Billet Works' 1987 Dodge Ram 50 2.0 Auto, Shop Truck Build

So I did an intro a while back but finally have enough going on with the truck to start compiling a thread. I picked up this Ram 50 back in December for $900 bucks "road ready". After bringing it home, it became obvious it had the worst lowering job ever done to it...so I put on new coils and 1.5" drop blocks...that way I could clear the Titan wheels/tires. I went ahead and replaced all the tie rod ends, shocks, and ball joints right away. Then I dropped the truck off at an x-buddies paint shop in January...where it was held hostage for 4 months, and ended up having the center dash piece broken when some tool stole the stereo...hoping to find that piece somewhere so I can replace the stereo. At least the body work and liner paint job turned out descent enough for my needs.

Since having it back, I went ahead and replaced the plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and tossed in a Blaster ignition coil and a new battery. I also picked up an EGR gasket and threw it in CAD so I could CNC an aluminum block off plate (see pic)...I also did a fuel pump block off at the same time as I've got a new Weber and electric fuel pump here ready to go in with a unique cold air setup.

Fast forward to this week...I was driving down the road at 50 mph when all got quiet. Knocked out my work this week and pulled her in the shop tonight to find teeth missing from the timing belt at the crank. Guessing I'm gonna need to pull the head and go have it checked and maybe freshened up while it's apart. The motor is likely original and the truck has 130k on it...not sure if I should go ahead and pull the motor to do rings and bearings at the same time...as I need my shop truck reliable. Researching now to see if there's any other options I should consider while I am this far into swapping stuff, without adding a ton of down time to the mix.

Other parts here ready to go on include a new brake master cylinder (current one is quite leaky), flex brake lines for both front wheels (current are dry rotted), and a use power steering pump (it's setup for power steering but came with no pump installed).

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Will post more soon...but here's a few pics to get started.

Don

Title may be misleading...should read "Auto, shop truck build"...as it's a 2.0 with an auto trans...I'm not an auto shop :)

Glad to see you found the issue with the belt - the bad news is you may have bent valves when the teeth came off the belt - the 2.0 is an interference engine. I like the custom egr block off plate - others may want those if you can make them easily. Check the weber thread for info on the oil pressure safety switch to use with the electric fuel pump to prevent the pump from running with a loss of oil pressure for any reason. You will also need to fabricate a kickdown linkage for the auto tranny cable - there is a thread for that as well. Keep the build pics coming!

Thanks for the replay Pennyman, I already assumed bent valves are likely and am pulling the head off now to get to the machine shop Monday morning.

I actually made spare EGR and Fuel Pump block off plates...I can easily make them here for about 15 bucks each shipped first class, cut from 1/8" 6061 T6 Alum.

I picked up a oil pressure safety switch and a fuel pump relay to set it up right from the get go. I should be able to handle making the kickdown linkage as well.

Got a lil further on tear down. Went ahead and pulled the AC parts as the compressor has been out and I don't plan on replacing at this point. Still searching for my 10mm 1/2" drive allen key. Hoping the cylinders don't look too bad when I get the head off.
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Here's 2 pics of what I'm doing for my cold air...with my own adapter plate.
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Hoping you pros can chime in on what I discovered after removing the head. Seems to me it's necessary to yank the block and freshen it up now...but would like opinions.
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Wow...I forgot how much fun it is pulling an engine without a hoist. Engine stand is on it's way so I can start tearing into it.
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Let the fun begin...after looking through BradMph's thread http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...ebuild-Replace ...I'm leaning towards staying with a simple carb G63B SOHC build with similar mods (must find a header)...unless I figure out a simple enough DOHC head swap I can swing on the G63B bottom, while staying on the weber.
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Got the block all torn completely down to have the block, crank, and rods examined...I do know 2 of the crank journals had some light grooves, and the wrist pins on pistons 1 and 4 aren't smooth moving at all. Bearings were all begging to be replaced. Now that it's down, I have no intention of stuffing those balance shafts back in.

2nd the exact fit EGR block offs.

Finally working on the rebuild...took several weeks to get my cam back from Schneider. Crank was cleaned up, cylinders bored .020 over, 3 angle valve job and jet valve elim on the head, going back together with ARP head studs.

So, the machine shop "misplaced" 2 of my connecting rod nuts. I'm at a loss of where to find more of them or am wondering if there is an ARP rod bolt kit I should opt for. I'm also contemplating getting a fresh stud kit for the intake and exhaust manifolds. Thoughts/info on both??? I need to get this thing wrapped up and back on the road asap.

Thanks for the help,

Don
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They're not paying for them?

Correct, they claim two were missing when I dropped off parts. I don't have time to argue with them over it, so I need to find some.

Try Dad (Randy) at engine machine services - he is a 2.6 engine guru and should have what you need.

Perfect my friend...will call him tomorrow but a quick glance on his site shows he seems to have everything I need in one place!

Glad I could help.

So, the ex friend who was putting my engine back in after my extensive rebuild with jet valve and balance shaft elim, bore job, 3 angle valve job, Weber 32/36, and Schneider racing cam install…plus wiring it up, and setting my Weber finally told me where my truck was stored after 9 years of hiding it from me. I picked it up tp find the engine mounts aren’t bolted to the frame, half the bolts to the trans are missing, carb was never hooked up, and the wiring is all cut and spliced and messy. Anyway, tore into the top end and all seems good, so got another new timing belt as the new one that started my entire build is now ten years old without running. Going to gut all wiring on the whole truck from
dash connectors out and make all new. Updated with pics coming soon. Going ultra simple with heater only, and belt wise water pump n alternator only. Pulling off all extra stuff and putting in storage for now