1st Gen Sport Steering Wheel Removal ?

Hi Guys, I've been away for awhile with life etc. but I'm trying to get my little truck project back on track.

With that, I need to take the steering wheel off, and I don't want to break the horn pad.
I did a search and saw a few comments, but nothing that said exactly How this thing comes off.
I read something about some phillips screws, but could not find any, (that went into the horn pad)
and if they are there, how to access them.

Maybe the masters camoit or pennyman could share some info ? Or anyone.
Just need to get this horn pad off so I can remove & adjust the steering wheel.

Any help would be Most Appreciated !

Hi
The horn pad lifts off. The centre badgestays attached. Use a wide pry tool and pop one side up, then the rest will come off by hand.

You can then remove the nut with a 19mm socket on an extension.

I need to adjust mine too. I'll take some photos when I'm off work for the day, unless you do it first.

*this info is for the round centre pad wheel. I have seen a square type one on some 1st gens

My 85 has two Phillips screws that go into the pad from behind. You should be able to feel the holes on the back side of the hard plastic of the steering wheel. As I recall the last time I did it I had a heck of a time getting the right angle. Maybe the size of the driver was off?

Attachment 20259

the 79 - 80 sport wheels have the round horn pad - just slip a flat blade screwdriver under the edge of the pad and release it from the collar.

Thanks All ! And yes, round pad. Ok, pennyman, if you say so ,,, LOL
(But you've never let me down before)

I tired to pull and pry a bit, but it seemed awfully tight and I didn't want to break anything.
But I'll give it a go ! Have to get it aligned after replacing the front end with much lower components.
And the alignment guy wants the steering wheel centered Before he starts. Seems odd, but if that's what he wants ,,,

Ok, I'll let you all know what happens.

(the next question will be about the best replacement carburetor, was it a Weber ? have to search)

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Originally Posted by OG Arrow

(the next question will be about the best replacement carburetor, was it a Weber ? have to search)

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Weber 32/36 DGEV or a little bigger like the 38 DGES (both have enough CFM to run the 2.6 without having an asthma attack)

MANDATORY READING FOR ALL WHO ARE ABOUT TO BUY A WEBER KIT -

http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...carb-Becareful!!!!!!!!!!!!

The 1st gen trucks only have 1 adjustable tie rod, so the only way to center the wheel is to pull it off the column and put it back on straight. he wants the wheel straight so he can get the toe set right.

IDK about that Pennyman. I set mine straight before taking it in after I did the replacement of all rubber and new calipers rotors etc. When I got it back the wheel was pointing in the other direction mirror image from what it was when I took it off and "fixed" it. I think the wheel gets set after the alignment is done with the machines since it has nothing to do with any of the adjustments that will need to be done. I was also told that back in the day the alignment guy would do that. I left the nut hand tight and told him I did so that he could if he needed to but he never did.

I have had Geronimo since new and I always had to reinstall the wheel to center it after the alignment - most newer alignment guys never heard about the manual wheel adjustment, they think the wheel centers with the tie rods.

Long time ago, think there was an AMC car that had to do it that way too. I remember the alignment shop guy saying give me 10 minutes to pull the wheel and center it.

back in the 60s or early 70s AMC

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Originally Posted by pennyman1

The 1st gen trucks only have 1 adjustable tie rod, so the only way to center the wheel is to pull it off the column and put it back on straight. he wants the wheel straight so he can get the toe set right.

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Yes, I understand what he wants to do ,,,

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Originally Posted by 85Ram50

I think the wheel gets set after the alignment is done with the machines since it has nothing to do with any of the adjustments that will need to be done.

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But my thinking has always been along these lines ,,, That's what I was getting at with the alignment guy (and my post comment)
That I didn't see the need Before hand, as the numbers and adjustments have nothing to do with the wheel.
Just make everything right and straight, lock it down, and I'll fix the wheel when I get it back.

That's all I was thinking / implying ,,,

As my thinking was, what if I take it off, center it back, have it aligned, and when I get it back, it's not straight,
and now I have to take it off again to true it up.
That's why I was just going to do it after.

Anyone know if the 2nd gen model steering wheel comes off the same way? Just got an alignment and now the wheel isn't centered and bugging my ocd

Quote:

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Originally Posted by OG Arrow

As my thinking was, what if I take it off, center it back, have it aligned, and when I get it back, it's not straight,
and now I have to take it off again to true it up.
That's why I was just going to do it after.

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This is what happened to me. No big I had the cover off and nut hand tight anyway. It's nice to have it track straight when I let go the wheel. :)

Pennyman1, I finally looked through the gallery of Geronimo. It made me feel like emptying a can of gas in mine and tossing in a match.
Very nice work. If I didn't need to use it I might do a complete rebuild of the whole thing too. :)

no need for that - the sticker under the hood says it all: NOTICE - Insanity has replaced reason in the design and construction of this vehicle. That sticker was given to me by my friend Trkdesigner, Geronimo's painter. BTW, he was the one who came up with the paint design...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by pennyman1

no need for that - the sticker under the hood says it all: NOTICE - Insanity has replaced reason in the design and construction of this vehicle. That sticker was given to me by my friend Trkdesigner, Geronimo's painter. BTW, he was the one who came up with the paint design...

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I want to get a similar sticker made up like that but with a different approach-

ATTENTION - this vehicle has been certified EMP resistant. In the event of a ground zero nuclear weapon detonation, this vehicle will remain operational due to the lack of transistors or other electronic circuitry.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 85Ram50

Pennyman1, I finally looked through the gallery of Geronimo. It made me feel like emptying a can of gas in mine and tossing in a match. Very nice work. :)

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I Know ! Isn't his truck Nice ! Very well done. and of course I Love the back window.

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Originally Posted by geezer101

I want to get a similar sticker made up :
ATTENTION - this vehicle has been certified EMP resistant. In the event of a ground zero nuclear weapon detonation, this vehicle will remain operational due to the lack of transistors or other electronic circuitry.

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Ok, That's Funny Right There ! LOL (I have a few vehicles that fall into that category) LOL

Quote:

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Originally Posted by tortron

Hi
The horn pad lifts off. The centre badgestays attached. Use a wide pry tool and pop one side up, then the rest will come off by hand.
You can then remove the nut with a 19mm socket on an extension.

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Ok, my wheel has been removed and re-clocked straight. Yay.

The horn pad actually did not need any prying, grabbed it with my big paw, and pulled on an angle toward 3 o clock, and the left side popped up, so a little pull in that direction and it came right off, no drama.

However, my nut is a 17mm. Removed that re-clock, re-tighten Done. Now just waiting for my new Idler Arm to get here, and then it's back to the alignment shop ! (and hopefully finally done with this portion, and can move on to the carb and exhaust issues)

Thanx again for all the help guys ! I Love This Forum.

No it doesn't. There is a Phillips screw on the bottom. Remove that screw and pull up on the square pad.

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Originally Posted by ibbugn

No it doesn't. There is a Phillips screw on the bottom. Remove that screw and pull up on the square pad.

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This is for a 1991 Ram 50 with a square horn button.

for those who made it this far on this thread, some info for wheel centering. On the 1st gen trucks, there is only one adjustable tie rod, so the wheel needs to be pulled and centered after an alignment. On the 2nd gen trucks, they have 2 adjustable tie rods, so the alignment tech needs to use the tie rods like any other vehicle to center the wheel.