Timing Is Right I'm Sure But Still Sounds Like Waaaay Out

First question: Read the forums, searched everywhere, put into practice and still sounds like the timing is out.
Ok so last year I rebuilt an engine on my 1985 Ram 50 2.0L that I bought from someone who didn't have a clue about repairs and the belt was out of alignment and distributor was out and mains were out. I rebuilt the engine with a new crank and shells, belt etc. and gaskets. Went together perfectly. Installed a low psi fuel pump, Weber carb and low pressure fuel regulator. Set the belt at TDC and installed the distributor. Now when it turns over is sounds like it's locking up as if the timing on the distributor is out.
So I need to know how to install the dissi using the marks on the body and the gear. So far I lined up TDC and lined up the mark that is on the top side of the gear on the distributor looking down and the body mark. BUT.. when doing so, the mark on the other end of the gear is obviously offset and when the distributor is inserted it turns as it should. I can't get my head around this! Then the rotor doesn't line up at #1 position. Do I line up the bottom mark or the top mark? Does the rotor NOT have to line up at #1 but instead is lined up BEFORE #1?
Next question: Wired up fuel pump to a relay, through a 3 pin safety oil pressure switch. The extended post in the stickies shows how to wire up this method but only says wire one wire to ignition, 1 wire to starter and 1 wire to the relay. My pump works with the ignition on and not cranking. Does that seem right? The post doesn't say what color wires to use from the ignition or the starter. Does anyone have a schematic or which color wires to use?
I did have it running very roughly at one point a year ago with the Weber carb. connected wrong but feel it's the distributor at fault.

Hi and welcome to mightyram. The distributor has an alignment dimple machined into the gear. As you insert the distributor, it twists back one tooth, pulling it out of alignment. The rotor should line up with the mark for #1 or it's wrong and won't fire. Now if you take the distributor out and bump it forward one tooth and you can't get it to fire on full advance or retard, you have a weird phenomenon that does occur sometimes where it's out half a tooth. It requires the firing order to be swapped around changing #1 to #4 spark plug and then swapping all the other leads to match the new firing order. I found this out by chance when I did a head swap and did everything 'by the book'. Once I spotted the issue I got it to fire first shot. Ignition power is a thick black wire with a white stripe. It taps into the ignition system and the fuel cut solenoid on the Mikuni carb. Also make sure your coil is healthy as they do get tired and cause misfires.

The 2.0 cam mark is just under the flat on the head. There easy to get off by 1 tooth.

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^camoit gets the donut. This is often overlooked when setting the cam gear timing. Some guys assume the cam mark faces upward like the mark on the crank sprocket and results in the cam being way out. Bear in mind that there are a number of variables that affect the alignment marks on the belts and general ignition timing, but as long as they're pretty close it should fire.

I appreciate you guys comments. At the moment my fuel pump isn't getting fuel to the carb. so I am working on that for a start today then onto the timing again.

A new fuel filter may be needed. They do take some time to get fuel to the carb if they are run our of gas.