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so i have been having problems with my key not budging when i put it in the ignition. i have replaced the ignition switch, and that didnt fix my problem. my grandfather, when he had the truck, installed a push button start that you still had to turn the key over for. i was wondering if it would be possible to just completely bypass the key and install a hidden switch that i can combine with the push button to start my truck.
Sure, you could just remove the ignition lock entirely and connect those wires to a switch.
Not sure offhand if it's possible to remove the steering lock but keep the ignition tumbler in place to look stock, to make it a less tempting theft target.
Entirely possible. Even get a generic key switch and hide it somewhere and have a starter button separate. You just want to have an off, an accessory, and an o.
N position.
Sounds like there may be something bent or not moving at the opposite end of the switch tho.
ive looked into replacing the whole switch assembly, but i figured it would be cooler or more interesting to have the push to start option.
Its all the same in terms of wiring, have a look through the manuals section for your wiring diagram.
I mentioned the generic 3 position key because they are small and can be hidden under the dash or where ever pretty easy. and that way you dont have a bunch of toggle switches to mess with to get your off, accessory, and on. Then you just run a button to the starter relay
Im partial to a vintage style floor starter. Start the car with both hands on the steeringwheel is a bit of a party trick now days.
Hello Sunday Mornin ~ at www.MitsubishiPartsCentral.com (it's a Texas Mitsubishi Dealership Parts Dept web site) they've been great for me especially a now retired parts dept guy named Gary which I think he still helps them from home if no parts guys are around when needed... Anyway, in my experience with the ignition switch, Gary was able to get me the last one in stock for my 1986 truck... The tumbler lock is separate from the ignition switch but I never tried to buy one of those... I did need to replace my ignition key because I lost it in the ocean at Bellows beach (duh) Gary sent me factory Mitsubishi key blanks which are still available (abt $7.00 each..?) Please look at my photo album with photos of the ignition switch because it does not use all the connectors available but I (think) similar ign switches that use all the connections are still available & might be able to modify to use in our trucks..? Google images of ignition switches (or tumblers) for Chrysler products in years of vehicles near our year vehicles... If MPC can't get you a new tumbler lock then maybe a foreign source from Australia, Thailand or Singapore has em ~ use the google image search method & the truck is called a L200 overseas...
Enjoy the Fix,
George
gee, I must be getting old (?) I remember all the cars trucks & tractors had those floor switches & a floor switch for dimming the lights too & vacuum powered windshield wiper motors (step on the gas & the wipers would quit wiping LOL) and the clutch & brake pedals went through the floorboard not hung from under the dash ~ I am not that old though coz I don't know how to use all the levers & gadgets on Ford Model T's & Ford Model A's but my neighbors 54 Ford had a flathead engine & I learned how to adjust ignition timing on my favorite engine in High School Auto Shop class (a Dodge Red Ram V8)Quote:
Originally Posted by tortron
yea, i was planning to do that. ill have to check my manual and try some stuff out.
this is what its called. i just couldnt for the life of me remember what the metal part was called. they dont seem to be too expensive, about 60-70 when i looked up the whole assembly. i still think it would be cooler to do a hidden key system, but i wont cross off just replacing it.Quote:
Originally Posted by xboxrox
Are you sure it's not just the steering lock binding up against the locking pawl on the ignition key tumbler? This can happen when you remove the key and then turn the wheel until the steering lock engages. When it happens, see if you can turn the wheel slightly one way or the other to release the tension on that pawl, then try turning the key again.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sunday Mornin
HEY Sub ~ you're really on the ball, lottsa cars have that steering wheel lock but you are the educator here, good thinking..! I'm chiming in only because I experienced sumpthin steering wheel different driving my truck today ~ the steering wheel is not centered since Vernon worked on the steering gear box (will center it later) anyway with the wheel off center it adversly affects the turn signal stalk in that it won't stay engaged 'n gotta constantly hold it to get & keep a turn signal on ~ lesson learned for me...
Similar thing happened when I had mine aligned. Apparently there's only one tierod adjuster (at least on my 2WD setup), so when the shop used that to adjust the toe, it resulted in the steering wheel being a bit off-center while driving straight. Guess we have to pull and rotate the steering wheel by one spline when this happens, or maybe the Pitman arm is splined to do this as well.
And yeah, there's a certain steering wheel position in each direction where the signal stalk won't catch because it's right on the self-cancel release mechanism.
So now my '87 has started having the same problem Sunday Mornin reported above -- even with the wheel off the steering lock pawl, the key wouldn't turn. Finally figured out how to jiggle it just the right way, perpendicular to the key blade, to get it to turn, but obvs. that isn't a long-term solution.
Also found out this model year doesn't have a lock cylinder made to pop out and swap easy; it's held in with a blind-ended roll pin AND apparently crimped into the whole steering lock assembly. So much for my idea of just removing the key pins to make it look stock but turnable with any key or screwdriver.
Since I've apparently gotta replace that entire assembly, anyone know if one with a swappable lock cylinder can be retrofitted, maybe from another year or Mitsu model? That way I could at least get a full rekey kit to keep the doors and ignition matched.
I've removed the ignition to column locking mechanism completely before by cutting slots into the security bolts and unscrewing them. I haven't disassembled a locking mechanism though and as it's only a shaft with a key barrel on it, why not try taking it apart and repairing it? The trick will obviously be pulling out the roll pin holding the key barrel to get to it's innards. It may only need a clean out and application of fresh lube to get it to free up, or the tumbler pins or springs may need replacing (if you get this far do NOT lose any springs or pins in the tumbler or mess up the orientation or it won't matter what you do after that...) I've taken apart household locking barrels before to remove broken keys and it only takes patience and basic tools. If this turns into a bum deal you can buy a 4 position ignition switch assembly and mount it into the dash or go race mode with a push button gang switch panel and/or a power isolator switch with a removable key. Both of those options are cheap and easy to install. You lose the column lock but you can use an old school steering wheel lock. They have a 'meh' attitude towards them but, if fitted with the lock facing the instrument panel it makes them a biatch to remove forcibly.
Already Dremeled a slot in the security bolts to get the assembly off with a screwdriver. As for the lock tumbler, it's not just the roll pin holding it in; the flange of the steering lock housing where the cylinder fits in is crimped around the edge of the cylinder, so I'd have to cut or pry that away well enough to free up the cylinder to remove it, then upon reassembly somehow crimp it back around the cylinder or just leave it cut-off and rely on the roll pin alone to hold it in -- pretty dodgy either way.
I have an ignition switch and both door locks with the keys, I'll mail it to you for $50. Make it right. I can also cut keys if you have the code.
Thanks for the offer, but mine seems to be working fine again now after a thorough flush with Brakleen, fresh lubrication, and a new ignition electrical switch. :thumbup:
Quote:
Originally Posted by d50Lewis
Hello do you still have it???