Do i stay stock or do i swap?

So years ago my gramps bought a 91 mighty max with the 4g64 that was in mint shape and had 60,000 on the motor but he could never get it going i'm figuring it was an electrical issue well it's sat in my field for a good 10-15 years and now i've taken over on it he's dead so i have no clue what's wrong and the key is missing so until i buy an ignition i'm in the dark i do know it's not seized now here i ask do i try to fix this motor up and keep it stock or do i take my cousins totaled 2.5l ranger engine with a 5 speed and swap it in what are your guys thoughts i have no clue how these mitsubishis are so your knowledge would help a lot just trying to go the fastest route for a daily driver here

If you pull the door lock on the passenger door, it should have the key code that covers all the locks. You could also take the lock and have a locksmith make a key from it. Pull the ECM on the passenger side kick panel and remove the cover to check the condition of the capacitors in there - they fail and the truck won't run, or cause weird issues. Clean all the grounds on the truck - they cause many issues as well. Let us know what you find.

Hi and welcome to mightyram. Hard to make a move without the keys but at least you can take the steering column off and take the ignition switch assembly out of the column lock and switch it manually with a screwdriver (go easy, you can bust up the switch if you get enthusiastic with it). The best idea would be to put a diagnostic tool on the ECM and see what error codes it's throwing. I'd tend to agree with pennyman that the ECM is bad. Might get away with new capacitors soldered into the board as long as they haven't leaked badly and eaten the PCB - easy fix if you can hold a soldering iron and can read the values off the bad caps. Good luck, hopefully it won't take much to get it running :thumbup:

Thanks a ton man i'll look into having a key made should be cheaper than a new ignition and i'll take a look at that panel

Doing this will the truck turn over?

If you've got a good battery and everything is connected - theoretically yes, it ought to crank and fire. Do your prep - run a touch of oil into the bores from the spark plug holes and turn the crank by hand with a socket and bar to make sure it's not going to destroy the rings. Once you got the switch to the 'ON' position, let it pick up some fuel before trying to turn it over. Sounds like she's been sitting for some time. Look for anything that will grief you - fuel leaks from the backs of the injectors, fuel line couplings etc. Don't want the first dance to end in a blazing mess. You'll need your foot on the clutch too if it has a start safe switch in it. Click the switch over to start and see what happens. Good luck :thumbup:

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Originally Posted by geezer101

If you've got a good battery and everything is connected - theoretically yes, it ought to crank and fire. Do your prep - run a touch of oil into the bores from the spark plug holes and turn the crank by hand with a socket and bar to make sure it's not going to destroy the rings. Once you got the switch to the 'ON' position, let it pick up some fuel before trying to turn it over. Sounds like she's been sitting for some time. Look for anything that will grief you - fuel leaks from the backs of the injectors, fuel line couplings etc. Don't want the first dance to end in a blazing mess. You'll need your foot on the clutch too if it has a start safe switch in it. Click the switch over to start and see what happens. Good luck :thumbup:

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Thanks i am going to try this if the lock smith can't make me a set of keys and i have the buy an ignition i'm going to take the codes off the pssenger lok and see what he caqn do i'll let you know how that goes and i'm going to take a look at the capacitors

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Originally Posted by pennyman1

If you pull the door lock on the passenger door, it should have the key code that covers all the locks. You could also take the lock and have a locksmith make a key from it. Pull the ECM on the passenger side kick panel and remove the cover to check the condition of the capacitors in there - they fail and the truck won't run, or cause weird issues. Clean all the grounds on the truck - they cause many issues as well. Let us know what you find.

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So i've pulled the lock and there were three codes i'm assuming the long one is a serial number now these two codes i should be able to send out for a new key correct?

yes - any locksmith can make one with the lock and the codes

I spotted these on ebay. Mitsubishi are notorious for using the same parts across a couple of different platforms -

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Standard-US...FXGD73&vxp=mtr

I know it's a PITA to have 2 different keys for door/ignition but -

https://www.ebay.com/itm/DOOR-LOCKS-...ha4GEc&vxp=mtr

Quote:

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Originally Posted by geezer101

I spotted these on ebay. Mitsubishi are notorious for using the same parts across a couple of different platforms -

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Standard-US...FXGD73&vxp=mtr

I know it's a PITA to have 2 different keys for door/ignition but -

https://www.ebay.com/itm/DOOR-LOCKS-...ha4GEc&vxp=mtr

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This should work for my pick up correct? if the locksmith doesnt work out i'll get one of those

Quote:

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Originally Posted by pennyman1

yes - any locksmith can make one with the lock and the codes

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Awesome i'm going to get a set made tomorrow i appreciate all the help for you guys i'll post some pics and shit when i get the keys and let you know where i'm at

I would seriously consider doing an oil change first, before hand-cranking the engine.

I'm pretty sure I have an ignition and key from an '89 parts truck...not sure if it'll fit, but PM me if you're interested.

Best of luck on your new adventure - we love seeing these trucks given a second chance in life :)

Visually compare that ignition switch in the link to the one in your truck. The wiper/light yoke mounting holes may be different. There are a bunch of part numbers you can cross reference in that ebay ad that will help identify if it's the same part # as the truck ignition.

So i got a key made today poured oil in the heads she has spark not getting fuel i had her crank over with some either any one know of any common fuel problems with these im thinking its the pump and screen since i have no pressure

Attachment 20560 Attachment 20561

Check for power at the fuel pump relay and trace it from there. Could be something as simple as a blown fuse. If you can hear the relay power up then it's either a bad connection from the relay to the pump (or a related ground/earth) or the pump is dead (easy to test by running a bypass power wire to the terminal on the pump). This still might also be an ECU fault but start from the pump and work forwards.

Alright how od i test the relay i think it was clicking at one point and how do i run a bypass wire from the terminal on the pump basically how do i test both of these two things sorry but im new to cars

In order to save me from writing the history of the universe out, here's a link to the procedure -

https://www.doityourself.com/stry/ho...uel-pump-relay

Using a multimeter on the pump is pretty straightforward. Unplug the connection to the pump, set the meter to check for continuity/resistance (whichever is easiest for you). If you don't get a reading out of it, check you're making good contact to the terminals on the pump and try again. No reading = pump has failed (open circuit - there's a break in the internal windings somewhere)