Qustion Inductiony.

Hi guys. Sorry for the misspelled title. I accidentally pressed enter. Induction.

How much better is the Weber, I think it's the 32/36 better than the stock carb. if any?
How much better are the side drafts than the 32/36, if any?

As of now my hands are tied with the smog requirements here in CA. There is talk they will extend the exempt laws to 1980 but it seems it's a year or two out.

Once lifted, I will build the motor to my spec along with the above mentioned induction.

Thanks for the feedback.

the 32/36 is better that the stock carb, with the 2 stage 2 barrel arrangement. The 38 / 38 DGES is the next step up - 2 barrel synchronous. the side drafts are the all out performance choice in carbs, but hard to tune and keep in tune, and will drop gas mileage by 30%. The Hayabusa throttle bodies are another choice, but require a custom modded manifold and a Megasquirt to operate the injectors, but can make the motor come alive. A better cam is needed to get the most out of any choice above the 32/36.

The 32/36 will lose out a teeny bit on bottom end torque but across midrange and top end it will open up hidden power and is better on economy when driven conservatively. Add porting, a good flowing exhaust and header, re-tune the ignition and a wider duration cam and you'll be set. The 38 is too big IMO for an engine less than 3.0. As pennyman has stated, side drafts aren't for a daily driver and to be honest have had their day as a performance upgrade (sorry guys, don't hate on me). To figure out what induction will work for you, maybe crunch the numbers. I have no idea if my rant for calculating CFM for an engine build has been useful but like I've said, it's nothing new to the game. Just a bunch of equations that will point you in the right direction -

http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...ing-lawnmowers

A good flowing exhaust? DH Headers in mild steel? Is the SS worth the money. Anyone here using these?
What do you mean re-tune the ignition. How's this possible?

Re-tuning the ignition is simply a case of altering the advance/retard on the timing. The factory tune is based on setting at idle rpm which is way off the mark for real world driving. When you make a modification like swapping the Mikuni for a Weber, the Weber is more sensitive to engine tune and won't offer the kind of performance improvement it's capable of (even the factory Mikuni can do better with a change in ignition timing).

Simple enough procedure (helps if you can get someone else to assist you) - with the engine running, hold engine rpm @ 2000 and undo the distributor retaining nut. Gently swing the distributor between advance/retard until the engine rpm increases by itself (this is the 'sweet' spot) and then retard the ignition adjustment just a touch (this will allow for the fact the engine isn't under load). Lock the distributor retaining nut up. Now the engine is tuned to run in mid range rpm (cruising speed and gear shift point). You should notice an improvement in midrange power and an increase in top speed (as much as 10 mph with the Weber)

As for exhaust systems, it's all relative. A good SS header is less likely to crack (same with mild steel) but it all depends on build quality. You are really less likely to have a weld fail on a stainless system due to them being TIG welded but that being said I've seen mild steel headers last forever - and I've seen crap ones snap off at the flange plate, pin holes in welds etc. I think mild steel headers are fine personally but given the chance I would always opt for the rest of the exhaust to be made out of 2" stainless steel and a custom glass pack muffler. It will last the life of the truck. If you know a shop with a good rep, use them.

For the 2.6 a 2.25" exhaust is best with mild to moderate mods. It is the right size without being overly large - you can go too big and lose bottom end on a street engine.

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Originally Posted by pennyman1

For the 2.6 a 2.25" exhaust is best with mild to moderate mods. It is the right size without being overly large - you can go too big and lose bottom end on a street engine.

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Agreed. 2" is a bit restrictive for anything over 2.0 Biggest hurdle in improving performance on the 2.6 is gas flow restriction.