here we go

Hello everybody!!! I purchased an 84 Ram Royal 50 4x4 vin # jb7fk44e4fp501376.... i would really like to restore this vehicle as a daily driver. It's straight as an arrow, turns over but wont start....I'm a contractor by trade so I know how to get things done.... that being said my mechanical abilities aren't the best. I joined this forum in the hopes of gaining direction an technical info on how to get this beauty up to speed. I do live in California so I do have to contend with smog requirements... anyone interested in helping me get this show started??

welcome!.......show us some pics & i'm sure the comments will start flying....I'm under the impression you have completed the usual swop-out of cap, rotor, wires, plugs.

i haven't done a thing yet... i will post pics this week! (need help from wife) i take that back,,, i did pull the wheels off and will be taking them to the shop tomorrow for some new shoes, the wheels are polished stock aluminum mags off of a toyota4x4. the tires on it where dust and i need to get it to the shop for diagnosis on saturday

anybody got recommendations on where to run down window trim and door rubber?

Hey Ragtime isnthe general consensus to get parts from dealer {wires cap plugs} or to the point I want to use best products regardless of cost comparisons

looking at other threads i came across Pierce Manifolds (weber carbs) out of Gilroy... anybody use them?? feedback??

Factory leads are a little thin when it comes to shielding and you can get better quality for less. I'd recommend 8.8mm spiral wound leads and a beefier transformer coil for a start. Anything that can improve fuel burn will make a little more power and improve fuel economy. Go with a brand name distributor cap and rotor button. There is a debate on what plugs are 'best' but as long as pick a plug with a heat range to suit your engine you can't go wrong (fun fact - tuners who show up to HP shoot outs use the cheapest, nastiest plugs they can get for a dyno run as it will peak the HP reading a touch, but use the most expensive platinum plugs for driving). If you're in Cali you got no hope of passing emissions with a Weber carb. If you're going to go rogue on emissions, Pierce and Redline are a good place to start - they sell genuine Webers and adapter kits. Hopefully you've read up on Webers and the pitfalls of buying one, if not...

http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...carb-Becareful!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks Geezer! would you mind sharing more about the coil situation... my knowledge is limited but i'm excited to learn

Getting the right coil is tricky as if you one you buy is the wrong impedance, it'll either kill the ICM in the distributor or just run hot all the time. This is the type I have been recommended to use as a replacement over the oil filled coil - http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Ignition...lYv5H7&vxp=mtr
I can get these used from JY's here in Australia and there are plenty around.

would anybody care to throw a general descending order "no start" check list out there. The shop can't take it til saturday but more importantly if I do it myself i will have a better understanding of my vehicle which is my ultimate goal. The guy i bought it from mumbled something about ignition...I charged the battery, it turns over, sprayed a little carb cleaner in the carb still no start??

Simple ignition test - pull a lead and try to turn it over. If you can't get a spark to jump from the lead to a ground point on the engine, the ignition has an issue (dead coil, faulty ICM in the distributor or a blown fuse/wiring fault) If you have a test light/multi meter check that the coil is getting power from the ignition as to eliminate a blown fuse or wiring fault from under the dash to the engine bay.

so i'm starting with draining the fuel tank...(putting new gas) I downloaded the Mitchell auto tech bulliten for my vehicle and there is nothing on fuel pumps??? Is there one in the tank? and or others??

The fuel pump is a mechanical unit mounted to the side of the cylinder head in the gap of the inlet manifold. The best way to get to the hoses to the pump is get the front of the truck off the ground, take off the drivers' side wheel and reach in from under the wheel well. Seems like a drastic way to get access but it will save your back and makes it easier to reach the hoses in and out of the pump. There are 3 hoses attached to the pump - the main fuel hose in (5'8"), main fuel hose to the carb (1/4"), and the accelerator enrichment pump mounted on the carb* (1/4" - there is one hose going from the fuel pump to the square pump housing on the side of the carb and another hose going back out to fuel return line). Take a good look at the orientation of the hoses (where they are going to and coming from), replace one hose at a time (crossing fuel hoses will cause the engine not to run, it is easy enough to get wrong...) I put up a post on your other thread answering your questions about the fuel hoses and removal of the fuel tank, if you get stuck and can't find an answer to something you've run into put it out there to the members on the forum. These guys know everything (mostly, unless it's not about your truck...)

Attachment 19032here she is