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https://i.imgur.com/DKlTkov.jpg?2
https://i.imgur.com/m0u55Wp.jpg?2
Just love seeing crap like this. But, it works for now. I hope I can find the proper fasteners.
https://i.imgur.com/3NDtKQk.jpg?2
https://i.imgur.com/YfYKNhC.jpg?2
Yay, new headlights, maybe now I can see at night.
https://i.imgur.com/K8DvEWi.jpg?2
Hows your wiring connections and earths?
would not be surprised if the headlight sockets are bad - easy fix - may be worth changing then to get the best connection
https://www.clipsandfasteners.com/Mi...eners-s/70.htm
About half way down the page it looks like I found them. $10 and some change for a package of 25, That should be a lifetime supply for this vehicle and the Talon.
Time will tell, plugged them in and turned them on, soooo much better than 2 busted lights with 1 some how miraculously working with water in it?Quote:
Originally Posted by pennyman1
.....
If I ever end up with water in my tail lights, I'm putting plastic fish in them:fishblue:Quote:
Originally Posted by RipperXX
You didn't want to opt for semi sealed with H4 inserts? My reasoning is the H4 globes are readily available off the shelf and you can always keep a couple of spares in the glove box.
This was fun?
https://i.imgur.com/RFn5npe.jpg?1
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Didn't spot any obvious vac leaks. Didn't have time to work on adjusting the clutch cable or checking the parking break as thoroughly as i'd like to have. But I did note that the cables are moving and everything looks to be in working order for the parking break, yet, no parking break. So I assume it also need adjusting OR the pads are are so worn, or something funky is going on inside the rear drum brakes.
Did get the turning signal that wasn't working, working, without spending a dime. Just had to clean the contacts!
Also, what's the diaphragm go too?
https://i.imgur.com/SDMYtbN.jpg?2
Looks like the EGR valve that isn't connected to vacuum. Not an issue if its not stuck open.
If that's what it is, I may at some point make a block off plate just, for assurance.Quote:
Originally Posted by pennyman1
LOL I was having acid flashbacks when I saw the engine being hauled off the tray. I got mine as a non-runner and the PO put the engine (well, most of it) on a shipping pallet and dumped it in the tray. But that is by far the filthiest G63B I have ever seen. I can imagine it being cut from a wreck from the Fury Road movie set.
At work right now. Does anyone know how to adjust the clutch cable? Is it possible to do in a parking lot over the course of a half hour for a first timer?
Real easy, there is a adjuster nut on the firewall inside the engine compartment. you do have a manual? if not, then...
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...-Manual-inside
It takes meer moments! The clutch cable can be seen coming through the firewall, as LSR Mike says. Tightening that large nut, while holding the cable, shouldn't take but a few minutes, from hood open to hood closed :)Quote:
Originally Posted by RipperXX
Attachment 20122
Sweet, well got it adjusted over the last break of the day. Pulled it into the shop since it's raining and grabbed some channel locks. Now she's engaging about 2" off the floor instead of almost at the top of the pedal.
Now...how does one adjust the parking brake? The cables are moving but I can push the truck around easily.
Similar job, slip under the truck and you will find each cable has a nut adjustment near the cab end (1st gens have the cables join together and have 1 adjustment, 2nd gen uses 2 separate cables)
But first i would jack up the rear and manually adjust the brake shoes. The star adjusters often gum up (they are supposed to self adjust when you brake in reverse). in the 2nd gen diff they are located at the top of the backing plate.
There will be a slot there, which should have a rectangular rubber bung in it.
take a flat head screwdriver and you can move the toothed wheel manually (you will need 2 screwdrivers if you want to loosen off the brake shoes as there is a lever in there which keeps it in place)
If you adjust the wheel until the shoes start to drag when the wheel is spun you should be about right
So I assume you're talking about this gear?
https://i.imgur.com/GTeZL5K.jpg?1
Couldn't do much with it but did notice once I set the break then it couldn't turn the wheel by hand, however the truck will still roll down a steep hill. And it seems to be the only one working at all. The other one, I couldn't see/ find the cog/gear??? Pretty sure it's there but for whatever reason couldn't see it. Anyway...
So soon as I got to work, parked and shut off the engine I thought.. hmm I'll park somewhere more flat. Turned the key and all power went bye bye. Okay....probably those very poor connections at the battery. I addressed the connections to the terminals but not yet the wiring to the connector.
https://i.imgur.com/Ty64TO0.jpg?1
Yeah this corroded crap has got to be dealt with. I don't have the proper connectors to do it the way I would like to, but I can do better than THIS!
So I trimmed the wires back to some, somewhat clean wire, twisted, cleaned off the corrosion on the area of the connector the wiring sits in.
https://i.imgur.com/ecL7WFM.jpg?1
And to give it some protection from water, o2 and thus corrosion for the time begin, dipped it in some very water resistant grease.
https://i.imgur.com/MoR81a7.jpg?1
And secured everything far better than it was.
https://i.imgur.com/1QCF5jf.jpg?1
Also got a lot of debrie out of the bed or as some of you call it tray? Going to have to work on the latch some, I have to use a flat head screw driver to push the locks into the tail gate. Previous idiot owner had a fuel line just dangling under the truck so low I could see a shadow of it the night I brought it home from my wife's car's headlights. For the moment I zip tied that all up much better, but this weekend I'll have to re-route it because it's going between the body and the frame which is stupid.
Also, curious, what's the normal area of the coolant temp gauge the needle resides once at operating temp? I'm thinking this is a bit low for half an hour of driving. So either the engine is being over cooled, or the sensor, wiring or gauge isn't reading correctly.
https://i.imgur.com/wCEUJ2v.jpg?1
Wouldn't be to surprised at this point if the previous owner removed the thermostat or something stupid like that.
Also, working on making a battery hold down. Unfortunately I didn't think to measure the distance between the posts and it's going to need some trimming as it's to wide. I may just toss this one and do another, only took a couple min to make. Apparently it needs to be no more than 3" long by 5" wide. I just measured the width and thought there was enough room but this comes pretty close to touching both posts and well, that could cause a less than desirable outcome...
https://i.imgur.com/tPPxjY1.jpg
Man, RipperXX, you sure got your hands full! But you're doing terrific and with a very good attitude. Many of these trucks get sold because the previous owner just stopped maintaining them...yours' is a good example.
Regarding the temp gauge - that's where mine reads at operating temperature, after a reaching almost half way before the thermostat opens. It would be a good idea to look into the system, but at present, I doubt you're getting false readings.
On the emergency brake - my experience was that the hand brake worked a whole lot better when the rear brakes were rebuilt. RockAuto has the entire spectrum of parts needed for these truckls, and I completely rebuilt mine for about $80.00.
Removing the rear drums requires two 10 MM bolts, don't try to beat the drums to death getting them off. A quick inspection is a good idea, and you'll know what's going on back there.
Great photos, thanks for keeping us abreast of your progress, and I send all the encouragement I can !
I see a full brake rebuild in your future (pretty much the first thing I look at when embarking on an act of stupidity, err, journey of discovery I mean...) I'd just notch your bespoke battery clamp where the terminals are and go with it (a bit better than an elastic tie down strap :rolleyes:) The bad thing is your truck is probably going to need...the everything, but the upside is at least it'll be rock solid if you're thorough :thumbup:
Things left to fix in order of significance to OP.
Parking brake
Change oil/filter since who knows how old it is.
Oil leak from distributor
Battery hold down
Fuel hose routing
Verify there are no vacuum leaks
Replace garbage wiring
Replace windshield wipers
Get tag lights working
Re-jet carburetor possibly replace with Webber
Inspect and replace timing belt and components if need be. As well as balance shaft belt.
remove any unused connections, wires and hoses.
Replace passenger side door
Repair or replace bench seat.
Replace seatbelts since I'm unsure if the recall has been performed.
Replace tail gate
Replace cracked windshield
Repair small spot in the bed/tray near the tail gate where it's damaged / hole
Replace rear passenger side tail light housing (got a hole in it)
Rebuild transmission
Replace shocks
Consider painting it myself?
Enjoy?
Nice little refresh there.
Should be able to keep using it through most of that too.
Looking at that brake picture, the internals look pretty gummed up. so probably worth taking the drums off and checking for oil or brake fluid leaks too. I redid the diff i swapped in recently, was very cheap with parts from rockauto (even with international shipping i can get basically every part for the price of a set of brake shoes over here)
Didn't have much free time at work today to work on the battery hold down. But I made some progress. Chopped it to size and located some J bolts in my shop. Thinking I may want to use gussets for the ears the bolts will go through so it's nice and strong. This isn't how it's going to look btw. Just looking at materials (scrap) here and brain storming.
https://i.imgur.com/JXUbyTZ.jpg?1
Looking at the fit to get a better idea of what to do about the ears, should be easy.
https://i.imgur.com/COvg6he.jpg?2
Also clips came in today for the grille.
https://i.imgur.com/GDzUklG.jpg?1
https://i.imgur.com/O3tJQEO.jpg?1
Also on the way home I noticed a Mitsubishi Mighty Max that's been sitting for about a year. Supposedly has a cracked cyl head but didn't look to bad. Asked the guy how much he wanted for it, said he would have to think about it but he was fine with selling it as it's not doing him any good sitting there. If he will let it go cheap, oh boy would it be funny if I could just jerk the head off this other engine that I got with my truck slap it on and it be derivable too.