EGR Delete step by step request

I'd like to do the EGR delete, and after reading about it here and in other places, it sounds like it's a relatively easy thing to do, if you know what you're doing. I'm not an expert, not even an amateur at his point, I'm a novice that knows very little, but can learn quickly.

Some of the tutorials I've found say things like "disconnect the vacuum hose", but to me that doesn't mean anything since I don't know what they look like or where they are located. Until I can get up the learning curve, visuals are very important. Once I know where something is, and what it does, I can dig deeper and learn what I need to.

Those of you who've seen me around here in the last few weeks know that I'm full of questions, some pretty basic for most you, I'm sure, but many of you have been very patient and generous with your knowledge, which I appreciate. I feel like I've learned a ton of great information since joining this group. A couple days ago I learned that my truck has a supplemental transmission cooler, which is a good thing if you want to tow or carry heavy stuff. Who knew?!! You guys did, and now, I do too!

So back to the EGR delete. It would be great to have step by step instructions, with pictures, diagrams or video, that are specific to the 2 gen trucks (more specifically the G54B engine, if there are aspects that are specific to it). I've looked everywhere, but all I can find in terms of visual step by step instructions are for other cars/trucks/engines, which does not help me much.

Anyone know where I can find something like this? There might already be one in this forum, but I haven't found it. Any guidance will be much appreciated.

I know there's a plate that I'll need that you can get on ebay, anyone have a link to it?

Thanks

Does your truck have a weber or the stock carb on it? My truck had a weber on it when I got it. This eliminates the need for the vacuum control box on the drivers side inner fender. With the Weber I have 1 vacuum line, to the distributor. I removed the egr piece from the intake manifold and fashioned my own plate to cover the hole. It is on the bottom front side of the intake manifold held on with 2 bolts. I then removed the other portion of the egr from the exhaust manifold. I cut the metal tube leading up from the exhaust manifold, and removed the large nut that holds the tube in place. I then fitted a metal plug into that nut, and tightened it back into the hole. Someone may make a kit for it, but I just made my own out of some metal laying around the shop. I would expect to see some type of threaded plug and a flat plate with two holes for the complete delete. If you don't have a Weber, strongly consider getting one as one of your first purchases. It will bring the tech level under the hood back to early 70's and give you better power and driveability.
I don't have any pictures of the original egr setup, but if you follow the tube coming off of the exhaust manifold you should be able to follow it all the way to the intake.
I'll try to take some photos of what I currently have.

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Originally Posted by Giovanni89

Does your truck have a weber or the stock carb on it? My truck had a weber on it when I got it. This eliminates the need for the vacuum control box on the drivers side inner fender. With the Weber I have 1 vacuum line, to the distributor. I removed the egr piece from the intake manifold and fashioned my own plate to cover the hole. It is on the bottom front side of the intake manifold held on with 2 bolts. I then removed the other portion of the egr from the exhaust manifold. I cut the metal tube leading up from the exhaust manifold, and removed the large nut that holds the tube in place. I then fitted a metal plug into that nut, and tightened it back into the hole. Someone may make a kit for it, but I just made my own out of some metal laying around the shop. I would expect to see some type of threaded plug and a flat plate with two holes for the complete delete. If you don't have a Weber, strongly consider getting one as one of your first purchases. It will bring the tech level under the hood back to early 70's and give you better power and driveability.
I don't have any pictures of the original egr setup, but if you follow the tube coming off of the exhaust manifold you should be able to follow it all the way to the intake.
I'll try to take some photos of what I currently have.

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I have the original mikuni carb, but been thinking about a weber swap after learning how hard the mikunis are to work on. It's definitely on the list.
Thank you for that description, I will take a look at the engine with these notes and see if it all makes sense. Just so I'm clear, are you suggesting that I should do the weber swap before attempting the delete, or can they be done independently?

If all you want to do is stop the EGR from working you could shove a ball bearing into the vacuum line and then reconnect it. That way it looks like it's still functional if you have to pass an emission test.

You should be able to do it independently no problem. My thought on the Weber first is that it gets rid of the overwhelming mess of vacuum lines. I never had the Mikuni on my truck, but I hear the Weber is the single biggest improvement you can do. Ball bearing in the line is a great tried and true method :thumbup:

I have the Weber on my trucks and left the EGR there so it would pass the emission test. Even though it was not working my truck still passed with the Weber.

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Originally Posted by Andy 2

I have the Weber on my trucks and left the EGR there so it would pass the emission test. Even though it was not working my truck still passed with the Weber.

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That is pretty impressive or the inspectors were a touched challenged lol. The NOx would've been all over the place if they did a gas analysis. But the Weber minus the EGR garbage makes an engine idle and run so much smoother.

They stopped checking the NOx a few years back and this year they are eliminating the e-test altogether. About time.

Geronimo passed a tailpipe sniffer test with a weber and an EGR valve that looks fully functional, hoses and all, until you trace the vacuum lines and find out they go in circle, and has no vacuum to it at all. He also had no cat at that time - I since put a free flow 2.25 inch converter on because my exhaust guy will not do cars that have cats without them.

yeah I'm pretty impressed with the Weber as far as emissions go. All I've had to do is lean out the idle mixture a bit and turn up the idle speed a bit and I've passed all the emissions tests without the EGR being functional. I ran a vacuum line from the EGR to that box on the fender that has been totally disabled just to make it look legit. EGR just has to be present or they won't do the test. I think putting a bit of methyl hydrate in the gas tank helps as well.

Weird that an exhaust shop would be antsy about doing work for a customer pennyman. I've had 2 completely hand built systems in the past and although they weren't 'cheap', they weren't budget breakers either (glass packed and mandrel bent - very nice). It does go to show that some of the paranoia about emissions is unfounded when doing a carb swap with something like a Weber. You'll be happy with it after the swap. Probably the #1 upgrade you can do with an engine before going all in with porting and performance work.

its a big fine here in the US to remove a cat as a shop owner. He does great work, so I can deal with having the cat there. It actually helped Geronimo on the low end, as odd as that sounds.