oil leaking from oil pan gasket/"front case"

As stated in my title, I've got a visibly faulty oil pan gasket, but the gasket sits so close to the timing cover that its hard to diagnose if its only the oil pan gasket or if its possibly coming from somewhere else up near the front of the engine. This is where the majority of the leak is coming from (see pics). The oil pools up in the bottom of the skid plate and drips out from there. I'm just curious if anyone has any input on exactly what to check/ replace before I go shooting in the dark. I have a new oil pan gasket, "crankshaft seal kit" from NAPA P/N FPG TCS455651, which I believe comes with a new oil filter housing gasket, and some new belts I'm going to throw on once I'm in there. I haven't torn into it yet to further diagnose just because I'm still waiting on a few of the gaskets to come in and I want to have all the gaskets on hand when I tear into this project.

For the oil pan gasket, is it best to use the paper gasket, or make my own gasket with Black high temp RTV, or both? I have Permatex optimum max flex and oil resistant gasket maker. Thank you guys, as always, for any help.

A lot of guys RTV and it seals up. The sump bolts can and sometimes do come loose so they might only need a tighten up. Give it a big clean, retorque the sump bolts and see if it leaks and where it's doing it. Check the timing cover bolts - see if any have torqued themselves loose. If you need to change the front crank seal, this isn't a deal breaker. You can remove and install it without taking the engine out. The trick is installing the replacement without damaging it (or gouging the crank) If you are patient, use a cork gasket sheet. It is superior to paper gasket material. You will need a brand new hole punch and a really sharp fresh blade to cut it to shape.

RTV use really depends on the gasket type. For silicone/rubber, I only use rtv at sharp bends, i.e. the transition to the curve around the ends of the crank.
For cork or paper gaskets, I coat them with a thin layer of rtv and install. I have used straight rtv for easy to access things like differential covers. But oil pans can be a bit cumbersome to get into place. My preference is a lightly coated gasket (which also helps it stay in place while you're maneuvering the pan in)

A thin bead of RTV will keep it pinned in place when fitting the gasket - good tip :)

That is exactly what my oil leak looked like before I took off the timing belt cover. I power washed the motor after removing timing belt cover replaced 2 oil pan gaskets, three oil pump seals, a new oring over oil pump seal, 2 balance shaft seals, and 2 crankshaft seals all removed carefully and installed carefully. No ridge wear on any shafts very smooth. STILL LEAKS. When the weather breaks I have come to the conclusion I am gonna pull the front case cover and replace all gaskets and seals if that doesn't fix I will have to drop back and punt. Check out my tread I posted two threads. Probably around April. Good luck pm me and I can send you a video of exactly what you are looking at while yours is leaking exactly the same. If you find out something post it PLEASE. Good Luck.

I used red rtv sealer on both the bottom and top of the gasket before installing .mine finally quit leaking .