The un-named 2nd Gen

k so I have a first gen that I'm loving building. However my big ole' ford was a little much on gas and I started getting anxious to drive the little 2.6... but didn't want to rush the build. Solution? Buy another Ram 50 of course! This one is a 1987 Ram 50 2wd with a pretty solid 2.0 that has recently had a head job, a 32/36 installed with a electric pump. I have a few questions that I haven't approached with my 83 so I thought I'd just start a thread for this truck too, as it may be a daily driver now, once my 83 is on the road I'll be building this one too.
First I'll throw some pictures down.Attachment 12487Attachment 12488Attachment 12489Attachment 12490Attachment 12491Attachment 12492

So far I've removed the underglow (that's right.... underglow) and the mess of wires that come with it. I've removed the seat covers and the silly steering wheel cover. I've installed a new stereo and did a basic tune up (fluids/plugs).

My first question is about the fuel pump. The ground goes to the chassis and the power is coming split off the same wire they have run to the electric choke on the weber... It takes forever to get this thing to start, and once running it'll run great for a while, then every once and a while, bog down like its completely out of fuel. I'm wondering if this has something to do with the E-Pump being mounted up on the front wheel well, or maybe its just too weak of a pump to keep up with this carb?
What do you guys think?

The pump needs to be back by the tank, as it is a pusher and does not do well trying to draw fuel from the tank. Next, connect the wire from the fuel pump to a relay, and run the hot lead from the battery through the relay to the pump - this way you get full +12 volts to the pump. Use 12 gauge or larger (smaller numerically) to prevent voltage drop. For the best and safest way to wire the pump in, see the weber sticky on installing the fuel pump with an oil pressure safety switch.

sheesh looks like a furball of wire. Oh and them lower radiator hoses that are non ribbed and don't have wire in them can collapse on you and shut water off coming out of engine. Keep an eye on that thing, I had one get soft from heat and self squished itself, lol. Remember, the overheating precautions about our trucks. Better to over do then to over heat.

Thanks Brad, you make a good point. I've already been looking into new rubber as I consider that a part of a full tune up. I'll keep that in mind when ordering new parts.

Pennyman... I see what you mean and I completely understand why it's better to relocate that pump, I already planned on doing so, just wasn't sure if that's what might have been causing my problems. I do have one question though... if I simply install a fuse in the line and run a "hot" lead to the battery, wouldn't my fuel pump be pumping constantly, even when my truck is off?

that is why you hook a relay off the wire from the choke to activate the pump. It will only come on when the key is in the run position. However, that will possibly cause a secondary issue - without the oil pressure safety switch, you will have no power to the relay when the key is in the start position. The oil pressure safety switch has the provisions to supply power to the pump in the start position by pulling power off the solenoid wire when the key is in the start position. You could also add a push button with a diode from the battery you hold when cranking, but that is not the best or safest solution.

Ah that make sense. What route did you go with Geronimo?

I have an oil pressure safety switch that controls the power to the relay whether it is running or not. I also grounded the pump to the battery to prevent power loss, and used 12 Gauge wires front to back. Currently running a Holley electric pump with a mallory fuel filter and no reg, despite the pump putting out 7 PSI - the pressure drop due to distance keeps the pressure within range for the Weber.

I've read through that thread you guys had going for the weber 32/36 and I still don't understand how you've wired up your oil pressure safety switch? Did you just run a 2nd wire spliced into the wire going to your oil pressure sensor, run a relay off it then run that back to the pump?

The relay is wired to the common terminal off of the oil pressure safety switch, NC side is wired to the solenoid wire from the starter, and the NO side is wired to the choke wire. The voltage from the oil pressure switch goes to the + side of the relay to close the relay. the relay controls the +12v from the battery to the pump. BradMPH created a sticky that explains it all: http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...ic+pump+wiring

Its a real sickness to own one of these trucks yet u have two. :thumbup: I had a chance at getting a first gen but with no title I had to let it go. Years later the title turned up and the poor truck was already scrap.

Well that's never fun to hear about CRV. Yeah my 1st gen is turning into more than the original "paint and drive" that I originally planned for it so I bought the 2nd gen to drive during the process.

The sick thing is CRV, I also have a 2000 Dodge Dakota, a 2006 Grand Prix, a 2002 Chevy Malibu, a 1971 Opel GT, a 2002 F-150, a 98 Chevy Cavalier and 2 motorcycles.
you want to talk about a sickness? Lol!