When I turn my key to the "on" position I noticed smoke coming out of the white thing with the blue rubber boot. I did put fluid film on the ground connections, would that cause it to smoke?
Attachment 19726
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When I turn my key to the "on" position I noticed smoke coming out of the white thing with the blue rubber boot. I did put fluid film on the ground connections, would that cause it to smoke?
Attachment 19726
I just took it apart and examined it for a couple minutes and it is some type of stone, I would guess a high temperature stone. It is porous and this has me thinking that the smoke might be from when I sprayed fluid film to keep the metal parts attached to it from rusting. I think the stone absorbed the fluid film like a whet stone and when I turn my key to the "on" position, it starts burning the fluid film soaked into the stone and thus smoking. Orrrrrrr, it's just toast and need to get a new one, it was braking apart when I was removing it from the truck. Does anyone know what the part is called and it's purpose?
The ballast resistor. It boosts voltage to the ignition components from the distributor to the spark plugs. You will know when it has failed as the truck will inexplicably just stop after a while of driving it, then immediate attempts to restart the engine will fail. Wait for 10 minutes - and it starts fine. Then it's rinse and repeat. They will do that if the ceramic body of the resistor has cracked, causing the resistor winding inside of it to develop a single hot spot. Not so easy to diagnose unless you have experienced it before - if it fails, make sure you get a replacement unit with the same OHMS rating.
*when it does fail, the resistor will be hot - I mean, hot enough to automatically burn your fingers on contact. They do get hot during normal function but not enough to invite everyone over for a barbecue...)
Absolutely wonderful response, enjoyed reading your information packed response. I did a little research regarding the ohms and I am getting different answers. Cracked open my Hanes and Chilton manual and they list different ohms for the ballast resistor. Hanes manual says 1986 and later models .... 1.35 ohms. Chilton manual is more specific with it stating an ohms of 1.25 for 2.6L 1987-88. I searched the forum and someone suggested 0.8 ohms for 2.6L 1988 MM. This is quite confusing.Quote:
Originally Posted by geezer101
Hanes Manual:
Attachment 19728
Chilton Manual:
Attachment 19729
use a 0.8 ohms - it is a dropping resistor to prevent damage to the ignition coil. If the ballast resistor was jumped out, the coil will fry from too much voltage. Some old Mopars has a 2 piece resistor, 1 really low resistance to get a hotter spark, and a higher one for regular running.
Would any 0.8 ohm ballast resistor work? Do you have any recommendations, the ones I'm finding on Google don't look anything like the one I have.beck and arnley 178-8139 would probably work but I don't know the ohms this one looks as close to identical to the one I have, but I don't know what the ohms is on it.Quote:
Originally Posted by pennyman1
O.k. first thing to establish - is it still running fine? If it is, then it's only the fluid you sprayed onto the resistor vapourising. If it ain't broke... but if it shows the symptoms I've described then you're gonna need a new ballast resistor.
It is definitely bad, I broke it while removing it from the truck. Plus the spring looked like it was coated with something which is half way gone. I can super glue it back together but it will probably come apart.Quote:
Originally Posted by geezer101
Super glue will not work. Yup, you need to replace it.Quote:
Originally Posted by BJH324JH
I hope this works...
Attachment 19781
It didn't fit perfectly, a few minor modifications had to be done to get it to fit properly. A couple copper shims and she's now snug. I threaded the holes with a tap to screw in some screws which will clamp on to the wiring. Testing will begin tomorrow. Any thoughts before I test it?
A word of caution - if the coil is over 10 years old it is probably already on it's knees. And the coil needs to be compatible with the resistor or it could run hot. There are coil/resistor combos available on ebay -
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Herko-B108-....c100010.m2109
Says for 87-89 but it will be for all years running 2.0/2.6 engines. Price is low but this vendor has a 5 star rating.
Nice to know they still make these parts for our trucks. I'll definitely keep this in mind for when I save a little bit of cash. As for now, I will proceed to test it and hope everything goes smoothly. Wish me success. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by geezer101
I cranked her up this morning and touched the ballast resistor and it's hot just cranking the truck. Is this normal? I am using a 0.8 ohm ballast resistor.
Another embarrassing moment, I installed the spark plug wire going to the ignition coil wrong. The ballast resistor is much cooler now, barley warm. She is now running, I do hear knocking coming from somewhere around the engine, I hope it is not the engine. :(
The new ballast resistor installed and working properly I think...
Attachment 19792
The part number for the 8ohm ballast resistor is MSD PART# 8214.
Thanks pennyman1 and geezer101 for the help. Greatly appreciated.
thought that ballast resistor looked familiar - I have the same one on Geronimo's MSD Blaster coil - been there for 30+ years...
You're welcome. Glad it's running now. If you find it is lacking power when you're driving it, I would still tend to look at that coil.Quote:
Originally Posted by BJH324JH
A lot of Nissan owners find they have issues from tired ignition coils that are 10+ years old.
+2 on the running. Coils can degrade over the years - I was never a fan of the 2nd gen coils, they always seemed undersized to me...
Noted. Will definitely keep that in mind.