put in new redline weber K610 kit

My cam battery ran out. I have it in the box and all laid out then pics of what I removed. Nothing of it installed yet. It started easy, it ran snappy and seemed to idle high. After I refilled the coolant I loosened the idle stop screw but the linkage didn't pull back to it. So I made it flush and then used the set screw you do first when resetting these and turned it in a half turn and that seems to be about right.
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there is a 1/8th plastic spacer in here under that gasket. I have no idea why but it wasn't necessary for the new kit.
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The new kit suggested an idea I never heard of which is to soak the gaskets in oil for a few minutes or to grease them before using them. I used oil. Then patted them dry. I think they will seal better. The bolt hole in the front of the dog leg is stripped when the bolt hits bottom. If it becomes a problem the hole goes all the way through so I will drill it and put a bolt through with a nut on the other end. When the cam battery is charged I will takes pics of the instructions and the installed carb and post them. Oh yea look at pic 5 I had to flip that slot the bolt is through for the throttle cable to the other side so that the cable didn't rub the linkage once the new carb was installed.
All of the rubber or neoprene caps I had on were cracked and useless so I replaced them with the silicon ones I got.

EDIT- The camera is hiccuping or something since the SD card only shows one pic but I took 3 of the carb with the air cleaner off. Anyway here is a pic of it from the front. you can see how I changed the throttle cable anchor point. and the 6 pages of instructions I used.
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Nice work. What did it take time wise to install the kit out of the box? And did you modify your air cleaner assembly or use an adapter?

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Originally Posted by geezer101

Nice work. What did it take time wise to install the kit out of the box? And did you modify your air cleaner assembly or use an adapter?

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As you can see it was really just replacing an existing Weber. It took maybe 2 hours. The hardest part is tightening the nuts on the studs. I re-tightened them after I got it hot and filled the coolant. There wasn't but a 1/4 turn on two of them. The kit came with curved washers to help them stay tight. [EDIT- The most time is refilling the coolant which you have to drain below the level of the intake so that when you remove the old carb coolant doesn't fill the intake manifold.]
The air cleaner is a project I did last year. Got it free when I picked up the grill. The idiots at the junk yard burned up and entire 85 ram50 using a cutting torch to pull parts off it! They lit the gas tank on fire! The grill was the only part that survived. I suppose some of the body metal would work. I had to go at the air cleaner with a wire wheel and paint it. I posted pics on here to include a spacer I made with craft store cork pads I coated with gasket caulk and I got some longer hex bolts to reach through the spacer.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...-to-Weber-carb

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Originally Posted by 85Ram50

The idiots at the junk yard burned up and entire 85 ram50 using a cutting torch to pull parts off it! They lit the gas tank on fire! The grill was the only part that survived...

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:slap:

New (Cardone rebuilt) distributor is on its way. I'm still debating whether or not I want to remove all the front end stuff I just got installed and reset the timing and balancer belts. I'm mainly worried about breaking the clips that hold the bottom of the grill in.

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Originally Posted by 85Ram50

New (Cardone rebuilt) distributor is on its way. I'm still debating whether or not I want to remove all the front end stuff I just got installed and reset the timing and balancer belts. I'm mainly worried about breaking the clips that hold the bottom of the grill in.

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It is easy enough to remove the grill - use a small flat blade screw driver and pry the little locking tabs on the ends of the clips from the front of the grill one by one and the grill will come off (look closely where the grill clip locations are and you'll see them from the front face of the grill) The end ones seem to be the trickiest to unclip.

I don't know what I did but I had it out on the highway today and its like it was when I bought it! Obviously something in my rebuilding of the carb or the parts I used was affecting it. Most of the problems are gone. My guages have been staying off since before I installed it so I can't track MPGs yet. I think it might be worth it to go ahead and do the timing and balancer belts when I install the distributor. Tomorrow I finally get it in for the front end alignment since I did all the joints and steering parts last fall.

i don't know if i ever told you or not but i did like you did on the air cleaner it worked out great :thumbup: like you i used the bolts on the crab to hold the breather on and the 4 clamps hold the top on no movement @ all lol i used a bolt and wing nut threw the center hole just for looks . the first time i took my little truck down to one of my local auto shops the first thing they did was try and unscrew the wing nut lol i said whoops forgot to tell you about that .:lmao:

Cool glad it helped. If I had known about the existence of an adapter I would have gone with that myself. I may still take pennyman up on his offer.
EDIT-
got the alignment, good thing too it was way off and might be the reason for the pull right when I had a heavy load and braked hard.
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Edit2- I forgot to mention that the mechanic said the nut on the tie rod end was loose! If anyone remembers the front end rebuild I did one of the Moog Tie rod ends came sans Cotter pin or hole and no grease zerk. That is the one that had come loose. I just bought a new drill index and box of cotter pins to take care of this later today or tomorrow. Oh yea it drives a lot better now.
off topic does anyone know the correct sizes of the screws that hold the steering wheel shaft cover on? Its never gone back on right since I took it off the first time. It was right after I did that when the dash gauges started going off intermittently. At one point I replaced the circuit panel on the back of the dash insert with one from another Ram 50 so I didn't lose the OE odometer. It's just a sheet of plastic with printed circuits on it.

Update- The gauges are working intermittently since I changed a fuse. They worked last night but not this morning then they worked this after noon.
The update is this I have 90 miles on this tank of gas and it hasn't yet come down past the full mark! Before I changed the carb at 90 miles it was down to 3/8 tank. I never took a chance going past 150 miles and it always took 14 or 15 gals.
Also I have had this happen twice since the new carb; In the afternoon when the heat is high the carb starts revving on its own and idles very high, it seems too also stick and want to accelerate in the afternoon heat. I mention this because of JamesW thread "Food for Thought" in gen maint section, I had one of those spacers under my old carb. I am going to put it back in to see if this problem goes away.
Anyway I am happy with the new carb and the new front end now that its aligned. Next stop fix these darn gauges! :)