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I received my gasket and the instructions are not exactly what they showed on YT which made it seem that the seal was made by the rubber.
The instructions they send says to use 3M glazing compound (96-8509-96) on the area just outside the pinch weld. and then they say to use 3M auto clear sealer (96-8551-96) between the rubber and the glass on the outside after it is in.
I guess they have it a o'reilly's. I'll update later.
O'reilly's didn't have it on the shelf. they will order it. Advanced Auto Parts (formerly Carquest) had it in stock. They said it is a regular stock item. Here is a pic $19 for the Bedding& glazing compound and $22 for the auto clear sealer. The suction cup is to hold the rear glass as I set it. I found it when I ordered the gasket. It was on Sears site $12.95 shipped. I might just take the bench out to make it easier. I have all the stuff, now I need the weather :) Starting tonight rain for the next 2-3 days at least. I'd like anyone who has done this to let me know of any surprises you might have had. Thanks.
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You can call a windshield installer they carried my 86 windshield seal.
My windshield their seal and install was $100, once the guy seen my truck he called a co worker and he came and helped him.
I pulled and re installed the rear window by using small piece of coated automotive wire. After you have the glass in the seal wrap the wire or good string around where the sheet metal/frame goes and tape the ends together on the side you chose to push in on the cab first. The idea is to pull the string and as the rubber lays back to work the window in. You'll need help obviously as the wire will be pulled from inside the cab while the person outside pushing stays with you and not breaking your glass. You do get redoos but not if you break it.
The installer didn't use any sealer nor did I.
The installer I called told me $175 my seal my glass!
That's crazy screw that guy. A new windshield seal is $45 here.
http://www.carparts.com/results/?N=0&Nr=AND
Keep calling other installers or get a hold of Mike Warme he mighty have a new one.
Mikewarme@yahoo.com
Good luck!
Rick I appreciate the advice but I already have a new one from Steele Rubber. $93 I watched their video on YT "How to replace back window glass seal with a cord" That is why I am going to try it.
I called Steele Rubber this morning and explained my confusion about the instructions differing from the video. According to Mike the video and you are correct and I do not need to use the bedding compound or sealer. Apparently these are stock instructions the dealer "PCP Wholesale, Solon OH" put in the package. He assured me the seal would "rope in" and seal fine on the Ram 50. One thing the instructions do say to do and I don't recall from the video is to use soapy water in the groove the glass sits in so that it can move and seat as you install it.
I won't be doing it this weekend as it is raining. On to the other money pit truck EGR code :)
I'm in contact with Mike he's selling door scrapes $65 shipped and he says they don't shrink or curl in the sun. It is difficult to make contact if you don't text, I don't, but he does check his email every few days.
Thanks for that link.
Have used the rope trick many times, works fine. Just have to be careful with the rope hanging/catching on the windshield gasket and tearing it, happened to me once.
No I have never done it Dropped but the vid makes it pretty simple. I figure the hardest part will be removing the Bench seat. :)
no need to remove seat, just tip the back forward.
yeah I've always left it in.
Mine is actually very easy to remove I guess that wasn't clear. I'm short and about the same distance side to side :) so it will be easier with it out for me. I'll probably get to it early next week and let you know if that suction cup deal works as I planned.
The rear window
So I got the old one out didn't have to remove the seat :). No rust cleaned up around the area, sanded it and painted it with Rustoleum Automobile Primer. The window had some black gook on it because the last installer used it inside the groove in the rubber gasket. ???
I cleaned it and started putting on the rubber. It is 1:15pm I started at 11:30ish. I sprayed it with loads of soapy water as recommended. Worst advice ever! I wiped it off and started again after trying for 30 mins or so. Still no joy then I thought to use the suction cups to hold it. Not much help either.
I got so close so many time I am quite frustrated and a bit angry at Steele Rubber who left this part out of their video telling us to do it as if it were nothing at all.
The problem seems to be that it is formed into the shape they ship it and probably store it in (curled onto itself in a circle about 14 inches in diameter). That shape will let it lay down on the long sides as long as you are pulling on it but on the short sides it pops up in the middle no matter how tightly you hold everything as you go round and down the long side.
I finally gave up a few minutes ago.
I have it sitting in the sun on the hood to see if it will relax.
Updates to come.
That was the trick. Specifically I laid it out on the hood uncoiled in the sun.
I took lunch then went out at about 2:10 and it went right on. I put the 1/4" rope around the pinch weld flap. I put the sucker cups on it and laid it in the bed, got inside picked it up and after a couple false starts it went right in. It was installed by 2:30.
Um I guess if you try it my way with suckers you should know to set it in place where it goes, not where the pinch weld flap is trying to hang over the pinch weld on the bottom which is what I tried the first time. The rope pulls the flap up and over. It went easier than the guys doing the truck in the Streele Rubber vid made it look. I only had to stop to switch hands with the rope and suction cup. Some of the primer marked up the rubber but it wiped right off.
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Excellent! Looks terrific. Kudos for persevering (or however it's spelled).
It's good to be reminded that sometimes we need to walk away from a project, for a while, then return under better conditions.
Thank You