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This isn't a question but more of a rant.
Saturday night drriving and herd a few pops. All of a sudden clutch pedal went limp. Rev matched gears to get home helping what clutch release I had left. Ordered a new clutch cable from autozone and shipped priority next day. Cable comes in Tuesday. Pulled old cable and found it broken toward the top below the adjustment. Put everything back together on Wednesday(today) and same problem with little no clutch release.
Pulling trans tomorrow.
adjusted the cable properly? Firewall flexing? if you have air tools use them, The first time I removed the Trans crossmember my arm went limp, 12 friggin bolts, and they aren't short. and that bolt on the drivers side top of the bellhousing, good luck. I went to pulling the engine and trans as a package and splitting it on the floor, a lot easier.
Attachment 18148
Got air tools but I'll be using my electric impact gun. Compressor is too far away. Firewall does flex a little but with cable adjustment at max I can pull the cable and wiggle it. Start truck up and won't go in any gear so something clutch related. Throw is very long until the pivot arm contacts the pressure plate without the cable attached.
collapsed pressure plate or stuck throwout bearing
I'd lean towards a pressure plate fault (rivets torn out, sheared mounting bolts or bent/damaged pressure plate fingers) I would think if the throw out bearing was jammed there would either be no travel in the pedal or the clutch would be constantly slipping...
(meh could be wrong, been wrong before:slap:)
Trans only held in by the top 2 bolts and cross member. Forgot a friend borrowed my trans tunnel extension. Everything else off.
Anyone have any luck with swapping out the bolts on the shifter base to studs? Used thread lock on the bolts and they still come loose over time. Wanna swap to studs and thread lock and split washer the top already.
thought about it, but haven't done it yet. But then, I have a stedebani shifter with a spacer on Geronimo, so the bolts are longer. Had them work loose on me in traffic on an interstate, and had to tighten them back in using my leatherman - it was the only tools I had with me at the time.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y66...FB1A9DD548.jpg
Fingers do look a little flat.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y66...DB76F9C708.jpg
Appears I still have clutch life left but the amount of oil in the bell housing idk if I'd trust reusing it.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y66...D496A0FE38.jpg
Tob at full rest position all the way in the back. Oilly but seems fine.
Maybe clutch kit only for replacement.
Forgot about a build thread I made on here back in 2011. Lol. Compared pics and everything actually looks normal. Aside from the oil. Now I'm kinda stumped.
The pressure plate fingers look more protruded in the last pic in comparison to the pic you took when you inspected it. I would be taking it off and looking at the inside of it. The pressure plate/TOB or clutch arm are the only components that affect clutch engagement at the transmission end.
I have had the through shaft brake arms and bend them. So be sure to take a close look at it.
Gonna be another expensive clutch job. Clutches only sold as kits at parts stores. Dsm kit comes in tomorrow. Starion kit gotta special order again. Lol
check the roll pins that keep the throw out bearing release fork "located" on the shaft.
Both clutch kits came in on Friday and actually had time today to work on it. Found out I have the wrong clutch kit for the starion. Special ordered for an 88 starion turbo but the disc size measured 9-7/16 inches and my old starion disc measured at 8-7/8 inches. New disc does not fit the flywheel. Ordered a new disc from rockauto and used the discount code. Almost $2 difference. Lol. Starion disc measured at 8-7/8 inches is for pre 5/87 build date. Another week waiting on parts.
2 bucks will get you a half tube of lube. LOL..
Disc no fit the flywheel and hub for the disc no fit the pressure plate. Lube not gonna work, maybe grinding lol.
the flywheel can be drilled to use the bigger clutch - a machine shop can do it for you if you don't feel confident, but the flywheel should be resurfaced to ensure smooth engagement. the bigger clutch holds more power, so it should be considered.
Flywheel is a stepped flywheel. Sorry. Got the 1987 starion clutch replacement in today and put it in. fingers look as flat as the old setup.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y66...A5C2AC3C_1.jpg
Never seen a stepped flywheel for a 2.6, but I don't doubt they exist. At least you have the right parts not.
Stepped flywheel is from the 6 bolt dsm engine. The 87 starion clutch disc measuring at 8-7/8 inches fits nicely inside the dsm flywheel. The oem turbo eclipse pressure plate has a pretty good clamping force so went with this clutch system when I first went turbo. Dsm pressure plate and flywheel with starion disc to match the input shaft. I'll have some time tomorrow and bring my roll pin punches home from work.
New clutch disc and pressure plate and still appears I'm at step one: diagnosing. Maybe I should order a new cable clutch arm just in case.
forgot you have a 4g63t motor - those motors have the stepped flywheel - it all makes sense now...
Ordered this yesterday. Did not get around to look at it yet but it will garrantee new clutch components. It is pretty much what's left other then clutch pedal itself. If this part doesn't fix my clutch issue I will shim the cable at the bracket on the trans. Truck has to make the boat next month.
http://m.ebay.com/itm/381856291305?_mwBanner=1
Pulled the release lever off. One of the holes appears slightly larger then the other but not by much. Doesn't really appear to be bent. I'll just replace it when the new parts comes in.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y66...8320925152.jpg
I hope those are black gloves!!! lol :)