G63B issues !!!Stumped!!!

Well I have had this old girl for a bit ( 85 ram 50) has the G63B the previous owner a retired engineer rebuilt the engine due to a spun rod bearing truck has 174k engine is at roughly 10k ish since the rebuild when I got the truck it idled great drove great really surprised me how peppy the engine was.... Well here I am now so these are my symptoms.

1. After driving and shutting it off it diesels a good bit
I have heard they are known to do this tried all the ways to fix it returned and rebuilt my Weber 32/36 and it ran better and did not deisel for 2 weeks of driving.

2. Used to rev easy past 4k I don't always do it but sometimes the ol lead foot gets me when getting on the interstate now it seems to somewhat struggle to get past 3500 like you have to sit on the throttle for a good bit so recently I shift at 2k-2,5k and have stayed off major interstates due to this.

3. Starting issues after sitting for a day it does not like to start did this before and after the 32/36 rebuild new plugs,wires,coil (borrowing it from a friend) choke is working and adjusted properly strange thing is if i crank on it for 8 seconds and quickly let go of the key it starts.

4. On start up it is random I hear a loud ticking assuming it is a jet valve? Or somthing else oil pressure hits 80 on 3 gauges I have tested 1 digital 2 mechanical after warmed up cruising stays around 40-45psi and at idle 10-13psi the ticking is not all the time I have not had the valve cover off.

Now I have checked the timing and it is set accordingly at 8* at idle with vac hose connected at 2k rpm I am seeing 28-30* assuming that is ok now I have checked cam,crank timing and from what I can tell it's spot on I have no idea if I still have balance shafts but will find out here soon in the next coming weeks if so I'll delete them.

And to add the egr is still on the engine just not connected and has glue or some type of stuff on the ports blocking them off I plan to delete it if I can find a bolt on plate might have to make my own oh well still have the cast exhaust manifold planning on going to a header if it ever gets built haha so I got a few bugs to work out it seems any advice or tips would be great.

http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...1&d=1619511038 here is a photo of my G63B the day I bought the truck looks the same now just well with a but more dirt road dust and a bit more red clay

What fuel pump is running the Weber? They hate high fuel pressure (no more than 3-3.5psi) And what is the base idle like? If it's a little on the high side it will encourage the engine to try and 'run on' after the ignition is killed. Is the coil in good shape? A weak coil will break down under load which will result in loss of power and an increase in fuel usage. What oil are you using? Might need to factor in a heavier weight oil (especially in summer) and is it a mechanical head or hydraulic? It may only need adjusting if it's a mechanical head*.

*ignore the book on this one. With the engine warmed up to full operating temperature, adjust each of the lash adjusters by feel. Just a little rock when the lash adjusters are off the valves. Get it right even with feeler gauges and it'll sound like a typewriter...

Fuel pressure I have not yet checked its the oem fuel pump,coil I borrowed it was brand new till it seen my truck still using the ballist resistor inline with it oil is royal purple 10-40 and cyl head wise I'm pretty sure it's mechanical and it randomly ticks not all the time so has me a bit confused using a stethoscope I can hear it coming from between 3,4 on top end. I will be getting a fuel gauge soon to check the weber make sure it's not getting rammed with fuel pressure

Hm, if you've been using the OEM mechanical fuel pump with a pressure regulator to suit the Weber, the backpressure from that regulator may have killed the pump. The way to avoid that is to install a Tee between the pump and regulator, and feed the side branch of that Tee to the stock fuel-return line.

Or you can install an electric pump with native PSI low enough for the Weber, or a higher-pressure one paired with your regulator. I really like the Carter P90091 pump for any Weber on any car -- native PSI is perfect, and it outputs a smooth, continuous flow (rather than pulsing like a piston-action solenoid-driven pump), so no need for a regulator.

*do not delete the ballast resistor (not saying you are thinking of doing it...) as it will roast everything 'downstream' of the coil. Mechanical heads always have some noise and the ones that you can actually hear probably need some fine adjusting. Royal purple is good stuff and seeming the engine wasn't rebuilt that long ago in the scheme of things you shouldn't have oil pressure issues. Instead of using a 'T' fitting, you could try a 3 barb fuel filter. It works in a similar way to the old OEM fuel recirculation cannister. It will drop pressure by bypassing some of the fuel back to the tank via the return line connection.

As far as I know there is no fuel pressure regulator just the oe. Fuel pump straight to the weber I also am suspecting this weber is a clone it's been decent but stuff not adding up on it screams clone also I heard horror stories of ballist resistor deletes I figure I'll check fuel pressure see how it's looking then if it needs a regulator I got one for it with a return if it's like 1psi over I might do the old filter trick geezer mentioned

Also checked the diaphragm on my dizzy seems it might be a bit weak also I can't find a oem filter on the truck I remember reading it being near the fuel tank instead of under the hood I doubt it's been changed ever so I might wanna do that.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Gremlin50D

I also am suspecting this weber is a clone it's been decent but stuff not adding up on it screams clone

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Easy way to tell: the genuine article have the Weber name/logo and "Made in Spain" cast right into the body, whereas clones only have branding on a decal, tag, or ink stamp at most.

Note also there's two different models of Weber typically installed on our trucks, approximate mirror images of each other, so don't get tripped up by that. The DG-series are a newer design, somewhat blockier and tidier-looking than their mirror-image predecessor, the DF-series, which are a bit more rounded and busy-looking and have a diamond/oval-shaped raised flange on top that the DG*s don't.

IMO the DF-series are probably the better option for our trucks, as they can readily be oriented with the float bowl in front, which helps avoid stalling when braking to a stop, slightly leans the mixture doing downhill, and slightly richens it going uphill.

If you didn't perform the Weber swap yourself, it's also possible the PO who did used some other, older Weber model entirely, or something else similar like a Holley 5200-series which was a licensed derivative of the DF-series used on many US domestic models of the era and readily available from junkyards.

I wish it was a holley 5210 worked on a few of those also my Weber has no markings on it other than one spot and it just says Weber the adaptor plate I don't think it said anything when I had the carb off for a deep clean but I did notice any adjustments made to it the carb was very sensitive to it it very well might be a guinuine or a good knock off next time I take it off I will double down on verifying it.

No casting mark with the Weber 'W' on the side of the float bowl, or Weber on the fuel bowl top cover/choke release covers etc would indicate it's a knock off. The knock offs actually look 'better' due to how bright the grade of cast alloy they're made out of - sort of a blue colour. That is a definite red flag. Some debate over the electric choke cover being black or white but that isn't a 100% guarantee especially with buying a used Weber as someone easily could've bought a replacement from somewhere.

*try cleaning and lubing up the timing advance base plate in the distributor. If it's gummed up it will be laggy with it's advance response.

The EGR is fine not being hooked up. It’s just a plug at that point.
as for the engine run on. AKA. Dieseling. You need to preform a lean drop on the carb. There is a Weber manual in the manual section in the sticky area under the factory first gen manual.
As for slowing loosing power get a new coil. As they go bad. They have a hard time in the higher RPM ranges.
oil pressure can be the pressure relief spring is good bad or it’s a pump problem.
OR if it had the balance shaft removed. It might be he didn’t cover the holes properly when putting the bearings in that come with the delete kit. Or if it still has them they are wiped out and should be removed.