Is this done w/ vac hose on or off the distributor? Can't seem to find any info.
Thanks.
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Is this done w/ vac hose on or off the distributor? Can't seem to find any info.
Thanks.
I left the advance hooked up when I timed my 2.6l, so I'd say it's a safe bet to leave it.
Hi and welcome to mightyram. As the distributor takes vacuum from the carb at a point above the throttle plate, it doesn't generate vacuum until the throttle is opened. Short answer - leave the vac hose connected.
Thanks geezer101, that makes sense. My other problem is getting the dist.(remanufactured) in correctly, it will run, but it's either advanced or retarded with no adjustment in between. It's like the gear doesn't have "fine" enough teeth. I have had it in and out way too many times, very frustrating. Thanks again.Quote:
Originally Posted by geezer101
My shop manual recommends setting cylinder #1 to tdc on the compression stroke, aligning the mating marks on the distributor, then carefully installing it. If that doesn't work you might want to make sure the distributor gear is the right size.
I did not compare the old w/ the new, I guess I better check. It just appears to be no happy medium between too far advanced and too retarded. I can achieve 5 degrees BTDC with the dist rotated all the way to the limit, but it doesn't run well?????!!!!
Thanks again.
You may have a dead vacuum advance on your distributor. This will nerf your engine with no effort at all. Take the vac hose off from the carb end and suck on it - if you can draw air through it continuously the diaphragm has split and you either need to install a new vac unit or get another operational distributor. I have been struggling with a similar issue and finding a good used distributor is no mean feat as the all seem to suffer the same fate.
This is a reman dist. just purchased. I know the advance was working because the idle was set way too high and the timing would change by removing the hose. Once I corrected the idle, the timing didn't change by removing the hose, but I will verify the diaphragm is OK. I've been a Nissan Tech for over 35 yrs. but it's been a long time since I've had to deal w/ a dist. I also need to check the cam timing as well. The truck is in my SIL's barn, I need to get it up to my garage.
Thanks again.
O.k. seeming that you are more the new school guy I'll give you an old school tuning trick - forget the factory specs (well, not to start off with). Set the timing as per factory specs (this will establish a base line for the engine tune). You may need a buddy or some way to lock the throttle position to perform the next part of the tune up. With the engine running and held @ 2000 rpm, loosen the distributor retaining nut and gently swing the distributor between advance and retard until you strike a 'sweet spot' and the engine rpm increases by itself, then dial the advance back just a touch (this will create a buffer to accommodate for the engine not being under load/crap fuel). As an engine normally doesn't operate at idle speed the static tune isn't that efficient for real world driving. You should find the engine will be more responsive and has made an improvement in top speed.
Forgot to add that Mitsubishi recommended the G63B engine should be run on 97+ octane fuel. 95 is o.k. and my personal recommendation is to fuel up with 95 and tune it to run on that fuel. Should make a noticeable difference...
Weird that you can't get a stable engine run between full advance/retard. There "shouldn't" be a problem with cam timing unless it's sitting in a barn for a reason (like someone else couldn't set the cam timing correctly and gave up) If the belt is out a tooth it will cause chaos. And now for something really annoying - distributor out of sync (test this if you have confirmed that everything 'appears' to be set up correctly - timing belt and distributor install)
When you say you can't get a stable idle are you #1 setting the distributor and full advancing and it shows a sign of life then #2 bumping the distributor a tooth forward and fully retarding the timing and getting a similar result? There is a weird phenomenon where for some reason the distributor is out half a tooth. I have run into this myself and it resulted in lots of colorful language, high blood pressure and a few hours wasted trying to figure out what I had done wrong even though I know Mitsubishi engines and did it text book style. I solved it by swapping the firing order of the leads from #1 and #4, then #3 and #2. Set the distributor alignment mark where the retaining nut is located - and it fired and ran first shot. Don't have a clue why this would happen but it had me stumped until I tested my theory out.
This played on my mind for a while - I have a feeling I pulled the distributor out and rotated the shaft 180 degrees to semi align the rotor with the newly swapped #1 for #4 terminal when I changed the firing order. I ran into this problem a long time ago (more than 15 years so although I remember the frustration this problem caused I had forgotten exactly what I had done to rectify it). It doesn't sound like it would change it's gearing synchronisation but for some reason, it did. I don't want to hand out dud advice to anyone so hopefully this didn't lead you off-course.
Tonite I set the engine @ TDC #1 cyl, removed the dist., lined up the marks on the housing and gear, installed dist. with the center of the adj. slot lined up with the stud. Tried to start it, kicked back like too far advanced, rotated dist., fired and ran great. Checked timing with timing lite, it's about 25-30 degrees BTDC, which, if my memory serves me, is advanced. Drove it, ran great. Put it back on TDC #1, pulled upper timing belt cover, cam marks line up. Belt is cracked, getting one tomorrow. As far as NEW SCHOOL GUY, I've been turning wrenches since '74 professionally, In fact I started @ a dodge dealership, but this thing has me stumped. Thanks geezer for all your input.
All good. When you spend time with OBDII's and EMS (and canbus...grrr), neanderthal tech is like some weird dark magic. A lot of the old mechanics tricks are forgotten. Glad you got it up and running. With these engine a timing light is really only any good as a diagnostic tool. Dialling in an ignition tune by 'feel' seems to always yield better performance out of RFEM (right foot engine management) and even OBD I.
I now have the front of the engine apart-belts are cracked-all marks line up except the balance shaft was 180 out. Waiting for parts now. 31 yo vehicle, you would think parts would be readily available!!!!!:)
Be careful with balance shaft alignments - they can be deceptive. Does it line up after 2 crank rotations? It might actually be right. We had a recent new member who was struggling with the shaft alignment marks and wasn't experienced enough to figure out that it took 4 cycles for the balance shafts to return to their original alignment positions. We all goof once in a while (some of us more often than others lol)