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Long story short I'm on a road trip with the new 87 ram 50, about an hour North of my destination it started getting hot and running rough. Can carb adjustment, timing, and spark plugs be the issue? I think I've ruled out the cooling system being a fault. I pulled the spark plugs and although they're not horribly fouled, there's just a very faint weak yellow spark through each of them. It's the Webber carb, and I have not messed with it but I think it's running a little rich
hello dodgy71
Ignition timing can cause overheating especially too advanced ~ check timing
How did you test the cooling system integrity?
An old ignition switch played tricks on me ~ replaced it & missfires went away
Good Luck Fixing & Enjoy the Ride
George
Have you replaced the coil? They have a working life span of approx 10 years before they start to break down. If it's not giving a strong spark, it will fail to operate efficiently and burn fuel during the ignition cycle. This would explain the 'rich' fuel mixture symptoms. If the coil is the culprit, dial in your ignition tune once you've installed the new one. Don't use anything exotic for a replacement coil - Accel and MSD do not play nicely with Mitsubishi ignition systems. A transformer coil with a ballast resistor will be a good upgrade, look on eBay -
https://www.ebay.com/itm/12514187636...gAAOSw3o1hE5P6 (here's a start)
The head was just all re done and new water pump, funny thing I completely removed the thermostat to see how it acted= heated up to the red in about 2 mins.Quote:
Originally Posted by xboxrox
At this point I would just like to figure out how I'm gonna make it back home with this thing
I hope things go well for you. Nothing worse than being far from home with an engine acting up.Quote:
Originally Posted by dodgy71
Have you looked at the radiator (exterior) ? Dust and bugs can plug up air flow through it. Flushing it out from the fan side might dislodge that gunk, and help with cooling. I am also in agreement that it sounds like the coil isn't functioning at its best.
Good luck, and let us know how you fared :).
With the thermostat entirely removed, it heated up to the red? Not just midway on the gauge? That would suggest some other issue with your cooling system, maybe a plugged radiator since you say the water pump is new.Quote:
Originally Posted by dodgy71
Normally in a case like that, I'd suggest taking it to a radiator shop to have the core rodded out, but since you're on the road, maybe see if a radiator flush product helps enough to get it home without overheating. Leave the flush product in the system overnight, then if it's able to run without overheating by next day, leave it in for the drive home and drain once you get there.
Definitely not a tuning issue. Run it with the heater on full while driving to take some of the stress off the cooling system. Not great for you but better than frying a cylinder head/engine. Good advice from SubG. Place your hand on the front of the radiator and feel for temperature anomalies like cool spots - it will tell you how bad it's plugged up. If it makes it home alive I would try removing the radiator and filling it with a solution of citric acid and hot water and let it sit for a few hours. I'd even take a heat gun to it to help the solution to break up the debris in the cores (go easy on the heat gun and try not to keep the hot air concentrated on one spot for too long as it can get hot enough to sweat the solder)
Nothing worse than getting stranded a long way from home. Hope you get back without too much grief.
Try installing a new radiator cap
I watched this video: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=evpaTW2WJ5Y
I think I'll try to flush the rad./cooling system, is there a recommended product to use?
I managed to get it home slowly. The coolant flush I ran through it did not help. I have no idea what the problem is.
Did you feel any cold spots on your radiator and what is the return radiator hose like? You said that recently replaced the water pump too - is it cycling water properly?
Install a NEW RADIATOR CAPQuote:
Originally Posted by dodgy71
soda crystals (as in the stuff in the cleaning isle of the supermarket) and let soak over nightQuote:
Originally Posted by dodgy71
The top and bottom get too hot to touch, the middle is cool to the touch, tells me it's not circulatingQuote:
Originally Posted by geezer101
The top and bottom get too hot to touch, the middle is cool to the touch, tells me it's not circulatingQuote:
Originally Posted by geezer101
Just a suggestion: remove the radiator and turn it upside down, flush it that way and see what comes out. Also, while it's out, you can see if impacted dirt/bugs are clogging the fins.
I would still recommend taking the radiator out and using one of the descaling methods suggested. It is better to not try to flush the radiator while it's in the truck as you will want to ensure all of the flushing agent is cleaned out. Soda crystals or citric acid powder dissolved in warm water - both of these aren't aggressive enough to attack metal directly for the short term. Let it soak for a few hours, drain the solution into a bucket and reverse flush it with a garden hose or a shop pressure cleaner if you have one, then flush it from the top inlet pipe. Heating the cores while filled with the flushing agent with a hot air gun will cause the scale and calcification to expand and break apart. Reuse the solution if you think it needs a second treatment.
*I used this method on a copper/brass radiator and fragments of built up scale came out looking like aquarium fish food flakes. I found the citric acid solution did dissolve some of the garbage but using a hot air gun I could audibly hear the scale cracking and lifting off the inside of the core tubes.
I'll give that a try, thanks
Be sure to let us know the results.
I back-flushed my radiator, upside-down, and it was amazing the crap that came out of it. Also, the fins were clogged with dirt and bugs - getting that off made a huge difference in cooling. Good Luck!
Have deduced it is the radiator, while I'm shopping for a new one I have the old one soaking with some CLR, we'll see what happens
If your thermostat was in place when it overheated, you need to replace it: my understanding is that overheating kills thermostats.
Yes 2nd that royster ~ I was really anal about concern for overheating, especially after learning the 2.6L engine is prone to blowing head gaskets heads from overheating ~ my truck's cooling system history 1) added Barhs Leaks to stop vapor trail from tailpipe 2) added Barhs Leaks to stop coolant loss 3) same as #2 AND I installed Mitsubishi OEM new thermostat & new Mitsubishi OEM radiator cap, all good lately...Quote:
Originally Posted by royster
NOTES:
1) My trucks eng temp gauge never worked from 2011 to 2014 we just wondered why the needle always rose up to 1/4 and never changed until turning off the engine ~ THEN one day the eng temp gauge needle went up to approx 1/2 and we thought the truck was going to overheat but it did not ~ I musta bumped the sender wire while working on the distributor Yikes..! A bumb gauge reading can play havoc or at least fool you
2) I only use 50/50 premixed coolant & drain it out every year or two ~ that way the mixture stays exactly new and 50/50 as should be ~ I used to run around buying distilled water and mixing match blah blah big waste of time & money
Thats All
I had overheat problems. I ended up getting an all aluminum radiator. Before I switched it out I did a flush I found. I got some TSP powder from the Home Despot paint department. I put a 1lb box of it in a gallon of distilled water, you have to dump some of the water unless you use a bucket. With system drained i added that and filled it with distilled water the same way you fill it after you put in a new WP. You got to run it until the thermostat opens and have the heater on so it circulates through. Then run it to full temp and idle a while, then let it cool. Repeat several times. You might even drive it around the block. Then flush the motor several times. I think I did it 4 or 5 times. Then I installed the new radiator. I also added a 2nd gen overflow bottle which is larger than the OE bottle for the 2.0 but it fits in the same spot.
When I was done I had heat for the first time since I owned this thing! The overheating doesn't happen as much now. It used to get into the red whenever i was at a stop in the summer now it doesn't do that unless I have a load. Small victories huh? :) I still lose coolant, I might have to rebuild before they stop making the parts to do it on this thing. :)
Getting parts is getting tougher :mysterymachine: try getting a rebuilt 1983 to 1986 4X4 steering gearbox ~ PickNPull only has 2WD trucks in their yards now
dodgy try these guys for a radiator #115 is 4X4 truck & #700 is RWD truck ~https://www.radiator.com/Shop