Brand New Clutch Cable Problems

Previous owner used a spring and nut for a spacer on the old cable. I figured it was stretched and ordered a new one, but the new cable can be adjusted all the way up easily and still not disengage the clutch. I temporarily put the spring and nut on the new cable to be able to get it into gear. It is adjusted wayyyyy out and still not working normally.

The clutch fork lever at the bottom of the cable has atleast and inch of free play travel. I checked my spare trans still bolted to my other 4G64 and it has the same amount. Is this normal, or could I have a bent clutch fork? Something internal there has to be off.

Also, if anyone knows where to find that plastic ball end shifter bushing that goes into the trans please let me know. My spare tranny didnt have one either.

Attachment 24507

My clutch on the 82 and 87 both had about that much play, the 87 has even more. So I think it's normal.

The bushing can be taken out of certain cars. Look it up online and do a part number search and see what cars have it, then go junkyard digging.

The shifter bushes are still available new - they were used on Mitsubishi and Hyundai and are only a few bucks tops. The clutch cable tensioner spring is a long ass thing that is about 2-2.5" long when installed so that indicates by your picture that the adjustment is out of whack.

Huh, mine doesn't even have a spring there. Maybe lost, or removed by the PO to lighten pedal effort? :shrug:

There is suppose to be a spring there? I thought it was just suppose to run up to the rubber grommet on the firewall with just 1/8" of play.

I have it adjusted to move it around and put it on a trailer for now, but it is virtually working like an on/off switch with little room for slippage.

The truck goes to inspection this week. It will pass as is, but I still need to figure this out. The cable tightens to the point where the threaded end isnt even in the rubber grommet on the firewall anymore. Is there suppose to be something to hold the cable down to prevent it from moving?

The spring is pretty lightweight - I doubt it offered any real resistance. The spring hooks through the teeth on the adjuster and the other end locks into that cut out on the seat so the adjuster doesn't wind itself back in.

The p/o used the incorrect pressure plate / throw out bearing COLLAR combo
when performing the 'clutch job'.
My humble opinion.

Alright so I'm going to order a new clutch kit. Only $90, and I'm sure the one in my spare motor/tranny assembly is probably fried too.

Anything that I should look for in particular just in case while I have it apart? Not sure what the common wear areas are for these transmission.

By the way, what model are these 5 speeds? I haven't found anything really on them and was curious.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Low9Life4

by the way, what model are these 5 speeds? I haven't found anything really on them and was curious.

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The transmission model is shown on the ident plate, front of the firewall. Mine is "KM132" for example. Also a 5 spd manual.

Attachment 24545

I didn't even think to look there! Thanks! I plan to cyro treat the internals of the spare and now I can check for goodies that may be available.

I'll get my trans out by the end of the week and update. Bunch of side jobs on vehicles I know a lot more about to help get this thing tip-top. Until then anymore advice on what direction to look in is appreciated.

Check for thrust plate wear, front and rear seals and normal wear components like synchro rings, bearings, spigot bush etc.

you are all missing the real cause - the clutch cable is the wrong one! There are several lengths - the one you have is the longer one. The problem is finding the right one, as most places selling them don't know the difference...

I haven't seen them anywhere online showing as different lengths. Where would you recommend ordering from to get the correct one? And how would I know which one I need?

^^^
pennyman ???
Please post part numbers for the different length cables & their applications.
Thanks.

I have the following part numbers and applications for first gen
excluding 4wd
part number UPC number - model applications (type/description)
MB012460 - 30570 - L021P / FSL YFSL, L022P / FSL2, L023P / NUL2

MB012461 - 30570 - L021P / FSR YFSR



4wd models

MB012460 - 30570 - L021P / FSL YFSL, L022P / FSL2, L023P / NUL2

MB012475 - 30570 - L022G / YFSL

MB012464 - 30570 - L022G / FSR YFSL


To make sense of that the following codes relate to model, engine, and trans il post a pick of the model decode

Attachment 24600

https://www.megazip.net/zapchasti-dl...ro-strada-4374
Lots of parts diagrams here, but im only seeing MB527073 as the part number until 3rd gen. May not be a complete list i guess,

Scratch that i did some more digging

MB527073/MB598411 is 870mm eye to eye and has a sheath length of 654mm

MB598411 on rock auto has an eye to eye length of 889mm

looks like theres a bunch of too long ones being sold as standard?
Attachment 24601


might be less leg work to remake the bracket

pennyman ???

I have to look for the part numbers - I have been having computer issues all day. Finally figured out that the issue is with Internet Explorer. I will post them when I find them.

Nice work!

Yeah I ordered my new cable from RockAuto. '95 2WD 4G64. At the time there was only one option. Now it shows the cable I ordered with no length description, and 2 other brands, one being ATP, that say they are 35".

So it looks like I'll snatch mine back out tomorrow and measure it to see how it compares to the ATP.

Torton,
Thanks for the 'legwork', -all needed info on first gen clutch cables & added bonus of 1'st gen? model decode charthttp://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...s/thumbsup.gif
Pennyman,Thanks, please do post the numbers when you find them :thumbup:

Low9life4,
No time today, tomorrow I will pull the clutch cable on My '93 & post measurements- > original Mitsu replacement > been in place
4+ years without issue.

Honored Posters, Humble thanks as always.