Grave news.

Well, it happened, exactly what I was afraid of. As I prepared to change my head gasket, the #2 spark plug didn't want to come out. I got the breaker bar and got it loose, it was really tough to pull. Once out, my stomach dropped, the end was mangled badly. So I pulled my valve cover and saw all I needed to see, or perhaps it was what I didn't see. My #2 intake valve was gone, all that sat in its place was its retainer, and an empty spring. So now I am faced with a delema, rebuild the turd 2.6 or find a junk yard engine with EFI that fits the KM145 transmission? My budget for repairs/replacement is $2k-ish, and I am currently unaware of how damaged the engine is, besides the dropped valve.

I have a rebuilt short block 2.6 that was an 87 I think, and an 89 2.6 from a 2wd that is a wide block that I am parting out - it is supposed to run, but I haven't tried to start it yet. I plan to try before I pull it. I am in the 'burgh, so I am not sure how close you are to get either one - PM me if interested.

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Originally Posted by pennyman1

I have a rebuilt short block 2.6 that was an 87 I think, and an 89 2.6 from a 2wd that is a wide block that I am parting out - it is supposed to run, but I haven't tried to start it yet. I plan to try before I pull it. I am in the 'burgh, so I am not sure how close you are to get either one - PM me if interested.

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I'll keep that in consideration, although, if my engine is completely toast (non-rebuildable), I'd really like to find a dependable engine with EFI that's not a 2.6l. My local pick a part has a few 90s cars with 4g63s, should I pick one of those up?

starquest dudes still got plenty 2.6(wide block) parts too, if ya get stuck. Pistons lower compression tho
http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/i...owtopic=154207

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Originally Posted by RamD50

I'll keep that in consideration, although, if my engine is completely toast (non-rebuildable), I'd really like to find a dependable engine with EFI that's not a 2.6l. My local pick a part has a few 90s cars with 4g63s, should I pick one of those up?

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All FWD 4G63 engines are narrow blocks so unless you are prepared to swap transmissions you're not going to be able to use them. That being said, swapping the transmission will open up options.

Well I've decided for finantial purposes that the 2.6 will live on, maybe. I definatly need a new piston and head. My engine only has 52,000 miles on it. what should I replace, what can I save? How can I do this economically and quickly, I move back to school in 20 days and want my truck.

I would walk away from that engine and get a used runner. If it's been through a catastrophic failure you can bet good money that the bearings, crank and oil pump have been beat on badly. Once you start wrenching on it, you are committed to the cause - it's a shame it's only done 52K. You could get a whole truck for the $2k and have enough change to do a couple of worthwhile upgrades (this is where you might get lucky and find a 2.0 with a 5 speed cheap). Half a day with an engine lifter and you'd be back on the road.

So, after some investigating, I've found the cause of my engine failure; the lifters were installed upside down, causing them to wear out the tops of the valves.

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Originally Posted by RamD50

So, after some investigating, I've found the cause of my engine failure; the lifters were installed upside down, causing them to wear out the tops of the valves.

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Damn, not good news. So is it salvageable with a replacement head or is it game over for your engine?

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Originally Posted by geezer101

Damn, not good news. So is it salvageable with a replacement head or is it game over for your engine?

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You had just suggested my bearings might be shot, but if you think I can salvage my crank and bearings, then I can rebuild it within my budget. If I do rebuild it, I definitely will re-ring, but can I get away with just replacing my damaged piston?

If it's only done 52k and the bores haven't been damaged, I think you could get away with it. 52k from a rebuild is enough to have it bedded in properly.

I have a small nic in the cylinder that dropped to valve, but I can't even catch a fingernail in it. I even already have a freeze plug set.

WOw, RamD50....sorry for your news on your finds. Any chance to grab an occasional snap shot and post would be a great visual on your repairs. We all like them pictures. I noticed your freeze plug changing, perhaps a block warmer could be a good update if you don't have one yet if it gets freezing there in Ohio. I hope all goes well on your repairs. If you replace a piston, be sure you get the exact same manufacture. Not sure if weights of pistons change among them, but I think the next time I pull pistons, I will buy a scale and match the weights on them and rods using a dremel. Probably wouldn't make a huge difference, but it definitely couldn't hurt. Good Luck! :)

Looking at pistons and ring sets. Can any one tell me if this looks good or not? http://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/eBa...=0&cspheader=1

They don't specify what brand of piston/rings they will supply but they appear to be all of the better quality components. When you get a cheap piston that's been cast and the crowns look like they have barely seen any machining, you know they are GARBAGE. If you're going to buy them, get a small set of digital kitchen scales and weight match them yourself (you'll probably find that the piston and rod assemblies will only differ by a few grams but when you have chunks of metal moving at a few thousand rpms it starts to add up) How much for the piston and ring sets? Always google reviews on businesses to see what their customer support and sales are like. I know you can't please everybody but if the majority of the feedback is critical/negative, it should be enough to tell you to look elsewhere.

This set is about $90 plus s&h.