Need Help-Stall When Idling

Okay guys need some real help here.

I purchased my 1994 Mighty Max (2.4L) two days ago. When I bought it, it ran, but was a tad rough while idling, the PO thought it may be a misfire. I replaced the Distrubutor, Wires, and Spark Plugs today, and now the motor dies while idling. Cold or Warmed up, it sounds like it’s struggling for a few seconds, then dies. If I put my foot down then it will rev up and the motor sounds fine, but will die as soon as it idles down.

Someone recommended that I clean the EGR valve so I did, it was definitely very dirty, but I cleaned it out, and no change. What else could be causing the issue? It’s odd that this only started happening AFTER new plugs/wires/distributor.

By chance have u tried adjusting the throttle cable or tried adjusting the small screws on the throttle body/fuel delivery system? if so, according to which one there is good news and bad lol. If you just tried to adjust the idle by the cable unit then most likely you have it out of sync with the other side of the cable. I mean there should be 2 adjusting screws on the throttle arm. Mine has a top and a side/bottom cable if u tighten one, let's say the top one (the most obvious) to where it stops before bottoming out.. like back in the good old days with carbs, then the side/bottom cable adjuster is way loose, if u tighten it then the top cable will be way tight. it has to be equal on both sides so to speak. look up the throttle cable adjustment specs in your Haynes or Chilton manual etc., then follow how it says to adjust it properly.
Now, the second question about the small screw adjusters for the air fuel mixture, if you have changed it by turning any of those on the throttle body/fuel rail etc.. then u will most likely have to go to a shop to get it all resynced. its synced at the factory and there really isnt a layman way to reset.
How i knw this is because i'm havin the same or similar issue with my 1990 2.6L (4G63) it was not shifting right and seemed to be idled to slow, oh also check timing and make sure that it is correct, anyways, i only tried to adjust the cable, well afterwards it was lobbing afterward, so tried again, well got better until it get reg oper temp came out of fast tik, then the wheels would slide to a stop, tried a 3rd time, now its back to lobbing a;little but coming to a stop light/sign it will idle down so low it almost stalls. If i have to wait too long it does and then i have to start it again etc. So its in the cable adjustment for as my issue. So check that avenue as well. but stalling is because of it not receiving enough fuel and or not in adjustment of the delivery system. also make sure ur distributor is set correctly.
Hope this helps
regards
Knight

^The 4G64 is an EFI engine so only throttle cable slack would apply to the situation. Does it do anything else? Are there any weird clicking noises or sucking sounds coming from the intake manifold? Maybe the IAC needs cleaning or is faulty.

first things first, you need to check the ecm for cap leak. the efi trucks will do all sorts of things but its usually missfires or stalling. second thing is to make sure you did not but cheap junky napa plug wires, they are crap. if they are the lowest quality ones they have on the shelf than you need to get rid of them. i bet if you popped the hood at night and take a look in the dark you will see a lightshow. once you get the ecm out post a pick of it. after that we can start working down the line of most likely probable causes. these trucks are simple and most issues are with the ecm on the efi models.

Hey, final fighter, my truck has brand new NAPA's cheapest spark plug wire set & cheapest coil ~ do you have any better product suggestions ? THANKS MAN

I'd look at AC Delco (reliable), NGK (quality leads at a budget-ish price), then a good brand of 8mm silicon wire with spiral wound stainless steel inner windings (gonna cost you, but are a step up on quality and durability) Get a sachet of electrolytic grease for the lead ends - especially with the expensive leads as they can be difficult to pull off and I've had the inner terminals stay jammed on, resulting in the stainless windings being torn out of the leads (yeah that was just great :bang:)

Thanks geezer ~ MSD Ignition Installation instructions for MSD6 states metal core wire spark plug wires will not work with their unit ~ doubt I would ever have a MSD ignition so/but some sort of spiral wound wire set will work ~ so far I have not located quality spark plug wire sets for four cyl engines ?¿?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by xboxrox

Thanks geezer ~ MSD Ignition Installation instructions for MSD6 states metal core wire spark plug wires will not work with their unit ~ doubt I would ever have a MSD ignition so/but some sort of spiral wound wire set will work ~ so far I have not located quality spark plug wire sets for four cyl engines ?¿?

---

This might not be well received but... MSD6A is a waste of money on these engines. A good solid state coil (transformer type) will yield a strong consistent spark over the oil cooled coil. The spiral wound kits are around. I can get them here in Oz - "Top Gun - TG4400 spark plug lead kit" and a company called "Eagle" has their own premium product in different diameter plug leads.

This would be the type of ignition coil I'd recommend as an OEM replacement for the old type of coils - https://www.ebay.com/itm/Herko-Ignit...Cclp%3A2334524

(not necessarily this one but you get the idea...) :thumbup:

WoW THANX geezer ~ worked on the truck @ the military DIY auto shop (Five O Motors) and the mechanics there helped me a lot ~ tested the distributor vacuum advance IT IS NO GOOD the actuator diaphram is NO GOOD ~ adjusted the initial timing to 8°BTDC ~ they think I should adjust the idle air/fuel mixture screw & they said the tamper plugs are hardened metal use a dremel grinder to make a slot ~ Finally the Made in China laser tach broke after one use

ALOHA GUYS

If the vac advance diaphragm was perished, that would present a vacuum leak that can cause a lean misfire, so make sure you plug that hose or cap the barb its other end attaches to.

As for a useful tach, just get a basic dwell-tach meter off eBay or wherever, hooks up to your coil (+) terminal and any ground.

You kidding me? The tach died after one bout? And I looked up NGK leads - so much for being a budgetish option (seen them up to $100 AUD - what the hell...) It was weird that the Top Gun lead kits could be bought SO cheaply. I had a set (which I destroyed trying to remove a lead off a plug - bye bye $80 AUD) and they were pretty good. The bad vac advance distributors have been an issue for me as well. Zilch chance of finding a good used one in a yard, and there are a few different designs of vac servos so you have to know what you need.

Messing with the distributor timing will get it 'drivable' but it'll have a pretty ordinary torque/acceleration curve, or it'll rattle if you try to compensate for lack of advance. The dead vac advance is the last piece of the puzzle by the looks of it.

SubGothius and geezer ~ dang straight shooting trouble shooting you two !! As for me, I would have never thought about plugging a vacuum leak in the supply hose ~ THANX SUB ~ There is a slight miss in the driving of this truck ~ geezer the puzzle might be almost done but fixing & replacing never seems to end ~ NOVA TV show about an African Wildlife Park had clips of the people driving new tan colored 4X4 Toyota 2 door pickup trucks with every bell and whistle OEM fording kits etc the works <---- No :vacuum: leaks on those trucks ;^)

EDIT: YEP dead laser tach after one use - there is no ON/OFF switch and after 7 days it drained the 9 volt battery to 1.3 volts -- a new battery got the laser working fine but no RPM reading registers on the screen RIPOFF -- I will contact Summit Racing 'n see what they might do or say -- I should also enter a product review -- maybe removing the battery when not being used could be a fix ?

MY APOLOGIES THREAD JACKING :thumbdown:

DJWAMI,
--- the "rebuilt " distributor ---