1988 Doge Ram 50 Sport rebuild suggestions?

I finally got around to checking piston compression and got <90 PSI on all cylinders… It could be that my compression checking tool was off, but given that the exhaust was whitish and spark plugs (at least two of them, see picture below) had a good amount of white residue on them, I am certainly suspecting a blown gasket or even a cracked head.

Attachment 18202


What I have:
- what looks like a completely stock 1988 Doge Ram 50 Sport with 225K miles on it (with an exception of aftermarket lights installed on front and back bumpers — that’s gotta go)
- G54B 2.6L engine
- 5 speed MT
- Sport/maxi cab (yay!)

I want to make it run well as a daily driver with reasonable mods that make sense to do while the engine is out and other parts need to be replaced, even preemptively to save time in the future.

So, my first — and most important — question is: are there any reasons for NOT rebuilding a G54B block? In other words, should I invest money into a different block and rebuild it instead? I have a limited budget, but I hate to do/pay for things twice.

If it makes sense to stick to G54B, anything extra I should invest in at the machine shop (i.e., three-angled valve job) or do myself while the engine is pulled apart (i.e., port intake/exhaust)?

Reading the forums, I have also compiled a to-do list I am thinking about:

• do a complete tuneup and install MCA Jet Valve elimination kit as per New Owner sticky thread (worth paying for premium parts recommendations?)
• replace water pump
• replace oil pump
• install timing chain kit (recommendations?)
• install Weber 32/36 (to replace a dying Mikuni)
• install electric fuel pump
  
  • install relay to turn pump off if engine cuts off unexpectedly
  • delete mechanical pump
  
  
• replace clutch (recommendations?)
• replace ignition coil (recommendations?)
• possibly install a header (recommendations?)

I guess I am in for a good amount of money, but is there anything else I should budget for now in conjunction with engine rebuild?

OR…. :( should I cut my losses and invest into a younger fuel injected little truck if I plan to keep it for a while?

Your list looks good for the rebuild. You can step up to ARP head studs instead of head bolts for a better torque down of the head. There are mixed reviews on the balance shaft elimination kits - unless the motor is full race, or it spun a balance shaft bearing, most say stay with the balance shafts. The jet valve elimination kit is good if you are reusing the stock head, or get a non-jet valve replacement head. The porting of the head is another area of mixed opinion - some say it helps, others say leave it alone. Weber 32 / 36 carb is a great idea - make sure it is a real weber with a creme color choke. Clutch kits are plentiful - I run the Centerforce dual friction setup in Geronimo. For a header you have limited choices - Pacesetters are cheap, and cheaply made - if you want the best, look at the DG headers listed in the parts section. For the electric fuel pump, use a Holley or Mallory - carter pumps work but are very noisy. All other parts can be OEM or a quality aftermarket brand, like GMB for water pump, cloyes for timing set, and MSD for ignition coil.

Thanks for the info, pennyman1!


In case I can't reuse my stock head, what non-jet valve replacement head should I look for and where?


Any engine rebuild kits you'd recommend? I saw some kits by DNJ, but am not sure if they are any good.


I checked out DG headers -- they look really nice! My understanding is that they will require the rest of exhaust system to be replaced. What would be the most optimal exhaust setup if I want to keep the noise down?


Is there a site or sites you can recommend for getting the parts?

DNJ kits are Chinese and of questionable quality, I would stay away from them. ITM is also Chinese but seems to be of better quality. Look on RockAuto for rebuild kits as well. As far as the exhaust, it depends on what you consider noisy - Flowmaster has several models that go from really loud to throaty depending on construction. Borla and Magnaflow are other choices - The new system will need to be custom bent - use 2.25" pipe for good flow. Marnal is one brand of head, but there are others out there - even some for forklifts. All are usually around 250 - 300 for a bare head. Odessa cylinder heads sell bare and complete heads, but some people on here have had issues with their heads, so beware.

Thanks again for your help, pennyman1!

Before I pull apart the engine, I want to flush the cooling system. My current plan for that is to:
(1) put in Prestone Radiator Flush and Cleaner
(2) turn heater to hot to let the coolant flow through the heater core
(3) run the engine to operating temp.
(3a) since I can't drive the truck around (not yet registered), I may run a few cool-off/up to temp cycles.
(4) let the it sit overnight (or longer?) to allow the cleaner to do it's work.
(5) drain coolant (from radiator and block)
(6) remove the thermostat
(7) do several circulation flushes with distilled water until water comes out clear.

Would it be beneficial to run steps (1) through (5), but without letting it sit overnight to improve cleaning efficiency or should I go straight to steps (6) and (7)?

Is there a better way to get all the crud out?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by hesfalling

Would it be beneficial to run steps (1) through (5), but without letting it sit overnight to improve cleaning efficiency or should I go straight to steps (6) and (7)?

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Meant to say if it would be beneficial to do *ADDITIONAL* runs of steps (1) through (5). Sorry for the confusion.

Some people have used dawn dishwashing liquid with distilled water - run it through the heat up with the heater on high, then drain and flush it. If you are going through all the rebuild process, change out the freeze plugs also; use a dent puller to remove and not the knock them into the block like an old chevy v8 - My friend did that to Geronimo's engine and it took hours to retrieve the one he knocked in.

Knocking it into the engine-unreal. Probably funny now but not at the time.
Happy New Year to you all.

Thanks again for your help and happy New Year!

My next steps would be to do coolant flush and pull the block apart to see what's going on.

Still not funny - the manual tells you not to knock them in. There are fins cast between the bores in the cooling passages that make retrieval all but impossible. At least I stopped him after the first one.

I'm not sure if I catch this correctly. Flush before rebuild? Why? Once you take things apart you will have full access to the ports and channels to run a pressure hose through and remove the buildup. (don't forget radiator backflush also) Stick the hose in the heater core hoses as well and flush the particles out.

On head bolts, many like to buy custom replacements bolts which is not a bad thing at all. But, you want to be sure you have no clearance issue with new bolts. Some have had this issue only after they installed them and found out.

Now in my case only, you can take this in or buy new. I kept my old head bolts and they have been through 30 year of rebuilds and all. I am just not to sure about this stretch myth I hear about head bolt stretching when under 100 ft. pounds of torque unless they are garbage, but this my opinion remember. I am just very careful to reinstall the bolts back into the same holes they came out of. I have not had one head gasket blow out or leak through on my truck because of a gasket issue. You want to re-torque the head bolts in 250-500 miles as well. VERY IMPORTANT!

the g54b are torque to yield head bolts, the g63b are not. new head bolts are as low as 14.25 on ebay - is it worth saving 14.25 to risk a blown head gasket?