Anyone ditched the choke on a weber 32/36?

OK so when I tuned my bone stock 2.6 with the weber carb, it was about 40 degrees (F) outside. I havent messed with the electric choke adjustment at all as I've read some of the horror stories from messing with it. However, I believe this thing is over choking the hell out of the engine on warmup, and it doesnt need to be choked in cold weather anywhere near as long as it takes to open up. I've driven this truck in weather as low as -5 F with a -15 windchill (thats -20/-26 for you Celsius guys). Those temps we usually only see a couple days out of the year, mostly in the 20 to 40 degree range through the winter with 75-95 being normal in the summer.

We recently had some unusually warm weather for february here (78 degrees 2 days ago LOL), and the truck didnt like the choke at all. I shut if off after a few seconds and had someone hold the choke all the way open. I started it back up and it ran like it was already warmed up. I just tried the same exact thing today in this mid 40 degree weather and the results were similar. I think i can deal with it being temperament in super cold weather as it doesnt happen that often. Has anyone else had a similar situation and just removed it all together? It idles like it has a massive cam in it until it opens up and is using more fuel than necessary.

The adjustment on the weber is easy - just loosen the 3 screws on the clamp on the choke cover, then turn the cover until the choke plate is fully closed when cold. tighten the screws down, push the pedal to the floor once, then start the truck. It should start up and be at 2000 or so rpm - tap the pedal to get it to drop to fast idle, about 1600. then it should step down after that as it warms up. If the choke tension is not set right, the choke will not function properly. That is what I think your problem is.

The auto choke on most carbs will cause it to dump fuel (ultimately this is the auto chokes purpose - to enrichen the A/F mix while cold). The electric choke on the Weber is a piece of cake to adjust - nothing like the choke on the factory Mikuni. You gotta realise that when you are talking sub zero temps, the air is moisture rich as well and will attempt to extinguish fuel combustion added with super cold air (the cold air by itself is awesome for fuel economy and torque). But once the engine has warmed up it can deal with one of those events (cold air vs moist air) and overcome it.

I went ahead and messed with it yesterday, I marked where it was just in case I made it worse. It was actually originally set up exactly how pennyman described, which is why I was concerned. It was tecnically set up how it "should be". The problem is that until that choke started to open, it was running so rich that it was turning the plugs black and would idle like a cammed race engine until it started to open up (about 2 or 3 minutes), at which point it would finally go to fast idle somewhere between 1500-2000rpm (I have no tach). I adjusted it so where at cold start, it is just barely open a bit (about 1/8 of an inch between plate and carb wall) instead of full choke (completely closed), and it goes straight to fast, smooth idle instead of loping at 600-800rpm for 2 minutes like it has a massive cam. I sprayed the plugs off with carb cleaner and hit them with a brush and rechecked them after a cold start warmup. They arent turning black anymore.

The first tap should have opened it up that 1/8 inch to get the fast idle, but some carbs work differently. Sounds like you got it now.