About to do brakes on an 87 2wd — anything I need to know beforehand?

My new-to-me 87 2wd Mighty Max ( http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...21-Hello-hello ) failed MO inspection yesterday, mostly due to brake issues. So this weekend I'm going to be doing new brakes front and rear — new pads, rotors, calipers up front, new drums, shoes, hardware, wheel cylinders in back.

I've done discs and drums on other cars before (old Civic, Jeep Cherokee, Ford E-series) but haven't done them on this truck yet.

Is there anything about the brakes on these trucks that I should know going in? Are there other things I should replace while I'm in there? Any specific ordering for bleeding the brakes?

Can I just pull off the rotor or do I need to remove the wheel bearing? (If I do need to remove it, should I repack it/replace it?)

Are there odd-sized bolts anywhere? I'd prefer not to have to run out for tools halfway through.

I believe I have all necessary tools (including torque wrench and electric impact gun), but it's been a little while since I've done auto work and want to be sure I'm going in prepared.

Thanks in advance!

Hey, mattm! Perhaps my thread on rear brakes will be of service to you - http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...ll=1#post56031

The front caliper brakes are very easy, just follow the Haynes manual. No need to take the disks off...a bitch of a process...but you can re-pack the wheel bearings to some degree with them on.

I got all my parts from RockAuto, except I did not replace the drums (nor had them turned) - they were in decent condition, and new ones or turning the old ones turned out to be an expense I wanted to avoid.

Quoting from the next thread http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...ll=1#post56032 is an important starting point:

Quote:

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First, when you start out on this project, get some J. B. Blaster or Liquid Wrench parts-loosener on the brake fluid line fittings and the wheel cylinder bolts. I did this two days in advance, to give it plenty of time to work. I performed two applications, one just before working on the project.

Second, do NOT try to get those brake lines off without using a brake wrench...it looks like a box-end with a small gap, to allow the wrench to slip over the brake line, and gives maximum grip on the fitting. This truck uses a 10 MM brake wrench.

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If you get in trouble, give us a holler here on the forum :)

Good luck and keep us posted!

Thank you, royster! that thread (and those photos) are very helpful.

I've ordered new rotors, but if they're that much of a bear to replace I will leave the old ones on (assuming they pass visual inspection).

I have brake line wrenches and PB blaster, so we're good there. (Actually, since you mention it I should probably start spraying bolts now...)

You're welcome, mattm!

As long as the rotors don't have deep grooves in them, they should pass inspection. I scruffed mine up with sandpaper to break any glaze.

Glad I could help.