Possible Performance Distributor for 2.6l

Ok so here we go I looked around a little on the site trying to find if anyone has ever done this before and I had no such luck. So I'm sorry if this is posted somewhere else and is redundant but I thought it was too cool not to share.

So a lot of gear heads have probably heard of recurving a distributor for performance. Right????

Everyone knows on these trucks short of going to and edis system your kinda stuck with mechanical advances and what not.

Well I was having trouble with my original distributor being loose and worn out and hated trying to play with the weights and springs because of there location on the factory 2.6l distributor. So I started researching and googling for hours and days and finally i found a solution.

The picture below is the factory 88 g54b 2.6l dizzy. You will notice the electronic are above the weights and springs.... meaning if you want to play with it you have to essentailly remove the guts to get to it to make quick adjustments..... not practical at all.

http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...id=24031&stc=1http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...id=24026&stc=1http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...id=24028&stc=1

Long story short at first I just wanted a functioning replacement and bought a remanufactured Cardone P#31-560 it showed up and looked like complete crap. If you have seen my motor I was not going to put crap in place of crap on my baby. So I sent it back and kept searching for better idea.

I found that a dizzy out of a 1983 Ram 50, Mighty Max, and/or Montreo with the 2.6l had a different cap that screws on instead of clipping on. So I kept looking and found a company named Spectra made a new replacement distributor. I had never heard of this company so being very skeptical I ordered the Spectra P# DG27 (pictured below) from amazon to see if it would work.

http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...id=24030&stc=1


This is what showed up??? A brand new replacement for the 1988 g54b with the side clip mounting, not the one pictured above? Not what I ordered but was what I was originally looking for. After really looking at it they completely redesigned the guts and everything is different. Compare below pic#2 to above Pic#3. So I called Spectra in Canada and there tech support guy said it is impossible and that they have never made a distributor for the 88 ram 50 pickups and the only distributor listed for 2.6l g54b is p# DG27. The one I received below had the casting stamped DG27 and the box it arrived in had DG27 on the Spectra Box with all there info on it. But yet they have never made one????? To this day neither one of us knows what the below distributor is for, but I sent it back and ordered another one from a different source.

http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...id=24033&stc=1http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...id=24032&stc=1

Now this time I got what I asked for and guess what it fits. The gear is the same with same number of teeth, same length, and mounting hole.

http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...id=24030&stc=1

Beautiful!!! The stock factory vacuum advance has a 10 stamped on it. The Spectra DG27 comes with a 7.5 vacuum advance. So I wanted more adjustability and found that if you order the vacuum advance off of a 88-89 turbo Starion they have adjustable vacuum advances!!!!!!!!:shock:

So I order Stand Motor Product P# VC269. If you remove the acorn nut on top there is a very tiny screw that you can turn in and out to fine tune your advance!!!!

So if you look below the difference between the factory dizzy and the Spectra dizzy, they are pretty much the same but the springs and weights are on top of the electronics instead of the bottom. Also the rotor is screwed onto the plate with weights so it can never wiggle loose and move at all!!! Verses the factory dizzy slips on and depending on manufacture actually moves and wiggles loose.

http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...id=24026&stc=1http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...id=24027&stc=1http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...id=24028&stc=1http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...id=24029&stc=1

Also the new distributor cap and rotor is a way better set up because it has a built in shield on the rotor to contain and direct the spark in one direction instead of being open to take the path of least resistance.

http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...id=24024&stc=1http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...id=24023&stc=1http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...id=24025&stc=1

Now the cap and rotor that come with the DG27 are black in color and probably work just fine but the terminals are aluminum. So I found brand WVE(aka NGK) P# 3D1068A is grey in color. The main plug from the coil and rotor are brass and the cylinder spark plug terminals are copper which is much better for electricity.

So to wrap this up it is not a performance distributor per say, but this setup gives you the ability to pull off cap and rotor and change springs very quickly, conseals and protects your spark, and the ability to adjust timing advance better then you could before.:))

This setup is for the 2.6l G54B Engine. I have it installed on the M28 non-jet head but that shouldn't matter.

Spectra P# DG27 (Distributor) $108.00 (amazon)
Standard Motor Products P# VC269 (Adj. Vacuum Adv.) $55.00 (amazon)

WVE P# 3D1068A (Copper/ Brass Cap & Rotor Kit) Grey instead of Black $ 21.00 (amazon)

Total Setup cost $184.00 and it's brand new vs. RemanufacturedCardone P# 31-560 for $182.00 (No brainer)

I am sorry for being so long winded but I went one step further and looked up other guys computer controlled timing tables (cranking advanced) that worked well on this website and used those as a base for my adjustable time.

I used a Innova 3568 Digital Timing Light to set the timing at different rpms in netrual to set it as close to the timing table I found in Thread: cranking advance for 2.6l post #11 by LSR Mike. I pulled this table from that post only cause I don't know how to use it as a quote in a new thread. Please don't be mad. ;)

So using this table as a base since I can't tune it under a load and didn't really know what Mike considered low vacuum values and High Vacuum Values I shot for middle of the graph for my application.

RPM across the top
The ignition advance number below
the 9 rows of numbers are the S1 to S10 load lines shown in the graph.
The Bottom line being low Vacuum and the top line being High Vacuum.

0 750 1000 1250 1500 1750 2000 2250 2500 3000 3500 4000 4500 5000
8 8 13 19 29 32 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40
8 8 13 19 29 32 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40
8 8 18 24 30 35 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40
8 8 18 24 30 35 38 38 38 36 35 35 37 37 37 37- Mikes Computerized reading
8 8 13 23 24 26 28 30 32 34 35 36 37 38 - My Manual timing light reading adjusting the vacuum advance screw on top
8 8 16 19 21 27 30 30 31 28 28 28 30 30 32 33- Mike Computerized reading
8 8 9 13 13 18 18 20 21 21 20 20 25 28 28 30
5 5 8 9 10 11 12 15 16 16 17 16 20 22 24 26
3 3 7 8 9 11 11 14 15 16 16 15 17 21 23 25
2 2 6 7 8 10 10 14 15 16 16 14 16 20 22 24
0 0 4 5 6 8 8 11 12 13 13 12 15 19 21 23

I still can add more if I wanted to but didn't want to go over 40 at idle. It was pinging a little at 40 so I backed it off and ended up at 38. Wish I could put more in around cruise but that's what I ended up with. My red numbers are exactly in between Mikes Chart values so I would call that a win for an Adjustable Mechanical Vacuum Advance Setup. Also super noisy and sketchy even with a helper at 5,000rpm to try and see numbers and not suck the cord into the fan. LOL!!

Well sorry for being so long winded but I often find information on forums to be lacking details and sometimes leaving me to search on. So I tried to cover it all in one location for all those guys who have the tinkering itch. :thumbup:

I've never dealt with a rebuilt distributor before but, from looking at rebuilt alternators I'd imagine they would be very hit and miss as far as quality/reliability is concerned. Interesting that these distributors have an adjustable advance. Old school Mitsubishi Saturn engines had adjustable advance on them from factory (there was a keyed slot on the side of the distributor body - you'd back off 2 philips head screws, then insert a small flat blade screwdriver into keyed slot and shift the adjuster left or right to alter the vac idle) It is nearly impossible to find a fully functioning used distributor in a JY - either they have dead ICM's in them, the vac advance servo is dead or the mechanical components are tired which throws the timing all over the place.
Thanks for posting up links and your findings :thumbup:

Ya no problem. I just figured for almost the same price as a crappy reman you can't go wrong with this setup and it is all brand new and super well build. I was really suprised at the build quality on the Spectra Distributor, but time will tell how it will hold up and if its reliable! Im asumming the Adjustable vacuum advances only came on the Turbo cars because they have to have some way to dial in the advance depending on boost pressure??? Maybe; maybe not, nevered played with turbos. I have really been thinking hard about doing a turbo build for my truck but just haven't pulled the trigger.

But my AWD Escalade is Supercharged and SOOOOO FUN to Drive at about 500hp!!!

:grin: I want to finish upgrades to the Escalade first before I think about a new motor for my truck. The Escalade needs a beefier 4L80E tranny swap and those are expensive but then I can turn up the boost to 10-12lbs instead of 4-6lbs I am running now.

I found this thread today, because I am experiencing serious electrical issues since I put on a new Holley 2300 350 two Sundays ago with new cap, rotor, wires, plugs, and filters And let me tell ya, it ran awesome for 2 days. Then, I couldn't go 30, backfiring, RPM's jumping, dying all of a sudden etc. And then it went crank-no-start. So, I test the fuel first, because of my new awesome carbatooter. It's got fuel and air, so onto the coil and it had zero spark. I then change the coil and ballast resistor, and have still have no spark. I even switched back coil wires. Still nothing. Crud. I look at parts all last week and read and read, and lean toward a short at first... Or could two coils possibly go bad? No way!!! Then I stumbled upon this gem of a thread. ����

I had been crossing over numbers all morning when I discovered your thread. Thank you so much for doing, writing, and posting this. So, tonight when I got home, I popped the distributor cap and wiggled everything. At this point, I figured what the heck. Then it started. Haha. Tomorrow I will make an order. What the heck, it is one of the last olx parts on the 87 Raider!!

I will post an update once installed. Thanks so much, again!

I don't see why they don't give me the Raider option for this forum. ��*♂️

A valuable 9 year old thread ~ good catch Guns

Thank you Sscorpion and Guns1980!!

My rebuilt 2.6l doesn't really make the power or gas mileage that I was hoping for...I wonder if the old distributor is holding it back?

I've just dumped so much time and $ into my 86 Power Ram it's hard to blow another $200 but of course I've already spent much more than the 200 I'd hate for my old original distributor to keep me from letting her run at her best and most reliable. I've already put the 38 Weber and Hooker headers and a chinese non-jet mechanical valve head. I did a poor man's rebuild new bearings, new piston rings and had a shop clean up the block.

The instructions that came with the Weber carb swap don't inspire a lot of confidence so I called their helpline but all they say is basically tune and jet for good idle and all should be fine???

I'd be very curious to hear if others feel this distributor is a good idea both for increased performance or even just as a better quality, long lasting upgrade from the old original distributor especially if new stock replacements (Cardone) are so poorly made as to not be reliable or comparable to the original Mitsubishi distributor.

Thanks in advance for any and all advice/opinions
Bill

Hmmmm!! I couldn't find all three parts on Amazon anymore but Rock Auto has them cheaper! Distributor is now $91, Vac Advance is $54 and the cap is $12...so $157 total before shipping...compared to $184 pre-Covid price increases?? I think it's worth doing and keeping my old distributor as a spare.

Just to double check, both Guns 1980 and Sscorpions rigs are the next year newer Gen 2 but we all have the G54b. Did they use a different distributor on the G54b from Gen 1 to Gen 2 1987 and later??

Thanks guys, Bill

They all use the same distributor design - same input and gear, same mounting and orientation etc. Only thing that seems to change is vac advance for emissions regulations (single vs dual vac)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Pengineer1

My rebuilt 2.6l doesn't really make the power or gas mileage that I was hoping for...I wonder if the old distributor is holding it back?
...
I've already put the 38 Weber and Hooker headers and a chinese non-jet mechanical valve head...

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Exhaust headers are typically meant to maximize high-RPM peak horsepower, at the expense of low-end torque or a broad band of useful street-driving power. Same goes for the 38 Weber, which is also thirstier than the 32/36, so those may account for poor mileage and street performance. The 38 is synchronous, meaning both of those big 38mm barrels open simultaneously to really gulp down air and fuel, whereas the 32/36 is progressive, meaning it usually runs on the gas-sipping 32mm barrel until you really step on it, then the 36mm barrel also opens.

Presuming your stock distributor is fully functional, I doubt replacing it would improve matters. Just make sure your static advance is in-spec, maybe even advance it a wee bit more than stock, but not so far it starts pinging/knocking under any condition. Check that your vacuum and centrifugal advance both work as expected with a timing light -- disconnect the vac hose from the intake/carb and cap that hose barb, then at idle watch the timing light on the crank pulley to confirm the timing advances when you suck hard on the vac hose and retards back again when you don't, then operate the throttle gradually to confirm it advances as RPMs rise and retards again as they fall back to idle.

Thank you Geezer and SubG!

Thanks again SubG. My new distributor is supposed to come soon but I'll check my old one per your instructions and then install the new one and keep the old one as a spare. By the way, I only paid $40 for the Hooker headers from a junk yard and my original cast exhaust manifolds was cracked all over so I don't regret that purchase. But the only reason I bought the bigger 38 Weber is because the salesman on the phone with Redline talked me into it. He said the 38 was a newer design and could be tuned to match our 2.6l motor better than the smaller 32/36. He said they more recommend the 32/36 for smaller motors like the suzuki Samurai. I wish I hadn't listened to him, not just from what you said in your post. It runs fine, I'm not complaining except to say I'd either like the increased power I was hoping for from the headers and bigger carb OR better gas mileage like from the smaller progressive carb.

Meddle with the ignition settings. Under gap the plugs to 0.85mm and try dynamically tuning it by holding engine RPM @ 2000 and swing the distributor adjustment between advance and retard slowly until you hit a sweet spot and the rpm's jump by themselves and then back it off just a tiny bit as a preventative buffer to ping/knock. Factory tuning nerfs stock engines so there is definitely room for performance improvement. Ethanol added fuel is not good for tuning and if you have the luxury of avoiding the junk, do so. You may need to experiment with primary jet sizes to get it running in it's happy place.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by geezer101

Meddle with the ignition settings. Under gap the plugs to 0.85mm and try dynamically tuning it by holding engine RPM @ 2000 and swing the distributor adjustment between advance and retard slowly until you hit a sweet spot and the rpm's jump by themselves and then back it off just a tiny bit as a preventative buffer to ping/knock. Factory tuning nerfs stock engines so there is definitely room for performance improvement. Ethanol added fuel is not good for tuning and if you have the luxury of avoiding the junk, do so. You may need to experiment with primary jet sizes to get it running in it's happy place.

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say geezer~man are you certain meddle is the best fix..? :P https://duckduckgo.com/?q=meddle%2C+...&ia=definition

Well, it is 'tampering' with the recommended tune. The skinny version is the Weber is more sensitive to manifold vacuum and the stock distributor doesn't know how to play with it nicely so you have to get creative with setting it if you aren't going to change advance counterweights and spring combos to get the optimal advance curve - a skill I do not possess or fully understand.

FYI if anyone else orders these 3 parts, don't bother ordering that distributor cap and rotor. They are not compatible with Spectra DG27 distributor. At least the one I just got from rock auto is the correct part numbers but not compatible.

Well hello everyone!!!! Life has been crazy for he last few years. Thanks for the kind words and thank you above. There is not much info on these trucks out there except on this forum. I try to keep up with all the post but I am very busy. I am just glad that I was able to help out a few people.

Pengineer1- sorry that the parts you got don’t match up. In 9 years they must have switched them up. Not sure what happened there.

as far as gas mileage goes the best I have gotten in my setup above it 18mpg mixed highway and city driving. I am not a fan of my Weber 32/36 as my engine I think really needs the bigger 38/38 Weber due to my mods. I am always changing, tweaking, and messing with jets and float settings and let just say I am getting tired of it being so temperamental all the time. I really want to go to Holley edit 2300 carb setup somehow in the future…… one day. Best of luck to everyone and there awesome trucks they really are so much fun and simple to work on.

The Holley 350 is the way to go. Everyone reading this, throw your Weber in the trash. Lol. After swapping fr the 38 DGAS, to the Holley, there was an instant mpg increase and way more power. I only change the distributor module and not the whole distributor, since I could factory warranty it for free.... Haha. It made the Raider run better for sure, but the distributor is still OE and has 350k on it.... I am ordering one in a couple weeks for sure then my son is selling it. He said he wants a car that gets 30+ mpg because he's 17 and broke. I don't blame him, but it's gonna stink to watch it go. Motor was rebuilt 5k ago and everything but the distributor is brand new.

Bill - yes that is my motor as well. I also work at an auto parts store and have reseached this 110 ways from Sunday. Scorpion nailed it with the distributor stuff. Sometimes you just gotta make it work. Like my Holley, there is no adaptor for the 2.6l intake so guess what, that sucker is welded now! An OE intake is easier to find than a Holley to Mits intake. So, I had a dude weld it. Definitely won't leak! And you can always adapt a weber back to the holley adapter, so we just went for it. There's plenty of inches from the intake to the hood ����

Hi, just stumbled on this post, could be a lifesaver for me but I got a quick question and I hope someone still here to give advice... When swaping to the DG27 did you retain the original coil with the ballast resistor or did you replace it ? When I crosscheck which car compatible with the DG27 dizzy it looks like those were equipped withe the cylinder style coil. Many thanks,

Well keep all old parts. The dropping resistor is there to keep from melting the dist at idle. A coil is normally matched to a dist and it’s pick up coil. A coil is not always a coil. They have different internal resistance