Carburetor, Vacuum 4 way connectors, Ported thermal switch, Performance exhaust ?

Hey guys,

So I sent the carburetor off to be rebuilt, came back looking sweet, installed it.

I don’t have all the 4 and 3 way vacuum tees to finish reconnecting every circuit, need a Weber guy to kindly sell me their rats nest of vacuum hoses for an 89’ 2.6L also need the 4 way thermal ported switch mine has one broken nipple (I may be able to fix it).

Preliminary results point towards a 2x increase in mpg, truck runs very smooth and is very torquey. I suspect the carburetor had punctured diaphragms ?

Would like to get the rest of the circuits running (i.e. egr.. etc...)

So far the carburetor rebuild and install has made this rig 100% drivable, hallelujah ! The Wifey even said .. Honey take me for a spin... I got it one piece at a time - Yeah whatever - I’m old. The truck speakers I bought absolutely rock btw. Retrosound.

One last thing, will this starter work on the 2.6L ?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/254371448570


I can PayPal or send funds through the mail for any parts.

Thanks for all the encouragement and help, next up will be header install and new exhaust. Bought a new 8” x 32” truck muffler with 2” in/out @ an estate sale for $2. My hope is to have an entirely new 2” performance exhaust that will be super quiet. Zoom. Zoom.


Kenny B.

If you've got a Weber carb, and don't have smog eqpt. inspections in your area, the only vac hoses you really need would be for the brake booster, PCV valve on the the cam cover, and the vacuum advance on the distributor.

If you don't have smog tailpipe tests, the vac advance can be fed from the barb in the base of the carb or the "tree" of barbs in the intake manifold. If you do need to pass an idle test, you'd use the barb slightly higher up from the base.

All the other vac barbs on the carb and manifold can be plugged with a cap or a short length of vac hose connecting pairs of barbs (less prone to heat-cracking than using separate caps for every barb). Vac barbs not on the carb or manifold themselves can be left open.

I am not using a Weber.

Im looking for the vacuum lines for the stock carburetor.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by SubGothius

If you've got a Weber carb, and don't have smog eqpt. inspections in your area, the only vac hoses you really need would be for the brake booster, PCV valve on the the cam cover, and the vacuum advance on the distributor.

If you don't have smog tailpipe tests, the vac advance can be fed from the barb in the base of the carb or the "tree" of barbs in the intake manifold. If you do need to pass an idle test, you'd use the barb slightly higher up from the base.

All the other vac barbs on the carb and manifold can be plugged with a cap or a short length of vac hose connecting pairs of barbs (less prone to heat-cracking than using separate caps for every barb). Vac barbs not on the carb or manifold themselves can be left open.

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The starter motor might not fit I DUNNO ~ I checked NAPA O'Reillys they don't show starters for automatic transmission 1989 Ram50 THATS WEIRD the ebay starter is for automatic tranny ~ is your truck an automatic? If so then it might fit ~ I posted a starter motor thread but can't answer your question :shrug: