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I have read in many places that the 1G DSM 4G63 and the Truck G64B share the same rod. I have never personally verified this, I am looking for some one who has done this to confirm interchangeability.
I have a chance to pick up some New In Box Eagle Forged H-Beam 1G 6-Bolt 4g63 rods for a steal of a deal but I hate to buy them if they don't interchange with the G64B 2.4 rods.
Never mind,, I answered it my self Mitsubishi calls for MD040550 in both applications..
No need to 'build' the 2.4 for boost. Some aussie starions run 2.4 instead of the original 2.0 sohc
Rods r a waste of money unless a monster setup. Oem rods live @ 500 ft-lbs tq
14g is a puny turbo = heat. DSM 2.0 & starion sohc more tolerant due to lower compression, than truck 2.4.
i have a t3/t4(60-1) to run on my truck stock 2.4 sohc. Excellent performance on ford 2.3 & starion 2.6 sohc
....even at low boost(=less heat), pump gas
5th gear is weakest. 2.72 gear with a oe tall tire is asking for it imo
Quote:
Originally Posted by dash
This is where I am at with it right now..
I picked up the Eagle H-Beams for $150 new in box the cat just wanted to get rid of them he has not owned a DSM in years... for the price I could not pass them up!
I am going to go with Wiseco K548M865 or K564M87 depending if I need to go .020 over or not, This should put the compression radio at 7.3:1 when using a 68cc head if I have to deck the head then it may creep closer to 7.5:1 but that is still in the ball park.
So pistons and rods I will be out of pocket for $650. Not a bad price to know that if I get a wild hair I can boost the shit out of it.
I am on the fence about the turbo,, My original plan was to use a small 16g then I started looking at the 14b as I don't need that much extra power and would like it to spool fast.. Now I have started looking at spool up and with the extra displacement of the 2.4l I should be able to spool the small 16g turbo up by approx 2800RPM so I am back looking at the 16g..
As far as the tranny goes if it takes a shit I will just swap in a Mazda RX7 trans in it with a B2600 bell housing.. If the 2.72 gives me to much shit I can all ways go shorter the Dana 44 has lots of options.. At the end of the day I want to have good MPG on the highway. I wish I could find a 6 speed trans to put in it TBH!
Oo.. and yea what ever I do it needs to run on pump gas.. we don't have E85 in these parts and i'm not buying fuel at the drag strip for a "not daily but driven often enough" vehicle..
Are you running the T3/T4 right now on your 2.4l? If so what RPM are you 100% spooled?
The factory KM132/145 Mitsubishi transmissions will handle 500 hp with a reinforced sump (look up TUFFPAN, or making one out of milled billet alloy is do-able). The problem with them is the gearbox housing flexing under big torque/loads. This will save all the headaches of adapters and clutch combos. The Eagle rods were a steal and although overkill, they'll make a good insurance policy against bottom end failure (the 4G63/4 bottom ends are pretty tough out of the box anyway)
Are you talking about the heat sink from the starion? If so I have plans to use a starion trans and swap the tail shaft to put the shifter back in the right place.. I am going to transplant the clutch system from a 3.0 4x4 so I can use the hydro clutch on the starion trans.. I put this in the build plans in case I have to switch to a mazda trans in the future.Quote:
Originally Posted by geezer101
IDK if it's referred to as a 'heat sink' but I am aware that there are reinforced gearbox sump/cover plates for the manual transmissions as OEM fitted. When the gearboxes experience a lot of torque through them (seems to be exaggerated in 5th gear), the gearbox casings flex enough to cause the gear sets not to mesh completely, resulting in the gear teeth profiles only making contact to the outer faces of the sprockets. Do it enough times - bang, blown gears. Tuffpans are 19mm thick billet alloy sumps that use studs and flange nuts instead of bolts (apparently there are 12mm thick ones as well - don't know how much difference in performance it would be though...). They aren't particularly exotic in their design and if you could get your hands on some billet and give it to a (competent) machine shop, they'd be able to make a reasonable copy of one.
I gave the tuffpan a google search last night, So I have the OEM version of that in 88 and 89 the starion's came with a webbed pan it almost looks like they made a heatsink on the bottom of the tranny... I picked this transmission up about 12 years ago when me and a buddy was looking at a conquest in a junkyard.Quote:
Originally Posted by geezer101
But I could make what they call a tuffpan on the 2D CNC mill we have at the shop. Its basically a CNC routing table that is stout enough to work with aluminum. Considering the tuffpan is just a flat plate and we have made far more complicated designs starting from 2D parts.. My buddy is a design engineer he has worked for Cameco Tractors and John Deere designing tractor parts..
Here is a photo of an accessory drive he designed and we built for a SBC.
Attachment 23622
Attachment 23623
Cool. If you decide to green light this please set up a thread and post some nice pics. If your bud can mill up something like that pulley system for a SBC, he can make a sump cover in his sleep. IDK if tuff pans are still available, but if you can make something similar and cost effective, you could possibly have a market to sell them through the site if there's enough interest...
haven't boosted my 2.4 sohc yet. Turbo choice based solely on excellent sohc street 2.3 & 2.6 performance.Quote:
Are you running the T3/T4 right now on your 2.4l? If so what RPM are you 100% spooled?
Can't c 20psi takin more than 3500rpm.
Not looking for the 'instant hit', but prefer the linear feel - like a motor gradually swelling in displacement
Old tech, but proven low boost(~20-22psi) 11sec street performer.
16g sounds like your solution. Plan looks solid
tuffpan is a girdle. Those are stiffening ribs on the waffle pan
Some starquster offered a run of the pans. Testimonials & info on SQC forum
http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/i...owtopic=151108
Linear boost will preserve the drivetrain - and make it actually driveable instead of trying to kill you the minute you are on a wet or greasy road...