowly slide between the head bolt & the air jet valve ....
however, the new fp Carter M70293 can't go in, won't, can't go in, without
taking the carb out ... the fp arm won't slide between the head bolt & the air jet valve ...
the Mikuni carb has 5 bolts to attach to the manifold ...
4 hexagon head bolts are easy to locate around the double barrels opening, in a rectangle configuration, ...
where's the fifth bolt ? ... towards the front of the truck ? towards the back ?
5th bolt driver side front at base of carb (short bolt) when reinstalling this bolt use plumbers teflon tape if the threads don't reach torque spec...
...the mikuni carb has 5 bolts, 4 around the twin barrels, easy to identify,
the 5th somewhere, the manual doesn't say nor shows whereabouts ...
where is it, anybody knows or has a picture ?
G54B engine 2.6L AT Mikuni 32-35DIDTA carb
unable to find it, is it a hex head ? ... phillips ? ... other ?Quote:
Originally Posted by xboxrox
The fifth fixing point (not sure if screw or bolt) is next to and to the front of the sub-EGR valve at the base of the carb. In this ad for the base gasket, the fifth point is at the extreme end of the arm of the gasket image. (The hole at about 4-oclock in the image and farthest from the carburetor bores.) The sub-EGR valve is just below the accelerator pump if you're looking at the driver's side of the carb.Quote:
Originally Posted by solartony
https://us.amazon.com/Fel-Pro-60657-.../dp/B000C2E5FM
thx FMS, ... found it .. different bolt ... actually, not a bolt but a nut that bolts to a stud mounted on the manifold body ....lower, much lower than the four other bolts at the top, to the right & front of the main carb body, low, on a eyelet ...the carb schematics i have from Mikuni for the 32-35DIDTA carb don't even show any of the installation bolts/nuts, best guess location for the 5th mounting bolt (nut) is under the EGR valve ....Quote:
Originally Posted by FMS88
next on the list, is to find a fuel pump that fits the bill ...
rockauto fp arm is way too thick, won't pass between the head bolt & the jet air valve body ...
yes, the mikuni carb MUST come out from the manifold ... 4 bolts, 1 nut ...
no need to disconnect the carb, just carefully push it aside to the back, with hoses/wires connected ...
the original fp is kyosan denki 3F03D 1-5 made in japan
i think that the fp oem magic pn number is #1093 ... arm made of two thin plates welded together
solid arm is TOO THICK ...
but where to find one ?
Search P/Ns MD027080 and MD072437. These apply to '84 model years which is the oldest year listed in my parts book, but some distributor websites state they apply to even earlier models. Their illustrations fit your description of two plates welded together although there's a third at the tip to widen the surface that contacts the cam. Ebay also has Kyosan pumps that are retrieved with the P/N search.