2.4 rebuild kits and more power

I've got a 92 power ram 50 with 2.4 she is in desperate need of a rebuild what is your opinions on a good rebuild kit and what can I do to get more power it's my daily driver tired of getting past on the up hills

The rebuild will restore lost power. Try experimenting with the ignition tune - there is hidden torque and throttle response that can be unlocked. Also try using premium fuel - it will run smoother and the extra octane will help. If you ignition coil is old, replace it. Probably the main cause of poor MPG and loss of midrange and top end power is a tired coil (they have a lifespan of 10-15 years) Use a shop with a good rep to do your machine work. Beyond that, it's a pair of headers and a good flowing exhaust and a wider duration cam (a big lift cam doesn't work on these engines and if anything, loses power) and some port work.

I've replaced ignition coil plugs wires cap rotor throttle positioning sensor new clutch New River Maine now it's burning oil

Check compression. Good compression + burning oil usually means bad valve stem seals. Your engine may only need to have the head off and a tidy up (you can eyeball the tops of the pistons and cylinder bores for overall condition - if the bores still look solid, bang some stock rings into it and give the bores a once over) Do the all of the belts, replace any suspicious seals and fit a good quality VRS kit when reinstalling the head.

*the oil burn from dead valve stem seals will drop the octane rating of your fuel - so you lose oil and horsepower at the same time.

u sure PCV or somethin, not ingesting oil in the intake ? That'll lower octane and kill performance
. (had a corolla valve cover baffle fail, motor ate oil, lower power, then started smoking. Everyone told me motor was worn)
Oil rings stuck ? May be gummed up. Should be able to run a chemical to free em up.... without a teardown
If bearings r fine, I wouldn't disturb them. I've never seen cyl bore wear in any mitsu motor I've opened either
Balance shaft spinning free ? Catalytic not blocked ? Camshaft on time ?

Cross the cam timing off that list, but all the others are possibilities (it won't idle at all if it's out by a tooth in either direction and if it's blown, it won't run at all) My hung dog had an oil issue - turned out it had a combination of mixed oil (synthetic and mineral do not mix) and the previous service history was a bit dubious. It coughed it's biscuits during a particularly hot week - blowing smoke to near zero visibility and the radiator top tank split. I thought it was game over and decided to do an autopsy on the engine. The oil scraper rings were frozen into their grooves, the venting ports were completely coked up and the bores were like chrome. However neither the bores or pistons were damaged at all or showed signs of wear. I took a gamble, sent the head off to a specialist shop, got a good quality VRS kit and a new radiator. I reused the original pistons, stripped them clean (and polished them as well - hooray for OCD) and fitted new standard rings and then (gulp) used a scourer ball on a cordless drill to deglaze the bores (I gently buffed up the original big end bearings and crank journals and returned them to their relative rods and caps). I flushed the inside of the block as much as possible and blew it out with compressed air and glued it back together.

So far - not a puff of smoke in sight, hasn't used any oil, got a ton of lost power back and no detonation on hot days (it would death rattle when the heat was turned up previously) About the only thing I didn't do but should've was replace the ignition coils. If you know Hyundais, they are bad for getting internally fouled up with burnt oil and my Lantra wagon was really bad...