82 2.0 Carb

Well time has come and my old trusty D50 needs a new carb. Truck has close to 800,000 miles on it now. Was looking at my options and rockauto has one option for $411.99, but I also know Weber makes them. Not really sure if ebay is the best place or not to nab one and I'm not sure what the part number is on it either. Is it a direct bolt on to the factory intake and if so then is it even worth getting with how many miles mine has?

Thanks in advance! Also making a post in the few Facebook groups for our trucks.

Key thing is to look for a genuine Weber 32/36 DGEV or DFEV made in Spain, not the "licensed" Chinese clones -- which only licensed use of the Weber name/logo and general design, but aren't made to the same exacting tolerances and thus often can't be tuned to run properly in all conditions.

Genuine Webers have a rough/dull finish to the castings, with the Weber name/logo and "Made in Spain" cast right into the body, whereas the Chinese clones have a smooth/bright finish and the Weber name/logo only on a decal, tag, or ink stamp. Electric choke covers can also be a clue; genuine Webers are ivory plastic whereas the Chinese clones are black plastic, but these aren't a dead giveaway since they're interchangeable -- e.g., to convert a water-choke genuine Weber to electric choke, or to try making a Chinese clone look more like a genuine Weber at a glance.

The carb won't bolt directly to your stock manifold, so you'll need an adapter. Most folks use the Redline Weber adapter kit p/n 99004.130 or 99004.135; these look identical AFACT, not sure what the difference is, but the .135 version says it's for 2.0 and 2.6 engines (whereas the .130 only says 2.6). I used the Trans-Dapt 2107 adapter instead, which rises the carb about an inch higher for slightly better torque at a tradeoff of peak HP, but this also meant there wasn't enough clearance underhood to mount the stock air cleaner (with yet another adapter for that), so I had to use a lower-profile air filter solution instead.

Redline Weber kits K610 and K614 include the carb, adapter, and various other bits you'll need. K614 comes with a DFEV which is required for auto trans (to mount a kickdown linkage) but also preferable for manual trans. K610 comes with a DGEV, which basically a mirror-image of the DFEV and is easier to find and thus cheaper but entails some complications.

The DGEV is simplest to mount with the fuel float bowl towards the rear, which is suboptimal as this can cause stumbling/stalling under hard braking. Mounting it with the bowl in front is preferable but requires flipping over the throttle cable guide/bracket at the firewall and bending it slightly for the cable housing to clear the brake booster and master cylinder. The DFEV can be mounted bowl in front with no modification to the stock throttle cable routing, making that preferable if you don't mind spending more for it.

It's also advised to install an electric fuel pump along with a relay to power it directly off the battery, triggered by the ignition-on circuit. The stock mechanical fuel pump puts out too much pressure for a Weber, and just adding a pressure regulator strains the mech pump, eventually killing it prematurely. Mount the electric pump close to the fuel tank as low as feasible. I really like the Carter P90091 pump, reliable with smooth fuel delivery and native PSI perfect for Webers, no regulator needed.