Clutch job on my 86 4x4: Easiest to pull transmission rather than motor??

I've been putting this off for 6 months, but since adding the Weber carb and headers my clutch sometimes slips when pulling hard and especially on hotter days. The pedal has always been pretty high, but I'm also thinking the motor may be seeping some oil onto the clutch.

Maybe a dumb question, but with this being a 4x4, is it still easiest to pull the transmission out and leave the engine in place???

Any suggestions for which clutch kit to buy or where to buy it? Parts Geek has the whole kit for $100 but Autozone has it all for $75?? Should I look for a better, more expensive clutch kit? It's hard to believe the new clutch could be very good if the whole kit and caboodle is only $75 or even $100????

I don't think I've slipped it very much so I shouldn't need to have the flywheel resurfaced, or should I???

Anything else I should check or do while I have the motor and trans separated??

All suggestions, tips, warnings, etc greatly appreciated!!

Bill in snowy Colorado

Get the flywheel surfaced while you can. It's cheap ,way better than having to pull it all out again.

If the flywheel isn't trenched but is looking a bit polished, I can't see why buzzing over it with an electric palm sander wouldn't suffice in de-glazing it. A few passes with a coarse disc will make short work of it. Taking a flywheel off is a PITA, but if it is looking like a record it needs to be machined. Go easy on your choice of clutch kit. A heavy duty pressure plate may seem like a good idea but the clutch cable and the firewall are not heavy duty (if they're hydraulic - go hard. I'm not up to speed on whether the regular gas 4x4's are mech or hydraulic...)

Definitely call around for prices on getting it resurfaced, it's money well spent. When I did the clutch in my Falcon the prices varied wildly. That particular flywheel is stepped, with the height between the steps being important. The local engine machine shop wanted 125 bucks. But an old school parts store that was 1/2 hour away had a blanchard grinder for doing flywheels and brake rotors. They only wanted 40 bucks, and could get it done in a day instead of a week.

Well I'm glad I asked! Thank you all. So I will take the flywheel off and take it around to the shops and see what they say and how much they want.

But again, it IS easier to pull the tranny and leave the motor in place rather than vice versa?? Thanks again, Bill

If you have all the tools and equipment like jacks and a hoist, dropping the tranny is the "easier", but either approach is no small effort with a 4x4. I just changed mine and pulled the engine because I did it in my backyard, had a cherry picker and wanted to fix some engine bay and engine problems. They were far easier to achieve with the engine out. R & I of the flywheel was much easier on an engine stand than trying to do it from under the truck raised on jack stands.
If you remove the flywheel and especially if the clutch disc is oil soaked, replace the crankshaft seal and the tranny input shaft seal. Also, now would be the time to remove the clutch release lever and lubricate the brass bushings that support the lever's shaft.
By the way, I paid $70 to have the flywheel resurfaced.

I'd pull the engine. As commented, the 4x4 would not be fun to pull out. Then you'd have to get it back in. Plus if you have to replace the rear seal, you'll need better access to the back of the engine.

AH!! THANK YOU ALL!!!

I just bought you all many rounds of "virtual BEERS!!" (Or COFFEES!!)

Drink up and enjoy. I won't get to start this job until I get my poor ol beat up Subaru back on the road, but I may report back of Dodgie's clutch adventures.

Bill from sunny Colorado mountains...

Just pulled my transmission and transfer case to replace input shaft seal. Was not too bad did it mostly by myself jack and ratchet straps. I thought it was rear crank seal but that looked brand new. Motor was rebuilt previous owner said, clutch, flywheel, pressure plate all looked new.

Yamahauler so you did all that work for nothing? Something leaking??

Could be the gearbox input shaft seal.

Ah, of course...thanks.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Pengineer1

Ah, of course...thanks.

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It was the gasket on the housing that holds the seal replaced both. Also front and rear drive shaft seals. Just ordered from dealer the plastic bushing on shifter ball $5.33. Then finish snow plow install from my parts Montero.

If the front end sags too much, you can get a set of heavier torsion bars at this link: http://adventuredrivendesign.com/oca...berian+Bushing. The 1st gen 4 cylinder Montero torsions are the same as the trucks - v6 torsions are longer. They have sway away and old man emu bars

Hey Pennyman thanks for the tip. On my old VW dune buggy it was easy to index the splines on the torsion bars to set up more or less preload as desired; couldn't I do the same thing with my truck if it sags?
Bill

you can, but if they are sagging, the lift will be temporary at best. Remember, the torsions are 30+ years old already, so they are pretty well shot if they are sagging.