Replacing crankshaft seal

Hey guys im back working on my truck again and i need some info on the torque specs for the crankshaft and any tips or tricks you guys have used to make the process easier.thanks in advance 😀

Not really a torque spec for that. Just get it tight and you be ok. Mark the shaft for return install so the balance stays true to factory. Also, you might as well do both front and back seals as well. It is common for the seals to go out because of a bad center support bearing. You should replace that or it will knock out seal again sooner then you think.
They tend to sag in the carrier because they just get old. They are pretty cheap and I think around 30-40 bucks delivered.

Well i got everything taken off and found no visible leaks and the seal looked fairly new, so i got to looking around and i found it was leaking from 3 oil pan bolts. It turns out that the holes in the block are actually stripped which is a pain because i dont have a tap and die or the money for a helicoil. So it looks like im going to go the silicon route and see if that will hold up. The bolts will tighten to about 6-7 lbs so do you think having them that tight with dome silicon would work? Hell if i have to ill just jb weld them in there for now until i can get the funds for a tap/die/helicoil.

My vote goes to the silicone solution. As long as the mating surfaces are free of oil, the bond should be sufficient. If you're really concerned, you might see if 3 next-size-up bolts will snug things better, but in my experience, once the silicone sets, it should be a decent seal.

Is it leaking from the front of the oil pan? This is the bottom of the oil pump housing which is die cast alloy. Be careful going about drilling and tapping here - if my memory serves me right one of the pan bolts comes lethally close to the bottom timing belt sprocket. Going in there with a drill will be tricky. There's not a lot of metal to drill through and the belt is right above the centre pan bolt.