86, 2.0, G63b

Hello, and thank you for having this forum. I have had my truck a few years now and engine performance has slowly deteriorated. It now is leaking oil, I think around the distributor, and also smokes badly, especially on take off. It knocks and pings as well. My check EGR light came on the other day too.

I was pondering rebuilding engine and doing research on it when I came across this forum. I am not a mechanic by any stretch, but I am mechanically inclined.

I guess my questions are, do you guys think it does need a rebuild and where is the best place to get the parts. I know I need a timing belt and need to fix oil leak and EGR.

Thanks

Michael

Welcome to the forum. I would pull the plugs first and see what their condition is - they should look tan if running normal. Smoking on takeoff may mean bad valve guide seals - an easy repair that doesn't require a lot of work to achieve. The EGR valve can be pulled off and the passages cleaned out to restore its function. The oil leak could be the valve cover gasket or an o ring or seal on the distributor. Look for the sticky on what to do when you buy one of these trucks - it is loaded with information.

Hi and welcome to mightyram. Check your plugs as pennyman has suggested. Make sure they are gapped correctly and the timing is within specs. What other symptoms are showing? If you have lost midrange to top end power the secondary actuator on the carb may be shot. Also check the vacuum advance on the distributor is functioning as well (this will definitely cause pinging/knocking if it's failed). A tired coil may also cause engine knock (mostly in midrange upwards as well). Oil leaks are easy enough to fix unless it's a rear crank seal - then it's engine out time. Valve stem seals are the #1 cause of oil consumption and blowing smoke on take off. If you know you're getting blow-by then you might be ready for an engine rebuild.

Thanks for the info. I will start working on some of the easier things this weekend.

Welcome to the forum :)

As Pennyman mentioned about the Sub EGR valve, here is the location and a little bit on what happens with it.

Attachment 19577
Mikuni Carb - The Sub EGR valve - Servicing

Above for you Mikuni Carb Owners is the Sub-EGR valve. This valve refeeds exhaust back into the carb for reburning any possible left over fuels after it's first trip into motor. These valves tend to get very carboned up with black soot to the point it will cause a gas peddle to stick. The valve will get stuck in the soot and lodge itself in it's mounting and cause the gas peddle to have a strange sticking feeling. These valves are very easy to clean and should be checked occasionally.
Simply remove the valve and lightly clean all the carbon from the valve shaft. If you have a bottle brush to fit the opening the valve cylinder fits in, great. Push it in and clean the opening as well before returning the cylinder.
This entire line can build up with carbon like a clogged blood vessel. It goes all the way through the head and can completely seal up after years of use. I clean mine with a coat hanger to remove the soot buildup thru the head. The carb and intake line can do the same exact thing too. Clean as much as you can out of the trail and reinstall you're valve. Service the throttle arm and make sure it moves the sub valve normally when completed.

To remove, simple remove "C" clip and pull the pin out with the spring. Move the valve arm clear of the removal of the cylinder and slide the cylinder out. Installation is in the reverse order.

I did a cylinder compression test. All 4 cylinders did about the same thing. First crank around 90 and then building with each crank until ending about 190 on crank 6 or 7. I put a bit of oil in one cylinder and tested again and got up to about 230. From what I’ve read that means rings are worn.