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$500 running Ram 50
I just picked up a 92 4x2at Ram 50 with 150,000 miles on it for $500 off craigslist. Word is the transmission leaks, can I get away with keeping an eye on it and topping it off for now? That's not the greatest of my worries because it runs fine despite being a little sluggish. Had some cosmetic issues but I spent 100 at the junk yard and got a great condition bench seat, passenger side window, replacement mirrors, and a nicer stereo. I'm excited to tune it up and get it to peak performance. Oh, and buying the truck inspired me to start a two year automotive tech certification program. Dropping out of political economy.
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auto or manual? both will be fine if you keep them topped up as long as its not pouring out.
With a manual you can get oil contamination on the clutch which will cause slipping depending on whats leaking
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If it's a slug you'll have a few possible problems. Dead carb - secondary vac actuator has got a split diaphragm or possibly the end of the actuator arm is disconnected (bad secondary vac unit is a common fault from age/wear and tear). Accelerator enrichment pump on the side of the carb has failed or has a blocked jet (another common fault - look down the throat on the primary side and open the throttle and if it's working you should see a shot of fuel from a small jet on the side of the throat). Dead auto choke (yet another common fault - if the choke has failed the choke butterfly won't open fully or possibly at all, tell tale layer of thick brownish grease around the underside of the wax pellet choke assembly). Non functioning vac advance unit on the distributor - poor acceleration, bit of pinging/engine knock from detonation. Dead ignition coil - more for acceleration, mid to higher rpm performance is poor, fuel economy is not great (if the coil is 15+years old, it has reached the end of it's serviceable life). Then there's the 'yeah, I know what I'm doing' engine tuner. Check plug gaps and condition, base timing, idle settings, throttle cable adjustment, throttle stop adjustment. You can screw up an engine tune pretty quick by trying to adjust base rpm by meddling with the distributor first and then taking a screwdriver to all the adjuster screws on the carb. It goes south very quickly...
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Whoa, nearly forgot - welcome to mightyram! Check this out - it's mandatory reading for all the noobs who aren't familiar with all things Mitsu that look like a truck
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...and-do-it-ASAP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by
dash
isn't 92 injected ?
:slap: Yes, yes it is. And it would pay for me to be a bit more attentive. And I could've saved myself the time of writing up that rather redundant post - and advertising my ineptitude in the process...
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Welcome, rat !
General question for the board : when did they discontinue carborated engines, or did they ?
By the way, Mr. Rat, we are always eager to see photos ! Body, engine, interior...we're voyuerists (who can't spell) and love to see these trucks in any shape...it sounds like you got a great deal.
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1989 is the last year for the carbed trucks, and the 2.0 and 2.6 motors. 1990 started the 2.4L 4G64 fuel injected 4 cyl that was used until 1996.