G63B 2.0 Weberconv- gas smell

I had a problem with gas smell before I changed the head. The fuel pump was hooked up wrong The return was open and the line was hooked to the vent! IDFK. I fixed it and the smell got less but still hung around especially on hot days. I noticed there was gas pooled in the Intake when I rebuilt the carb after doing the timing and balancer belts a few months ago. It got great mileage after that. When I put the rebuilt head on there was no gas smell for the first few days but today while I was flushing the radiator I noticed the smell and the exhaust is very rich smelling. The fuel gauge has gone down form full to less than 3/4 in under 100 miles. that's as bad as it was before I did the timing belt. I got the head from Ivan in St Louis. I'm new at this but I seem to have some talent with proper instructions. What could it be and how might I go about fixing this? Even a carbed motor should not smell like gas as much as this does.

if you are still running a stock mechanical pump you are overpressurizing the carb and forcing raw gas past the neede and seat, flooding the intake with uncontrolled fuel. A reg will not fix this properly, as the backpressure on a stock fuel pump will kill the pump. Put an electric fuel pump on the truck back by the tank after the filter. 4-7 psi pump works well - some say 2.5-4 is better. The flow rate of the pump is more important than the pressure - webers love volume of fuel to work properly.

That sounds plausible, its got the manual pump on the side of the head. Why not put the elec pump it in the engine bay where the hard lines end? You got any recommendations on brands and how to regulate the flow/pressure? How to wire it up? I looked into it once but it seemed like more than I could handle mainly because not even the main seller of the elec fuel pumps at AZ will give info or admit to knowing info about regulating the flow/pressure and everyone that mentioned doing this (because they had) said I would need to regulate the pump output because it was too high. Somehow they couldn't give me more useful info/ I forget if I failed to ask or they just couldn't produce the info. I think I recall that the pressure should be low. Still I can't imagine the manual pump is giving more than a lb or two of pressure. I wonder if I could put a gauge on the line to find out???

The electric pump is a pusher, it cannot draw fuel from the tank. There are several threads on here describing what pumps to use and how to wire it up properly and safely. The reg you want to use is an adjustable holley model with a bypass fitting that you can hookup to the return line off of the old carb / fuel pump. The issue with the mechanical pump is the pulsing of the pump and the high pressure of its output (9-13 psi). The other issue with regulating the mechanical pump even with a bypass reg is that the reg will restrict the flow to the carb and hurt performance and running under load. I have run an electric pump on Geronimo for 30 years and have not used a reg for over 25 years without problems with a 7 psi pump. Most dealers won't give you info because they don't know our trucks and they don't want to be responsible for problems caused by bad information. People on here have used carter, mallory and holley pumps with equal success. Just be sure it is for a carbureted motor under 8 psi - higher the flow the better.

Thanks. I got a pressure gauge last eve and opened it this morning. The T is too small for my fuel lines so I have to go find a T before I can test the pressure coming from my pump. Note DO NOT try to use your MityVac to get the pressure. The MityVac T was too small and even with pipe clamps it leaked. I think I destroyed mine. Won't know until I take it apart once the gas evaporates. I found one thread by mopar_ja and looked at it, pretty sweet setup. I don't know how to get the bed panels off. I'll check the pressure I'm getting and go from there.

OK Tested it with gauge and the pressure was 0 for a moment when it started then built up to 3lb as I help the accelerator down. Once I let it idle it bounced from 0 to 3lb. So I'm thinking the problem is not pump pressure. This makes me think my carb is the issue. Anyone know where to get a Good Weber carb for cheap? I've tried rebuilding but the kits don't have instructions and the Weber carb site diagrams are illegible.

So I read this http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...ht=weber+carbs and I think I have a very old real Weber DGAV. I think I only changed the needle, gaskets and the float last time I rebuilt it. but that "crazy rich" description in this thread nails the problem exactly. I don't want to spend $289 on a new carb or $195+ shipping to have mine rebuilt properly. http://www.carburetion.c I guessom/Products/eProductDetails.aspkx?part=K614

I just noticed that last post the second link has some erroneous typing in it. Just backspace the "I guess" and connect it all up. So I found this diagram just now http://www.weberperformance.com.au/p...20DGAV%201.pdf off what appears to be an Aussie Weber site http://www.weberperformance.com.au/i....php?info_id=4 If it is correct and I see nothing obvious to say it isn't Can anyone tell me if I am correct in seeing that part 94 and 94A are the jets I need to change out? Also how do I tell what size I have? How do I figure out the right size to use? Its manual 4sp tranny and i use it for hauling junk and errands. It aint pretty but its only got 100 K miles on it. Thanks.

I just noticed in the diagram that it shows a coolant controlled choke. A some point mine had an electric choke put on it.

most US webers came with an electric choke. You adjust the choke by loosening the 3 screws on the clamp around the choke housing and turn it so the choke is fully closed when cold. When you go to start the truck, push the petal to the floor once - this should open the choke plate slightly. Start the truck, then tap the petal lightly after 15 seconds to get the choke to step to the next point on the linkage. If it don't step, or drops to base idle, readjust the choke tension and check the linkage until it steps in the proper sequence. Looking at the drawing, those are the primary and secondary jets, but before you change jets, be sure to follow the float setting procedure and make sure the needle and seat assembly is not damaged and seals good. Also check the accelerator pump and check balls to be sure they are working properly.

Thanks pennyman1 Well I took great care in setting the float and needle and choke then dialing in the idle when I rebuilt it last spring. What does "step to the next point on the linkage" mean? It doesn't have any problem running. Are you thinking an off choke might be causing the excess gas?

Still smelling fuel from carb?

Just a far thought, when I had a fuel odors coming from engine it was my oil that was contaminated. Made engine bay smell of raw fuel pretty bad.

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Originally Posted by BradMph

Still smelling fuel from carb? Just a far thought, when I had a fuel odors coming from engine it was my oil that was contaminated. Made engine bay smell of raw fuel pretty bad.

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Thanks I just pulled the dip stick and there is no gas smell in the oil. The smell is worse after I drive it. I am fairly sure there is a Carb issue. I had puddles of gas in the intake a couple of times when I took it off to rebuild it before I blew the head. After I replaced the head with a 2 valve one it was smell free for almost a week then it started again after I had been driving it and really putting my foot down to see what it would do. I gotta think something aint right in the carb.

You would think with all that vacuum being force into the carb that everything would be sucked inside engine or close radius. Strange when said you test drove and stomped the gas (bad thing to do with new head) there was a lot of gas puddled. The accelerator pump squirts gas down the carb when hitting the peddle hard. Could it be squirting fuel in excess possibly.
I have had fuel puddle in the intake and usually there is some residual after shutting the motor off. That part is normal since your shutting down while fuel is still being drawn into the motor. But an excess makes me think that the carb is not closing off and backup pressure is continuing to drip afterwards. What Pennyman was mentioning I think is that the stock pumps are not good for webers. They will work and all, but they produce more pressure and pulsate on the carb more then a low pressure high flow electric pump. The weber likes fuel flow and not fuel pressure. You said that you installed a fuel pressure gauge and it said 3 psi, but when your honking on it the stock pump is pushing much harder and it's non regulated. No doubt you seem to have a carb issue, sorry to hear. But, the majority of people running webers install electric low pressure pumps and even others add regulators. I use the carter electric pump at the fuel tank area and a Holley regulator under the hood with a mini gauge installed on that. That's just FYI info.
Your plugs look ok? Double check for fuel leaks in the lines. Your trucks 29 years old, maybe time to replace them. Buy like 6ft of fuel line and start at fuel tank area for those and then from firewall area to carb, you'll have some left over. With a real strong odor this can lead to a likely leak somewhere. Beside the point it is kind of dangerous. Fire extinguisher could be helpful until you locate issue.

Thanks Brad. The puddling was something I noticed before I had the rebuilt head. I just went out and futzed around with the choke a bit to make sure it was OK. And I didn't punch it with the gauge on it but I did rev it up pretty good and it stopped at 3 psi even as I increased the revs. I could do it again and go higher to see if your point is true for this pump. I expect it's the carb age and whatever was done to it before I got it that is the problem. It has had this smell (just around the carb when the hood is up) since I got it 20K miles or 10 years ago. The previous owner didn't take very good care of it its only running because its a good motor as you all know. I guess I'll just start saving and hopefully come up with an idea that might explain fix the issue before I spend the money.

So this has been going on for 10 years now? I'm surprised your not use to it and just ignoring it. :) That is a long time my friend. If you don't want to buy a new carb you could send in the one you have to be fixed. Even the old ones like you have are good, AS LONG AS it is an original weber with the weber written in the cast. I'm sure you seen those counterfeit weber carbs with a sticker on them.

:) I guess its a long time. It was parked for a few years then I started using it again. Its getting more use now and I want it to run better.