Replacing lock bolts on the rear wheels for a 1st gen

I was bemused to discover that the shop didn't properly tighten the nuts one of the rear wheel of my 1984 D50 this afternoon (after hearing the hub cap clinking a bit). When removing the wheels, one of the nut, which was incorrectly tightened by the shop, sheared off.

I'm looking through the FSM and it's not entirely clear if and how I can replace just one of those bolts.


Any tips on how to do handle this?

First, get compensated from the shop you went to. Second, tell us the shop you went to so we can avoid it.

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Originally Posted by BJH324JH

First, get compensated from the shop you went to. Second, tell us the shop you went to so we can avoid it.

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Without good proof, I don't have the energy to bicker with the shop about it for the bolt. I'll likely just avoid them in the future.

Hi
are you saying that one of the wheel studs have broken?

They are a pressfit from the rear. you will need to press it out from the front (road side) and press a new one in from the rear (axle side). Lots of instructional vids online to diy

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Originally Posted by tortron

Hi
are you saying that one of the wheel studs have broken?

They are a pressfit from the rear. you will need to press it out from the front (road side) and press a new one in from the rear (axle side). Lots of instructional vids online to diy

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You're right, it's a wheel stud. I always forget the proper terms. My main concern is that I'm not entirely sure how to work with these real wheels and their drum breaks in a fast and easy way. The disc brake assembly on the front-end is much more familiar to me.

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Originally Posted by frankwrench

You're right, it's a wheel stud. I always forget the proper terms. My main concern is that I'm not entirely sure how to work with these real wheels and their drum breaks in a fast and easy way. The disc brake assembly on the front-end is much more familiar to me.

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The wheel studs can be found on rockauto. Drum brakes aren't all that complicated, they are just tedious to work with. If you need any help just ask.

Well, it turns out to be a *lot* easier than I anticipated. After doing a hot-take, remembering how drum brakes work, I disengaged the parking brake and the drum came right off. Luckily the brake assembly inside the drum has a few open areas to pound the old wheel stud out and thread a new one through.

I purchased this wheel stud (http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...0275/02990.oap) which have a little bevel before the threading which appears to press against the inside of the drum preventing a completely flush press. I think tomorrow I'm going to buy enough to re-do the entire back two wheels just to have everything sit nice and even. :shrug:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by frankwrench

Well, it turns out to be a *lot* easier than I anticipated. After doing a hot-take, remembering how drum brakes work, I disengaged the parking brake and the drum came right off. Luckily the brake assembly inside the drum has a few open areas to pound the old wheel stud out and thread a new one through.

I purchased this wheel stud (http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...0275/02990.oap) which have a little bevel before the threading which appears to press against the inside of the drum preventing a completely flush press. I think tomorrow I'm going to buy enough to re-do the entire back two wheels just to have everything sit nice and even. :shrug:

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Attachment 19004

Went ahead and replaced the rear 12 wheel studs, it was easier than I anticipated after picking up some tips from a number of youtube videos, like this https://youtu.be/rjMCvzvZ0us?t=355

Hoorah!

Attachment 19010