Crank no start

So I need some help on figuring out why my 87 Dodge Ram 50 2.6 will not start.

Background:

I pulled the engine and trans to replace rear main seal. When I placed the engine back in I replaced the alternator, radiator, water pump (started to leak when I filled it back up), spark plug wires, rotor, and rotor cap.

Upgrades:

Pacesetter Headers
Weber Carb ( I did not put any of the vacuum systems back in because I was told it was not needed with the new carb)

After everything was hooked up and refilled I went to start it, the truck was about to but I did not fully start it. 5 min later when I tried to start it, all it does is crank but won't start. I know it is getting fuel in the carb and tested the spark with a screwdriver. There was nothing wrong. I am also getting the 12V form the ignition wire. The battery is brand new. I am running out of ideas on what is wrong. I attached pictures of the engine compart if it helps with any ideas.

Attachment 21439Attachment 21438Attachment 21437

i just rebuilt the 2.0 in my 87 and upgraded to the weber. It does not need anything but the vacuum advance hooked up from the old set up. I noticed you are runnig the stock mechanical fuel pump. The threads I have read say that the mechanical pump will overpower the needle and seat in the weber and cause flooding. Need to go with an electric pump and a pressure regulator to target about 3psi.
Should be easy to tell if it is flooding, pull the plugs afer cranking and see if they have gas on them.

The factory ignition coil has a lifespan of 10-15 years max before it breaks down under load. It could be the cause of your weak spark situation. You will need the vac advance connected with the Weber but tuning it with a stock set up takes trial and error. To get the absolute best out of the Weber takes a few mods - porting and port matching, recurved distributor with different counter weight springs, correct fuel flow and pressure supply and a wider cam duration. If you can get the fuel delivery right and try altering the timing you'll get it running better than the Mikuni ever did. You are posting on the Weber thread as well and I asked if it is indeed a genuine Weber or a knock off. If you have the copy, it's unlikely that you'll ever get it to run properly and there is nothing that can be done to rectify it (the problem is the metering galleries that are machined into the carb bodies - they are just awful...changing jets and emulsions won't fix the rich/lean fault)